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Some of us are big fans of ported motors.  No need to go mad though.  A light clean up and port matching won't hurt and a "stage 1" port job should wake it up a bit. 

Yes, but no....

That's the bottom of the stanchion but where's the damper rod and the tapered bottom part?  Take out the damper rod and if it has the bottom part still fitted, slip it off and slide the damper rod back all the way through the fork leg and then refit the bottom hydraulic stop ( the 1" tall aluminum part.

Dowty washers from Chinabay FTW.  Cheap and they work, plus a generous supply of grease on the studs.  Unless you ride a lot in the rain and/or leave the bike out all the time, that should work for 20 years.

correct. water finds its way past the top sleeve nuts and the stud and barrels become chemically bonded.  Original design was plain washer and lock washer.  Later the plain washer was replaced with a dowty washer (rubber seals on a steel core) but they went hard and cracked and water gets in. 

Always replace those when rebuilding the top end and grease the studs.

Thanks,

I have built a few different GT750s and ported a few sets of barrels.  The last one I sold was the Dunstall which took a crap load of work to get right.  I loved how it looked but being so tall and heavy, it always felt like I was going to drop it as I rolled it off the center stand.

I have two GT750 projects on the go.  One is a Cafe Racer with TL1000 suspension and wheels and the other is the full on drag bike that I just got back from the guy that modified the frame for me.  So I just spent a couple off days modifying the ignition test jig so I could work out what was wrong with the way I programmed the Ignitech ignition.  It took longer than it should have to work out what was wrong but it's all good to go now.

A  few years ago when Sundial was really active SuzukiDave had one I think and so did Alan Tucker in the Bahamas.

I went cheap and bought a suitable tap to cut a thread into the top section of the sleeve nut tunnels and used matching bolts to jack the barrel up slowly and evenly.   

A plate would be a better idea though.

You still have that Blue/white GT and did you ever get the 34mm carbs jetted correctly?

Those new pipes are an improvement, but the welding and fab work are first class.

And yes, the #3G3 barrels are 6 port ie 6 transfers on the last 350. So are the last OW31 TZ750 barrels but they have rather small (RZ sized reed cages and need more reed area. Fondseca in the UK had some cast if you need a set (assuming they still have some available).   

That idea is decades old, and still works.  Best to alternate sides though, so the spring stays straight.

When fitting a new spring, put one end in the vice, and bend the spring over and slip a washer or coin in, then bend it the opposite direction and add another coin/washer. Rinse and repeat until it's extended enough to fit.

Another technique is to remove the pivot bolts and let the stand move to release tension.  Assembly is a little harder but with a center stand you can usually get one side bolt it and pull the stand into place to slip the other side bolt in.

Agreed.  Fab quality is good and MOTA is a great tool, but it forecasts crank HP.  Not sure why the pipes have  increased angles on the baffle cones - that's not right. 

Very innovative bike that they/he finished a couple of years ago but I have not seen any articles or reviews of how well it runs - assuming it runs.

I just spent rather more than that budget on a few upgrades that make my shop look really nice and to be honest, it makes very little difference to the ability to do the job.

Over the decades I have built and restored too many bikes to list and at few points in time did I have a decent workshop space.  I have built motors on the kitchen floor, or in the main hallway or outside or in a small cramped garage  I even completed a restoration in a 5th floor apartment.  Sure a nice shop makes a difference, but it's not absolutely necessary.  Compressor is nice to have but I managed without one for a very long time.

What is important are good hand tools but you never need snapon type prices.  Crafstman were great quality at reasonable prices and many HF tools are adequate. 
Build a wooden workbench.  Buy 2x4 wood from your local hardware store and uses 2x6 on the top with a 1/4" masonite skin on top.  Or get a length of kitchen cabinet top when a neighbor is upgrading their kitchen.  You can but that cheaply at Menards - often priced to clear.  But wood works just as well.  If you need drawers, consider a cheap wooden kitchen cabinet and build it into your workbench.

Lifts are nice but eat all the budget so leave those for now.   Get decent LED shop lamps cheaply at menards or online so you have enough light to work.  Add them for the rest of the shop as you go.  For now you just need light where you work. A rolling tool chest is super cool and I picked up a Husky from Home Depot recently for around 250 bucks.It's not the biggest or toughest, but it's enough for what I need.

Add tools as you go along and not before you absolutely need them. Welding - find a local welder.  Lathe and Mill, same thing.  Find someone close that will machine parts at a reasonable price. If you need them more and more often, it might be time to add them, but for me it's not worth the cost or the space.  A mini mill would be nice, for sure, but not a lot of use if I want to machine a cylinder head or add reed valves to a piston port motor.  Better to pay someone with the right equipment and skills.  I can use a mill and lathe but it's not cost effective for me and I just don't have the space or need.

So start with the basics - good (enough) hand tools.  Add files and drill and angle grinder as you need them.




 

To get the rear wheel out, use any rear paddock stand.  Easy peasy

For teh front wheel, you need a stand that uses a peg into the bottom of the steering stem.  Pitbull are probably stiffest and most secure but there are others out there.  I have a really old Lockhart Pillips stand that is a bear to lift, but makes work easy.

And that would generally be a good thing as long as the pipe can use the extra volume. Let the waves do the work...

Standard mode of failure on a 2 stroke.  Forget the piston wash interpretation for a moment because it ran home after the meltdown so we can't really tell too much.  Typically, a lot of carbon on the head or piston indicates a lean mixture and a clean surface with more washed than carbon tends to indicate rich, but we can't say too much because we have no idea if that carbon was built up when it was run hard or tootling along.

What we can tell for sure is that the piston expanded to the point that it had minimal to negative clearance and that's why it had a 4 corners seizure.  There's no obvious signs of detonation or oil film breakdown except on those 4 corners.

The causes are usually too little clearance or more likely, it's lean on the needle jet.  Most of us know how to check main jet color on a plug and for slow speed running but if it's lean on the needle, all we do is open the throttle a little more.  And that kills a two stroke cruising down the highway at steady throttle/rpm/speed.  Motor gets hotter and hotter and it either starts to detonate or it nips up like that one.

We had a TD3 that did that too many times at Daytona at full tilt and it turned out to be a minor air leak in an inlet manifold.

Do a leakdown test and see if there's a slight leak anywhere.  Follow that with checking piston to bore clearance or go slightly loose next time and if all that looks good raise the needle one step.

I went with cable activation using a Suzuki GT750 cable on this TD3 with some RD parts.

They do look like early Toomey stamped pipes.

I have seen Pipelyne pipes that were fully welded and not stamped, but the muffler on those pipes does look like an FPP sleeve over the original steel can and not like a Toomey can.

Can anyone confirm for sure that Pipelyne stamped pipes?  Did they use Toomey dies by any chance?