Most used gear oil and 2stroke oil

[m in sc]

im not proud or brand committed for sure. but everyone's preference works for them

[RDnuTZ]

I've seen it claimed in more than 1 place that full synthetic is "too slippery" for our old clutches. Same used to be said for ATF which was really popular in dirt bikes back in the 1970s. Some oils specifically are recommended for "high mileage" engines. Ford has recommended semi synth for decades. Anybody have any test articles confirming a clear winner between old dinosaur oil vs newer tech synthetics?

[m in sc]

clutches are clutches (wet). no one's running full fiber discs these days, and the 4t motorcycle oil is made for wet clutches.  so doesn't apply. maybe if you were running automotive mobile 1 or something w friction modifiers.. sure.  but thats not the case

[JKV45]

One change that has occurred to oil is the reduction of additives like ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorus) that protect high pressure valvetrain parts like cams/lifters/rockers from damage in certain conditions.

Back in the day, regular auto oils were fine for cycle engines.  Currently, regular auto oils are no longer safe.  Diesel oils don't have the same restrictions, so they still have adequate levels of ZDDP.

That's why a lot of people run a diesel oil like Rotella.

Anything a conventional oil can do - a synthetic oil can do better.  Synthetics flow better in cold weather and won't breakdown with extreme heat like conventional oils do.  Their closed molecular structure makes them stronger and more resistant to oxidation.

EDIT:  For 2-stroke trans oil, I don't believe ZDDP levels will matter, as it's mainly protection for high pressure contact surfaces found in the valvetrain.  Friction Modifiers aren't an issue for the most part, as they are only used in oils under 40-grade,

[m in sc]

very true.. but only really'flat tappet' cams issue mostly. really not a big issue on the Japanese stuff, tbh.  at least ive never ever seen an issue on a dohc shim and bucket setup.ive seen a few v8 cams get wiped out tho.

[JKV45]

very true.. but only really'flat tappet' cams issue mostly. really not a big issue on the Japanese stuff, tbh.  at least ive never ever seen an issue on a dohc shim and bucket setup.ive seen a few v8 cams get wiped out tho.

As I understand it, you want the higher levels of ZDDP on any non-roller cam valvetrain.

[pdxjim]

very true.. but only really'flat tappet' cams issue mostly. really not a big issue on the Japanese stuff, tbh.  at least ive never ever seen an issue on a dohc shim and bucket setup.ive seen a few v8 cams get wiped out tho.

As I understand it, you want the higher levels of ZDDP on any non-roller cam valvetrain.

Yup. I use high ZDDP Valvoline VR-1 in my Porsche, although Rotella has adequate levels of zinc too.

[bitzz]

As I understand it, you want the higher levels of ZDDP on any non-roller cam valvetrain.

You WANT about 1100-1200 PPM ZDDP. Too much ZDDP is a BAD thing.
Most motorcycle oils have about that level of ZDDP, any car oil advertising elevated ZDDP levels should have that much ZDDP. "Normal" car oil has about 800-900 PPM. ZDDP clogs car cat converters.
ZDDP is a lubricant of "last resort", if all else fails, there's still ZDDP... or boron or .... The idea is if you wipe all the oil off a metal surface (run out of oil), there is still a coat of ZDDP. You don't WANT to use the ZDDP... but it coats all metal surfaces, not just cam followers, mains and big ends too.
ZDDP is not the be all and end all of oil choices.

And the two things that have changed the most since these bikes were built is oil and tires. When these bikes were built; there was no "gear lube" and they were designed to use Reg 30 oil in the trans, not because it was GOOD, but because it was available everywhere. Gear lube is BETTER... you can build a gear lube with more sheer and less lubricity than a motor oil, that works better in a transmission.
IF you are going to run gear lube: you MUST use GL4, nothing else (use GL3 if you can find it, but GL3 was superseded by GL4). GL4 has lower levels of sulfur, the bright metal in the trans doesn't like sulfur. So no GL4/GL5... must be GL4.
Viscosity is rated differently in gear lube than motor oil... so a 75-80 gear lube is about the same viscosity as a reg 30 motor oil... about.

[Kawtriplefreak]

I will throw my hat in the ring. I use Lucas 80/90 in all my 2 stroke transmissions with good results over many years of hard street miles. I was a Klotz man for both premix and injector oil for many years and loved it until my research indicated that it contains little to no corrosion inhibitors and my bikes set a lot.
I switched to Blue Marble oil for years also with great results. Recently it has become unavailable. Now I am running Lucas semi-synthetic. It is reasonable in price and available locally. I am of the opinion that almost all of modern 2 stroke oils are superior to what our 2 strokes were designed to run on.

[quocle603]

Thanks for ending another oil thread

[sav0r (CL MotoTech)]

For vintage motorcycles I don't think it matters much. The gearboxes are overbuilt and even in fairly extreme trim oil isn't the weak point for either engine or transmission performance.

For our race cars we've run some extremely exotic oils. Some worked and some didn't and I've seen a few transmissions bite it. I personally did one in for the tune $10k. Different problems can arise when you are doing dry sump and even dry sump transmissions. These aren't problems these old bikes have. Put oil in them and they are likely to work.

[RDDave]

im not proud or brand committed for sure. but everyone's preference works for them

THIS RIGHT HERE!

I have read dozens of oil threads on car and bike forums over the years. And my take-away is that in most non-specialized applications, most modern oils are just fine for our dinosaurs who, by the way, fared pretty well with the far inferior oils (by today's standards) available during most of their lives. Which is why there is always LOTS of positive recommendations for a myriad of different oils. It's because ALL of the major oils work just fine for the typical, non specialized application.

Personally, I use YamahaLube. Not because I think it is the best. But because it is not expensive, is readily available, and has never caused any kind of issue. I run it in my Enduro and my RD and have run it in all my Yamahas forever (meaning decades). How much better than that can you get by spending more money or going to more difficulties in acquiring your oil?

 

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[Tropic-al]

In my cars I use Mobil1 Synthetic.
on the 2 Yamahas, a 1979 XS1100 F and a 2015 VStar 950 Tourer, I use Yamalube. If not for the only reason that if they warranty their new bikes for 3 years, their oil must be good enough.

[Simoniz]

BelRay Gear Saver 80W has given me the best results out of all the various oils I have used over the years. Better shifts and smoother all round.

[m in sc]

im going to say this much about one bike I have. the 72 t500 i run gear oil . the transmissions are notoriously clunky and have 5th gear issues,in that bike I run 75 wt Dino gear oil