Daytona

[bitzz]

Hard to find a rear master with the groovy 45mm spacing. They're out there, just hard to find.

If you NEED original: Bore it out to 15mm or (even better) bore it out to 9/16 and use car parts to rebuilt it.

[cygnus]

Thanks guys! Like I said in the beginning, taking the time to "take you along" is fair payment for knowledge.

Brand new from the mothership Chuck's SR400 Nissin master is $69.... info like that is well worth the cost of admission! I forwarded the info to the owner with a pic of a junk ebay one for the same price as new to see if that would work for him. It works for me. I would just wait to have the line made until I had the master to verify if any change needed in the recipe since its a side banjo. Likely that fitting would need a slight angle rather than straight. Thanks!

edit.....I also have inquiries with three US based businesses as to cost of resleeving them which is common practice in the vintage auto/industrial world. White Post is the only one I have received a response from today at $225ea (if no custom seal fab required). Waiting on cost comparison with the other two but I may inquire in the UK as its more common there and may be much less.

[Tuck]

Dismantled the brakes to see what was lurking inside there. I will put up a few pics when I get a moment. Using 40 year old lines isn't something I consider so I'll have HEL make up a pair as I see no faithful reproductions. While nasty, both calipers are fine for a rebuild with good looking pistons and bores.

Sadly, both masters have pits in the bores and are scrap. Another expensive reminder of walking by your bike in the garage for 28 years thinking all was ok. Especially since both are more one limited production model/one year items. Only ones on ebay are scrap as well. UK RD250 used the same 14mm Asco but all those on Ebay UK are also suspect. Prior years RD400 Asco would "look" proper but going to 5/8" from 14mm would give an unacceptable ratio I think.....and all of those available are highly suspect which seems the norm for these. Most likely will just put on the 13mm Magura and he will have to live with the different levers as a reminder of motorcycle malfeasance  ;D

The rear looks the same as prior RD400 except for the change from pressure switch to leverage switch so is a swap possibility, just have to make a jumper harness for the switch or plug the orifice (if its a standard pipe thread) and use the oem leverage switch. But, all those found have been sketchy at best as well. HVC has a nice magura refit kit but I'm not keen on bending the frame leverage switch ears to make it fit. But, that may be the best option. Can't be buying scrap parts again and again until I find ones with a good bore.

When I get a chance I will do a "want ad" hoping against hope a member has good spare spares that could be parted with.

If you decide to find a stock master (front) and rebuild, you can get a reservoir kit from Yambits.
Mine's been on for over a year now and works great... No leaks. 

https://yambits.co.uk/rd400f-daytona-usa-brake-master-cylinder-reservoir-kit-front-p-79583.html

[cygnus]

Actually, the reservoir/cap/ bar clamp are the only salvageable parts hahaha

Need to get caught up. I apologize for breaking pics up like I have been....not padding post count. The forum software is pretty adamant about size.

Among other things the caliper bits spent the day in the ultrasonic and cleaned up nice. Perfectly useable. Bores are sweet. The seal grooves needed some detailed polishing but with good oem seals I expect no troubles. Paint was lost where sand under the boots held moisture and corroded but its all patina.

Rear

[cygnus]

front

[cygnus]

rear

[cygnus]

front

[cygnus]

x

[cygnus]

pistons were good after a buff

[cygnus]

x

[cygnus]

Last of the original pile rejuvenated before starting a new one. First time I ever rebuilt switchgear that didnt require chasing ball bearings and springs hahaha

[cygnus]

Today I took the tank off the shelf and put a couple coats of wax on the paint. I took it out to the farm and did the initial drain (guessing a couple gallons left in it) in the corner of the cornfield so as not to stink up any place important. Half hour to get the petcock screws out with vice grips and the petcock looked like it was sealed with tar. 40 minutes to drain it through the petcock orifice which was plugged with something and I wasnt about to touch that nasty crap. Little over an hour to open up the two small 90 degree crossover barbs without poking a hole through them. Empty I was thinking the tank weighed a ton. Flushed a little fuel through and that didnt help anything. Headed to the car wash (small wand.....the one at work is industrial). $10 bucks worth of quarters later this started coming out. Most went down the drain but there was at least the equivalent of that pile 5 times over. I have never seen that shit before hahaha. Dried it is the equivalent of roofing tar. The top/roof of the tank has the most significant rust and a lot of flakes came out. I flushed it tons more at home since the stink was gone mostly and got a lot more smaller pieces out. Hard to get a pic but there is still a lot of that tar in there. Its soaking in Simple Green (only thing I had in quantity) and hot water. Ill get some of the toxic degreaser from work. He will have bought the car wash before I'm through. I have no doubt this tank will be good to go. That tar had sealed it up pretty well. Only rust to speak of is where it wasnt.

[cygnus]

Time to catch up a little. First, the tank is coming clean.....its just on its own time frame. Basically just working up the scale from using least toxic to what it takes.Four days soaking with 1>1 Simple Green and a couple trips to the car wash cut some out but too slow. Dollar General sells a cleaner called LA's Totally Awesome that is good stuff and cheap. Two days soaking in that a little stronger than 1>1 and another car wash trip really cut some of the varnish out. So I got some fresh Awesome and soaked a couple more days. It cut a little more but pretty much what it could do was done in the first shot.

So, next I bought the guy that runs the steamer at work a case of beer  After Saturday before last he helped me make a wand out of parts from three that would somewhat fit in the filler and we steamed it. I didn't really want to do that because it can play hell with paint but being careful no damage was done. That took all the big chunks of tar out. All that was left mainly was the varnish "base. There were a few spots of black left where the water jet couldn't get a good cut because of angles in the tank.

So next I dumped in a half gallon of denatured alcohol and a pint of acetone. I've been rolling it since saturday night before last. Its 85>90% varnish free now. Mainly just the stuff stuck in the seams left to break down. I could have filled it up but more chance of a boo boo that way.

Pics, 1 simple green after four nights....2 Awesome after two nights.....3 awesome after 2 nights

[cygnus]

pics from my tinycam after steaming

[cygnus]

what she is getting too in her own sweet time......havent messed up the paint yet knock on wood