Yamaha RD R5 case questions

[4schizzle]

Thanks for all the help and info!

[4schizzle]

Hello again, I completed the 6 speed swap.  I changed the shift drum, forks and transmissions.  I did figure out that the 6 speed shift drum is smaller and you also need to change the guide and retainer.  Now that its all together it does not want to shift all the way into gear.  I have been staring at OEM parts finders and from what I see is that I also need to change the shift lever 3 on the shift bracket.  The shift brackets have the same part numbers 328-18128-00-00 however the "shift lever 3's are different: R5-278-18151-00-00 and RD: 328-18151-00-00.  Am I correct?  It would make sense as the shift drums are different sizes. 

I also need to buy a complete clutch kit including friction plates and steel plates?  I've read you should change to 1992 FZR1000 friction plates.  Any recommendations on a clutch kit?  Also with the FZR plates I am guessing that the rubber cushions are removed.  Thanks again for the knowledge/help. 

[m in sc]

Im not sure, i always swapped everything over. (THE 2 TIMES IVE DONE IT, SOON TO BE A 3RD IN.. 30 YEARS?)  As far as the clutch goes, yes, the rubber rings go away.

these are the frictions i used. https://www.ebay.com/itm/281062515144

[4schizzle]

Thanks again! 

[4schizzle]

I have another question.  Is it ok to run all the tach components minus the circlip, washer, gear, spacer and pin?  Thus nothing would be driving the output to the tach.  I do not see any reason as to why this would cause a problem.  I do not plan on running a tachometer anyway.  Just wanted to ask to make sure my assumptions are correct. 

[DesmoDrew]

You can leave all the parts out; from the shaft to the cable drive.  Then I use one of these.  Caps off part #10.
 
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-tach-drive-block-off-cap.html

[4schizzle]

Thanks that what I was thinking, but was not sure, so I wanted to check with this encyclopedia of knowledge on this forum.  I should have knew that as I deleted oil pumps on both my motors.

Thanks again, this is such an awesome forum!   

[Twill864]

You also need to swap out the piece the end of the shift shaft rides up on. It has two holes in it and bolts aroud the end of the drum, behind the clutch.

[Twill864]

I can also sell R5 top end if you need.

[4schizzle]

Thanks, but I am going to try the eBay cylinders from the write up on this forum.  I just picked up a set of RD heads that I am cleaning up and recoating. 

[4schizzle]

Clutch question.  I changed to an RD clutch.  It has a 12 spine inner hub with backing plate on the inner hub instead of the R5 inner hub.  From my understanding it should be a 7 plate clutch.  7 frictions and 7 steels but the pressure plate is not touching so i would need 8 frictions and 8 steel plates to complete the clutch stack.  Is this right or did i use a rd400 basket instead of the 350 basket?  Thanks

[RDnuTZ]

I asked this awhile ago too. My understanding is the 1974 RD350 has the preferred 7 plate clutch but 1973 does not. Not certain but I don't think 1975 does either. Longtime former Yamaha dealership mechanic told me the 1974 is the best of the 3 years and clutch was 1st reason given. YMMV

[SoCal250]

I asked this awhile ago too. My understanding is the 1974 RD350 has the preferred 7 plate clutch but 1973 does not. Not certain but I don't think 1975 does either. Longtime former Yamaha dealership mechanic told me the 1974 is the best of the 3 years and clutch was 1st reason given. YMMV

The clutch assembly was updated mid-year in 1973, so not all '73s got the 6-plate. And there should be no difference between a '74 and a '75 as they used the exact same parts.
Details in Tech Bulletin No 312:

[RDnuTZ]

thanks for clarifying and filling in the information gaps

[4schizzle]

Thanks for info and technical bulletin.   I am assuming that the bulletin refers to the inner hub which would change your first plate to a friction instead of a steel plate as it has a backing plate on the inner hub.

R5 inner hub #2: