Wheel building information

[oxford]

  Thanks for posting this!  I've been wanting to start reassembly of a '72 G5-100 Kawi & had the stock rims rechromed.  As to trying it myself without a truing stand....boy, not sure that's viable. I've never done it. Is it a matter of having a small torque wrench to be sure they're all the exact same tightness. Clueless on this subject.

As long as you have some sort of stand for the bike where you can get the wheels off the ground it's no big deal without a trying stand other than you are working a little closer to the ground. 

A wheel mounted in the forks or swingarm and somehow secured to the bench or in a vise would work fine as well.

You have to get a little creative on what you use for an "indicator" and how to "mount" it.  I'm sure there will be some argument on what's better but I just use a simple pointer that keeps getting moved closer towards and it gets more "true" rather than a dial indiactor.  Something plastic zip tied to the fork or swingarm works fine.

I have never used a torque wrench either but a quality spoke wrench is a must.  I've only gone by feel.  I'm sure there are some tighter than others but as long as there is no loose ones and the rim is straight I'm happy.

[Quicklimegirl]

As long as you have some sort of stand for the bike where you can get the wheels off the ground it's no big deal without a trying stand other than you are working a little closer to the ground. 
A wheel mounted in the forks or swingarm and somehow secured to the bench or in a vise would work fine as well.

You have to get a little creative on what you use for an "indicator" and how to "mount" it.  I'm sure there will be some argument on what's better but I just use a simple pointer that keeps getting moved closer towards and it gets more "true" rather than a dial indiactor.  Something plastic zip tied to the fork or swingarm works fine.

I have never used a torque wrench either but a quality spoke wrench is a must.  I've only gone by feel.  I'm sure there are some tighter than others but as long as there is no loose ones and the rim is straight I'm happy.

  Thanks for posting.  I called Buchanan and DAMN they are indeed expensive as hell.  Still not sure I want to try this though. 

I'm really not sure what you mean regarding an "indicator" and how to "mount" it.  I just watched a video of someone lacing on YouTube.  After a few more, I might just try this myself.

[oxford]

I'm really not sure what you mean regarding an "indicator" and how to "mount" it.  I just watched a video of someone lacing on YouTube.  After a few more, I might just try this myself.

You will need some sort of pointer or reference to see what the wheel is doing and what you need to do to correct it.  I see a lot of pictures on the internet of people using a dial indicator for this.  While there is nothing wrong with it and it would be the most accurate I personally feel it really isn't needed.  Most of the time the rim will have some sort of small defect in it(especially at the weld) where you won't be able to get the dial indicator to read zero runout anyways. 

I usually just use some sort of stick or pointer and keep moving it closer to the rim as it gets "straighter" or more true.  Something that won't scratch the rim if you get too close is preferable but metal is fine if your careful.  If doing on the bike a ruler or wooden stick zip tied or rubber banded across the the fork legs or swingarm is good enough for taking the "hop" out.  You then just need something for a pointer or "indicator"  for the side. 

If you get to the point where you are going to do this and really want to do it on a stand instead of the bike, if you pay for shipping and promise to send it back I'll box up my stand and send it out to you to use.  PM me if you want to go that route.

[IR8D8R]

Yep. I did it.
Sun 2.15 front and Sun 2.75 rear with stainless spokes and nipples from Buchanan. Parts just under $850.

Thanks to retaRD for the assembly and truing. Nice job Nathan.

I have a few other things to do before they go on the bike including spending more money (always more money). ...On tires and front suspension rebuild with emulators. I just need to buy the Race Tech Gold Valves.

My garage is layered with a coating of rouge and aluminum dust. I hate polishing. Not done yet. Still have the brake and sprocket plates to finish.

Will a 120/80 rear tire fit in the stock swingarm and clear the chain? I think I will use 100/90 on the front or 100/80 if BT-45. Not fixed on the brand just yet.

IR8D8R

[paul1478]

very cool wheels. I want spoked wheels on my 400 but that does not seem like an easy swap.

[danketchpel]

very cool wheels. I want spoked wheels on my 400 but that does not seem like an easy swap.

Yes, I would like spoked wheels on my RD400 as well. The problem is sourcing the rear hub. They did sell a spoked wheel version in Europe as a lower cost option, so they actually exist stock, but ..... I have yet to run across one (wheel or hub) for sale.

There is a company I found making a custom rear hub for doing spoked rear on a RD using the stock brake rotor but it's $$$$, but.... it does exist though it won't look anywhere near "stock".

[paul1478]

Strange this was just brought back up again. I just asked Andrew about what he used. This is great info and what I was going to ask. I was able to get a rear 400 spoked hub from Germany (thank you Uwe). I have a 350 hub. Just need to decide rim width and tire size.
danketchpel, I looked long and hard at that hub, I even contacted them. They make to order so it would be exactly like a stock spoked hub.

[SoCal250]

Yes, I would like spoked wheels on my RD400 as well. The problem is sourcing the rear hub. They did sell a spoked wheel version in Europe as a lower cost option, so they actually exist stock, but ..... I have yet to run across one (wheel or hub) for sale.

You need to source a spoked disc brake rear hub from a European or Australian RD250 or RD400, or an English RD400C/D, as they had a spoked wheel option. As Paul mentioned, the common source used by many over the years is from Germany. They are pretty hard to find.
You need one of these parts:
1U5-25311-00 from a 2R8/2R9 or 3M3/3M4 model or a
1A3-25311-00 from an English 1A3 RD400C/D model