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HPI ignition install with trail tech regulator

Started by Nkreig, February 26, 2021, 07:35:51 PM

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Nkreig

I am running into a no spark issue with a new HPI iggy I installed.  I followed the directions that are included in the kit and the rest of the instructions I gathered from Chucks post and Marks post.  I cannot get a spark.  I intend to run it as A/C for now until I get a regulator.  Timing is set at 2.0 BTDC at the moment (I'll play with timing later).  I have the yellow wire for the lighting lead connected directly into the power wire on the stock loom for the 12v battery with the yellow wire from the regulator tapped into it.  The brown wire from the regulator is grounded to the frame.  The rest is connected like the instructions show, 3 wire plug into the CDI, coil grounded to the frame and orange wire to the coil.  Currently the black/white wire for the kill switch is not connected to anything (ungrounded).  Anyone have any ideas on what i'm missing here?

m in sc

try to run it with the other wire off the coil not attached to anything. just ground the mount. see if you get spark.

rodneya

What bike are you wiring it into?
Are you wiring it into the stock regulator? subject mentions hpi with trailtech regulator, but the post mentions you still have to get a regulator.

Nkreig

#3
Quote from: m in sc on February 27, 2021, 07:15:21 AM
try to run it with the other wire off the coil not attached to anything. just ground the mount. see if you get spark.
I disconnected the ground wire from the frame and still no spark.  I have continuity on lighting lead on the stator to where I connected it to the stock loom.  I am also getting continuity between the black wire on the stator and the 60w lighting lead?  Not sure if I should be.  I checked the orange wire going to the coil as well and there is continuity between it and the 60w lighting lead.  Is it possible the CDI unit is bad or should there be continuity between all I have mentioned? 
Quote from: rodneya on February 27, 2021, 11:28:31 AM
What bike are you wiring it into?
Are you wiring it into the stock regulator? subject mentions hpi with trailtech regulator, but the post mentions you still have to get a regulator.
The old R/R is removed.  Im running it a/c for now.  At some point I will add a regulator, float a ground and convert to d/c to run a battery.

Czakky

How do you know you have no spark?
I ask because a magneto system barely shows a spark when kicking. Just throwing it out there...

Even though it's unrelated you still need a regulator if running a/c. Just not a rectifier. I'm not totally following your lighting system.

m in sc

you'll get continuity, especially on a digital meter, because all the windings have a ground leg.  Put your meter to 'ac' stick it int he plug wire cap, ground the other. kick it over see if it jumps.  Czakky has a very good point.

Nkreig

Quote from: Czakky on February 27, 2021, 06:17:09 PM
How do you know you have no spark?
I ask because a magneto system barely shows a spark when kicking. Just throwing it out there...

Even though it's unrelated you still need a regulator if running a/c. Just not a rectifier. I'm not totally following your lighting system.
Sorry for the confusion, I meant to say I will add a rectifier later.  I have a trail tech regulator on it.  There is literally no spark.  I tested the plug wire as Mark is suggesting and there is no change on the a/c setting. Its hard to hold everything in place and kick it over.  I have an idea that might work, I will try like Chuck did in his video with a impact gun and crank it over down on the rotor.  Maybe I'll be able to see a spark that way? 

rodneya

You need both plug leads grounded when you check for spark or it will not spark.

I would not try start it until you get the wiring sorted out though. It sounds like you have wired ac power directly into your harness

Nkreig

#8
Quote from: rodneya on February 27, 2021, 08:45:38 PM
You need both plug leads grounded when you check for spark or it will not spark.

I would not try start it until you get the wiring sorted out though. It sounds like you have wired ac power directly into your harness
I feel like something is up with the CDI box.  I have a built 70cc QT50 with an HPI iggy running A/C and never had an issue.  It has a strong visible spark when kicking it over.  Yes, the plugs are grounded to the head fins when kicking it over.  I have also installed a Chinoy iggy on my my TZ/RD, Powerdynamo on my 75 RD350, and built and installed two crane cams conversions for RD's in the past.  Never have I had an issue with no spark. 

I'll start from the beginning to help with the troubleshooting.  My timing is set for 2mm BTDC.  The 3 wires from the 3-way plug are connected to the CDI box, the orange wire (from the CDI) runs directly to the coil, the yellow 60w light lead wire is connected to the trail tech regulator yellow wire and then into the stock loom red wire that the battery is normally attached to.  The ground (brown wire on the regulator) is connected to the frame ground along with the black ground for the CDI box.  At the coil, the ground wire from the coil is grounded to the frame as well.  I followed the instructions from HPI along with the Trail Tech instructions for "Systems with only one lighting lead".  Also, there is no battery attached.  The fuel tank isn't even connected until I get the ignition sorted properly.  I will not start the bike until i get spark. 

m in sc

try disconnecting the ac lead to the VR (regulator). Just leave it hanging.  if when that circuit is open and you get spark, that could very well be it.  you don't need the VR to get spark, BUT, if there's a short in the windings from the lighting coil to the ign coil, this might explain it.  what is the kill wire to the cdi box connected to? anything? if so, disconnect it. .02

1976RD400C

I had a flukey thing happen when I installed a HPI. I had the coil mounted right next to the CDI box and it wouldn't spark due to the coil causing an interference. Are yours close to each other?
'76 RD400 green  '76 RD400 red   '84 RZ350

Nkreig

Quote from: m in sc on February 28, 2021, 08:37:19 AM
try disconnecting the ac lead to the VR (regulator). Just leave it hanging.  if when that circuit is open and you get spark, that could very well be it.  you don't need the VR to get spark, BUT, if there's a short in the windings from the lighting coil to the ign coil, this might explain it.  what is the kill wire to the cdi box connected to? anything? if so, disconnect it. .02
I will try this.  Kill wire is just hanging without a connection to anything.  Ill try to capture some pics of what is wired where tomorrow and what I am disconnecting to assure I am understanding you correctly Mark. 

Quote from: 1976RD400C on February 28, 2021, 10:01:42 PM
I had a flukey thing happen when I installed a HPI. I had the coil mounted right next to the CDI box and it wouldn't spark due to the coil causing an interference. Are yours close to each other?
My coil is in the stock location and the CDI box and regulator are under the battery in the stock location. 

Nkreig

I got spark!  I removed the plug on the CDI box and plugged it back in.  Must not have been seated properly.  Now I have to finish getting the tank back on and fuel lines connected.  I plan to start at 2mm BTDC.  Bike is completely stock.  I ran it at 1.8 with the old setup so I may play with the timing a bit when its running well.  I have one last question for anyone running this ignition with the stock wiring loom.  Did you wire your ground into the stock kill switch to work with the key?  If so, how?  I have an idea of how I would like to approach it but I want to see what has worked for others.