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It's chappy red for sure.  Which year/model are you looking to paint or copy?

It's a beautiful bike and reminds me of a V twin TZ but I don't suppose any parts would cross over even if they were available.

That looks like the skirt has impacted the bottom of the intake port.  Check the barrels to see if there's any damage there and check that there is a generous chamfer on the intake floor.  And wrt the prior post, check for clearance piston to bore.  If it's excessive it may allow the piston to rock too much

What it comes down to is whether there are signs of detonation.  If not, pump gas is sufficient.  I ran the phat trakka at 165-170psi on 91/93 octane with no problems.  In a TZ or TD race motor that gets heat soaked at full power, 100 octane was more than enough to keep it safe.

You can mix two lots of gas with different octane ratings to get something between but it's not a straight average.  Octane rating is simply a measure of resistance to detonation. Higher octane does not equate to more power until the motor is at the limit of detonation.  On a street motor that's rare unless timing or jetting are way off. And if they are, fix it...

Holy cow, that's bat shit crazy.  Would love to see it run though 

That mixture ring looks a little wide - assuming it was a real chop. Harder (cooler) plugs will by design, run cooler and that causes them to look rich. So you could jet with 8's in and the switch to 9s to create a margin of safety.

FYI on TD/TR and TZ's we were usually in the 280 (hot low density) to 320 (colder more dense air).

I found the most critical on a street bike is mid range ridden "softly" to not draw attention,  where most of the running typically is at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle cruising and that's needle and needle jet territory.

IIRC, RD250/350/400 A/c or W/c all had fairly small reeds and cages. The LC250 has decent transfer ports and can make almost as much power as a 350, so you might want to check out YZ85 cages.  They flow more that TZ750 or RZ350. If your motor doesn't need the reed area, don't worry, the reeds only open as far as they need to so you won't lose much low end if any.

very nice.  great choice of exhausts.

What tires did you go with and how do they feel so far?  I think it may be time for me to replace the set of Comp K Metzlers that I fitted just after I bought the bike in 93 or thereabouts.

Nice bike.  How did you adapt the clutch cover to take the water pump?

Those look like Swabrick pipes.  If so be sure to reinforce the stinger to avoid the mufflers falling off. We lost a few that way.

Devcon F is ideal for repairing crankcases on TZ or RD motors when a rod punches a hole in the bottom end to let all the big end rollers out. 

And no sign of it going soft or leaking years later. It's a great product but not for exhaust ports. I went through my stock but didn't find a stock L or MAB set of barrels.

I would try JB Weld 37901  High Temp which is also rated to 1000F and is cheap. They claim it is good for exhaust manifold repairs.

B7?   

ok to warm it up but maybe 10s for when you ring its neck.

Just grind it out and have someone TIG a new lump there to drill and tap for a shiny new screw.  Suzuki use those plates to direct oil to the gearbox shafts.  Without them they get no lube and we all know that lube is a necessary part of life in a transmission

There's a guy in the UK with a 380 which he fitted a set of RG250 gamma cylinders and gained their crankcase reeds and extra ports.  he says his revs to 12,000 and make 55 or so rear wheel HP.

He has a connection to Barry Hart of Barton motors who made the Sparton 3 cylinder water cooled 500 which was in limited production back in the day.

The Motoworks bike originally had chambers with what appear to be 3 convergent cones but the one for sale now has a single cone and what look to be very large diameter stingers.

There is some incredible work in that Motoworks bike for sure.

I am pretty sure that the batteries I use are LiPo.  I use RC/drone batteries from Turnigy.  Admittedly I don't run in MotoAmerica but I will have to look at their LiFePo4 batteries as replacements.  With a 4s (4 cells) their LIPO is 13.2v and the LiPo is 14.8 volts which I like for the fatter spark energy.

They do get very inflated over time though, so when this square brick becomes fat and blaoted I will change to LiFePo4 and get a new charger to keep it all in one piece.

Try a set from Mikes XS.com.  Great price.  And yes to the smaller PVC tube for spacers to set pre-load.