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Messages - teazer

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Turning Wrenches / Re: Li-Ion / Li-Fe Batteries
« on: October 06, 2020, 11:30:10 PM »
I suspect that the battery manufacturers don't realize that teh RZ not only does not have an electric starter but it also has a self energizing ignition, so you can get away with a much smaller Lithium battery.

If the (RD air cooled) has  DYNA ignition or spends a lot of time crawling in traffic, you may want to go up a size.

In both cases you will need a Lithium compatible regulator.  Old designs for wet cells are not accurate enough and allow over and undercharging, both of which will kill a lithium based battery.

For 12v you need a motorcycle specific battery which IIRC uses A123 cells with different chemistry that say a 4 cell RC battery which runs closer to 14 or 15 volts.

Turning Wrenches / Re: Needle Jet Question
« on: October 05, 2020, 12:27:59 PM »
The real question though is where is it rich i.e. at what throttle openings. 

If you post the needle number you now have, we can see what else might work but it all comes down to where it's rich.  Lower mid range it's easier to change the needle jet, mid to upper midrange the needle has more effect.  Post the needle number and we can put that into simple excel spreadsheet software and compare the annular area with different jets versus different needles. 

Turning Wrenches / Re: Needle Jet Question
« on: October 05, 2020, 01:12:54 AM »
Not exactly.

At idle and just above idle the thick parallel part of the needle sits in the needle jet , so moving the needle up or down makes no difference at small openings, but increasing or decreasing the needle jet size will make a difference.

Except that at low throttle openings, almost zero fuel is being pulled up through the needle jet, so the actual effect will be three fifths or five eighths of sweet F all. 

Once you get up into the midrange, raising the needle or increasing the needle jet size will achieve a similar result. Not exactly the same on a dual taper needle but pretty close.

The short version: go ahead and try P-2s.  On your bike we have no way to determine how much it's too rich, so we would be guessing, but that really is the simplest option unless you look at needle profiles to see one that is thicker where you need it to be.

General Chatter / Re: Coffee
« on: September 29, 2020, 02:23:03 PM »
It all depends.  We use a French Press when visitors are around (remember those days).

We also have a really cheap expresso machine that makes great froth to put on top. My son went nuts and bought a professional grade expresso machine for his office, but I'm not sure the coffee is any better than from a cheap one like ours.

Most days we just use a stove top Stainless Steel Bialetti.  We still have a couple of old Bialetti Moka pots but I'm sure the aluminum gets into the coffee, so we use the stainless one most days.  Heat some milk in a mug, pour in the coffee.  Instant flat white.

And every so often we make Lebanese coffee in a small pot with coffee from Lebanon with cardamom in it. Coffee and sugar in the pot.  Bring it to a rolling boil and pour into small demi tasse cups.

Coffee comes in many flavors and varieties. Experiment.

General Chatter / Re: RK Tek head
« on: September 28, 2020, 11:42:40 PM »
I didn't mean to be obtuse.

TZ250 is 54mm bore.  Same casting as the 64mm bore TZ350 but different diameter and volume.  I had surplus 250 heads and no 350 heads, so I had them machine a 250 head to fit on a 350.

I do have a set of 3G3 6 port barrels and a head converted by Motrac years ago to take inserts, but that's a whole other story.

If I was going to keep and race that TZ350E, I would have had my local machine shop machine the OEM head to accept appropriate Banshee domes, but it was for sale, so I wanted it as stock/original as possible.

Turning Wrenches / Re: Air mixture adjustments--what do they do?
« on: September 22, 2020, 05:30:50 PM »
t....Its to offer a slight adjustment of fuel/air mixture to compensate for such things as gradual seal wear.

Nope.  The pilot or slow speed air screw is adjustable to get idle and just off idle jetting spot on.  The pilot jet is so small that even a small change in air density is enough to require adjustment on the air/mixture screw.

Main jets air jets and needle jets are all replaceable but rarely need to be changed on a stock bike unless there is a significant change in air density say from sea level to 6,000 ft.

Just to completely screw with your mind, the air: fuel ratio changes as revs rise even at constant full throttle.  That's known as the fuel slope and can be changed by changing the air jet size or the height of the spray bar (outlet on a primary type needle jet).

Once you have the jetting right for your altitude and state of tune, the air screw would only need to be tweaked maybe in winter or heat of summer and even then, few of us would bother.  If a motor is badly enough worn that jetting needs to be changed, manufacturers would rather that you rebuild the motor, not mess with adjustable air bleeds that most of us would screw up.

General Chatter / Re: RK Tek head
« on: September 19, 2020, 01:40:19 PM »
Not an RD head, but I had them machine a TZ250 head out to fit on a TZ350 and they raised the compression, changed the combustion chamber shape and added their ripples.  Worked fine.

I can't really comment on before-after performance because I sold that bike after it was rebuilt and it now sits in someone else's collection with all the new seals going hard.... :umm:

Haus of Projects / Re: B OG RD400C
« on: September 19, 2020, 01:34:25 PM »
I would pull the carbs and clean them thoroughly paying attention to the pilot circuits.

Sounds like zero fuel going through.

And after the carbs are guaranteed cleaner than a clean thing, pull both plugs and rest them on the motor and kick and see if the spark disappears after the first few revolutions.  You may need to recruit a soon to be ex-friend to turn the rear wheel over with it in gear or borrow a race starter or push it down the street while hanging over the seat looking at the plugs (Not recommended obviously).

It is possible that it stops sparking as the engine fires or revs rise, which could be something breaking down in the zeel or ignition, but that's unusual unless you have a relay in there that is unlatching as the revs (and volts) rise.

But as with all electrical problems, start with the carbs.

General Chatter / Re: Small battery options?
« on: September 09, 2020, 10:27:01 PM »
Good choice.  I use a smaller 1,300 4S on our drag bike to run tacho and shift light.  The rest is a self energizing ignition and a bicycle rear lamp and that's it, but as you mentioned, it cannot be charged by the stock charging system.  Bench chargers are cheap and can also be used to balance the cells and charge regular lead batteries too.

BTW, if it goes completely flat, there's a good chance 2 or more of the cells will not come back from the dead, and you can guess how I discovered that.

I prefer the soft case options but they need enough volume because they expand more than one might expect.

And never hit the battery or throw it across the room.

Turning Wrenches / Re: Right cylinder running lean
« on: September 03, 2020, 12:10:19 AM »
Everything has been cleaned and wire thru passages I can get to.all new mikuni jets. I didnt set fuel height just the float height but I have swapped floats between the carbs with no difference. Is it ever common to run larger jets in one carb? I didnt replace the main nozzle that the main jet threads into but they look to be ok.

Yes but never more than one size different side to side.

eBay/Craigslist watch / Re: Cheap Cylinders from China
« on: September 02, 2020, 11:54:33 PM »
The mismatch between liners and casting is a bit rough, but the die casting is streets ahead of anything that came out of the Yamaha factory back in the day.

Just port them and go.

Turning Wrenches / Re: TZ style dry clutch cover for RD
« on: September 02, 2020, 11:49:44 PM »
That dry clutch looks really sexy.  Every so often I think about modifying a spare TZ primary cover to take a kickstarter and then I remember that I would need a longer clutch shaft plus a set of straight cut gears and a complete TZ clutch and the only ones I have are for the TZ.  It seemed like such a neat idea until I started to think about the cost.

So I will fit a Banshee lockup clutch with straight cut primary gears and a Banshee side cover instead.  Of course that also needed a modified Banshee kick starter shaft, but that was cheap enough.

Turning Wrenches / Re: Right cylinder running lean
« on: August 31, 2020, 11:49:10 PM »
And are the jest all new genuine Mikuni ?  Try blasting wd40 through the jets and compare left to right and then repeat on all the drillings/passageways.  Could be as simple as a blocked pilot bypass hole.

And did you set the fuel levels?

Turning Wrenches / Re: anybody ever tried this?
« on: August 31, 2020, 11:45:38 PM »
kicking back is usually a sign of too much advance or really lean mixture, but usually advance. 

Try checking it with a degree wheel and spark plug tester or plug wire 10mm from the motor and see if it's firing when you think it should be.

Did you go back to the softer/thinner reed petals or is this with the same carbon fiber reeds?

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