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RD400 running on one cylinder

Started by Joe6v6, June 02, 2024, 09:35:02 PM

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Joe6v6

So I got my 400 running, half way, I only ran it for a few minutes. Ran very ruff & would not idle. It was apparent that it was only running on the left side as the left got warm & was smoking & the right stayed cool & only smoked very little. I am sure the spark, timing & points gap are all correct. I have not verified compression  but I am very confident it will be in spec. I would like any info that would help verifiy the carbs are working correctly & maybe an order in which I should check things. Seems to me that maybe the right carb is wonky, I suppose a leak down test is in order. Would an air leak around the intakes cause something like this?   

Brad-Man

An air leak would have the engine revving high.  What is your battery voltage while idling and at ~3500 rpms?
Toys don't make the man - Man makes the toys.
1974 RD350
1975 RD350/400 project
1985 BMW K100RS

Joe6v6

Quote from: Brad-Man on June 03, 2024, 10:46:23 AMAn air leak would have the engine revving high.  What is your battery voltage while idling and at ~3500 rpms?
13 - 13.5 volts, admittedly I have a small battery 3AH , but in only running the motor right now. Seems the charging system is operating sufficiently. 

Brad-Man

Swap coils around. If nothing changes swap condensers around.
Toys don't make the man - Man makes the toys.
1974 RD350
1975 RD350/400 project
1985 BMW K100RS

m in sc

agreed. if that doesnt do it, plug the choke crossover and swap carbs.

Joe6v6

QuoteSwap coils around. If nothing changes swap condensers around.
Quoteagreed. if that doesnt do it, plug the choke crossover and swap carbs.

Thanks for the replies. As soon as I read this I thought It could not be this simple. I spent enough time on the points & timing to know the correct cylinders were sparking with the correct coil, but of course it is worth a shot. So with high expectations I swapped the coil leads & it would not fire at all, so I put them back & started it. Within 30 seconds the issue became all too apparent. Engine / transmission oil began spurting out of the right header flange. I shut it down & thought well thats what happens to a 50 year old rd engine that has never had the cases split. To be fair I was very far along with this engine before I even learned of the potential Crank seal problems with these engines, so I hoped for the best .  .   So we know what im doing or at least starting this week end.  .   Has any one seen one this bad that oil is preventing ignition? & spewing forth from the header connection? Or probably you guys know - Do not assemble the motor with out doing the seals.  .  I have a good out look here, chalk it up to experience & move on.   . 

Joe6v6

So I started the disassembly of my motor today & wanted to report a rather unusual finding. If you read my previous post the condition I described was rather extreme, today I found out why. See the pictures. When I pulled the gear that keys onto the crankshaft there was a piece of metal between the seal and the surface of the gear that the seal rides on. It seems like it may have been a thrust washer at one time, its definitely a hardened steel maybe .020 thick. What is this? how did it get there?

m in sc

well THATS a new one. wavy washer under the idler gear or a bearing cage ? either way, thats super messed up. have never seen that before.  :eek:

RDnuTZ

will be interesting to see what that seal looks like after you get it out of there
1987 TZR250R Restricted Japan Domestic market bike (Project)
1977 RD400 (Project)
1974 RD350 (2) (Projects)
1973 RD250 (Project)
2022 Beta 300 X-Trainer, Yamaha Vintage MX, YZ (18)