HPI Install RD

[Czakky]

I buy all my Metric hardware here...

https://www.belmetric.com/
C

Good recommendation. Belmetric is awesome!

[Czakky]

Stupid question. How do you know which side of the coil you're timing?

[CASADEHUSKER]

My understanding is that both sides fire..........so doesn't matter.  But probably best to wait for a response from an expert,

[Czakky]

I just checked with a swift couple kicks and a timing gun. Yup either side

[m in sc]

single coil dual lead = wasted spark, always. 

[Czakky]

Sorry that I didn't write down the rotor bolt length. I buy all my hardware from Belmetric.com.
I used 7mm x 1 hardened bolt with 7mm hardened fender washer first then a 8mm hardened thick washer and a hardened 7mm lock washer.   

How important is the hardened part of that bolt? I realized I have an 8.8/standard bolt.
BTW bolt length is 35mm, fwiw.

[lawnboy]

There's not a lot of HPI install info I could find.
So this is what I went through for Mike's RD350.
He brought me his bike together but no wiring on the bike as the stock harness was taken off.
Mike did have everything mounted with the cdi and regulator.
I added lots of engine and frame grounds, then built a bare bones harness for just lights, brake lights, high and low headlight, charging system and tach power.

The hard part was where to set initial static timing as the HPI website showed setting it using a scale whether using clockwise or counter clockwise rotor rotation.

any chance you could draw up the "bare bones" wiring diagram? i've been tryin to get nick's ignition to work with the oregon motorcycle parts r/r without any luck.  just got the hpi from treats. so i figure on wiring from scratch. also is it possible to run the hpi without a battery?

d3rf

[SUPERTUNE]

Shouldn't be a problem running batteryless.
m in sc runs his HPI with AC bulbs and no battery.
Maybe he has a diagram?
Chuck

[Czakky]

On my R5 I'm running no battery. Plain old LED bulbs work.

[m in sc]

running led bulbs on mine, just using a trailtech voltage regulator. I floated ground on the unit, so 2 ac leads out. both legs to each leg of the voltage regulator, no rectifier. one of those legs goe sup front powers the headlight and brake and speedometer. othe rleg goes back and powers the tail light. I run nothing else on the bike, been fine for well over a year.

will say, one of the led headlights burned out immediately (had the internal fan), but the last one has been fine (no fan). must just be manufacturing differences. 

[lawnboy]

running led bulbs on mine, just using a trailtech voltage regulator. I floated ground on the unit, so 2 ac leads out. both legs to each leg of the voltage regulator, no rectifier. one of those legs goe sup front powers the headlight and brake and speedometer. othe rleg goes back and powers the tail light. I run nothing else on the bike, been fine for well over a year.

will say, one of the led headlights burned out immediately (had the internal fan), but the last one has been fine (no fan). must just be manufacturing differences.

Thanks for that. Looks like I got the wrong regulator maybe. Mine only has a brown and a yellow. Got it on the bench now. Seems pretty straight forward. Orange from cdi to coil pack. plug to plug from stator. Black/white to kill switch. Yellow is for lights. Correct? Also the soldered joints on the back of the stator are epoxied over. Whats a good somewhat stylish kill switch? Did a quick look and nothing caught my eye. What would be the best regulator?

[m in sc]

that's the one i have.

however,  one goes to the yellow, other goes to the other leg of the ac coming out after you float the ground on the back of the cdi unit.

the wire that is on the back of the unit that is held down with an eyelet? you need to unground that and run that wire up to the other leg of the regulator.  this gives 2 ac leads out of the unit.

[lawnboy]

that's the one i have.

however,  one goes to the yellow, other goes to the other leg of the ac coming out after you float the ground on the back of the cdi unit.

the wire that is on the back of the unit that is held down with an eyelet? you need to unground that and run that wire up to the other leg of the regulator.  this gives 2 ac leads out of the unit.

so the unit i have has the black wire with an eyelet  (that joins the blue and white in the plug)  under one of the allens that mount the windings to the plate. then there's a bare wire from a winding soldered to that black wire.
 
thanks for all the help

[lawnboy]

disconnect the one winding ground, run that up to the main wiring coming out of it, run that wire and the original lightning to a 2 wire regulator. its super easy to do.  then, you get full wave ac with more than enough power 

so in my case disconnect the bare wire and solder on a new yellow wire and do a 2 to 1 bullet connector to the yellow from the reg. and brown is power out?

just looked a the trail tech instr. wire one yellow to yellow the other yellow to the brown and put switches in-line?

[m in sc]

yes, one ac lead to each leg of the regulator. do not connect the 2 leads coming out of the unit to each other.

i assume you aren't running a battery? if you are, thats a different story.