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One thing I noticed about the SmartCarb 2T applications is that there is no (as far as I can see on the website) provision or mention of a Powerjet 
Mikuni (on TZs), Lectron and the XTING all have them.  Another thing that is cool on the SC is the shape of the venturi on the engine side.  It has a distinct 'V' shape, which may(?) alleviate the need/benefit for a divider plate.

   It is a lot of coin for a carb(s).  But it may be useful information to someone.  How many members struggle for months, if not years, to attempt to jet carbs, when a modern, if costly, solution is available.  Some never get it right and burn through pistons and cylinders regularly. 
   Believe me, SmartCarb is not giving me any sort of backing or discount.  But after playing with one, I can see the benefit.  How many people are willing to fork out almost a grand for Webco heads that do literally very little to nothing to improve performance or tuneability?  Just bling. My RD250 was clocked in the traps, at an AHRMA race at Daytona @ 130mph.  I won both my races that weekend.  Stock RD non-wavy heads.  So trust me, heads make f-all difference.  Not saying to not spend the money on bling. I love it when people support these vintage bikes and build them into cool specimens. 
   But to put it in perspective, right now I am working on an SR500 for a guy.  He spent $600 on Rizoma lights and more $$ on other bling.  But it won't run and that's why he brought it to me.  When I told him where he Really needed to spend the money, he was offended (carb is not the issue here) and reminded me how much he spent on his turn signals   

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/5d/7d/14/5d7d14eb588e9e6c198356c7f93b25b5.jpg

who knows. victim of a bad previous repair but i'd venture to guess it was used for the ground wire at the flasher mount. at least its not lampcord.

RIGHT!!!!!   As long as it is running well, the other stuff is pretty easy to puzzle out. 

   So the carb isn't for a two-stroke.  It isn't even for a motorcycle (although it does have a motorcycle/scooter engine).  But I thought I would share my actual experience with the, I think, most expensive motorcycle carb out there.  I know the SmartCarb has been of interest to a few members, but I don't believe anyone has pulled the trigger on one, or a pair. 
   A friend of many years has a fleet of micro-cars, and I have Finally earned enough credibility with her to become her go-to source for maintenance and problem solving. Usually the cars were getting put in a container and shipped back to Europe just to get the spark plugs changed!     Just kidding, but not really kidding......
   The 'car' is a Hienkel Kabine.  200cc 4-stroke motorcycle engine.  Carbs are a huge issue for these vehicles.  Originals are unobtainium, and the 'solutions' available are all over the place.  Hers had an Indian made knock-off of a 50 year old Lambretta scooter carb.  Two-stroke carb on a four-stroke engine    It was on there when she bought the 'car' and it never ran right.  So after cleaning the carb and messing with internals of unknown quality and specification I say......"I think we should try a Smart Carb" (hell, it ain't my money  )  I mentioned to her that I had already been in contact with their technical department and they felt they could help.  So the words "here is my credit card" were spoken and I was on the phone to SmartCarb 

   So........the carb is a VERY nice piece of hardware.  Fit and finish are exceptional.  Looks and feels totally custom, without that 'made in some guy's garage' feel. There are no bowl vents or overflows.  The fitting and hose at the bottom of the float bowl are for draining the bowl.  SmartCarb mentions that 'internally venting' the carb is the reason that setting the carb up to run at sea level and riding to much higher elevations require no re-tuning, as well as tuning not being affected by temperature or humidity.   As mentioned, I spoke with SmartCarb and gave them the information regarding the application.  The technical dept then did some research and got back with me about a week later.  They felt they had a solution and the carb was ordered. It arrived after a few weeks and the first thing I noticed was that the vehicle application and all the tuning set-up for my (her) particular carb was hand written on the back of the instruction manual.  So, it seems, that it was individually tuned for the application.    I had also asked for a 90 degree noodle on top, rather than a straight cable guide, and that was done.  And I mentioned that I would need to swap out the knob choke for a cable actuated version and SmartCarb told me that Mikuni choke parts interchange.    
   After making a new throttle cable and installing the Mikuni cable choke assemble it was time to fire it up.  The engine fired right up and idled nicely.  After warming up the engine kind of stumbled off idle but then picked up nicely.  So, I decided to richen it up a bit.  Here is where the SmartCarb is so FREAKING slick.  Since there are no jets or screws, all adjustments are done with the needle, ala Lectron.  But rather than having to pull the top off the carb and use a special tool to adjust the needle like a Lectron, on the SmartCarb you simply open the throttle all the way; engine OFF of course, push the adjusting knob down to engage the needle, and turn the knob.  I turned the knob Clockwise to raise the needle.  There are 10 'clicks' per each revolution and the detents are easy to feel.  I went 3 clicks.  The throttle response was noticeably better, and I was impressed that it worked.
   What I find interesting is that a Lectron needle must always have the flat part of the needle facing the 'engine side' of the carb.  The SmartCarb needle does not seem to have that requirement.  I merely rotated the needle 3 positions, out of 10 for one complete revolution, so there is no way the flat side of the needle is still in the same orientation as far as air flow.
   So, as far as the carb, I am very happy and impressed with the technology, in that it seems to work.  It would definately be a big expense for a twin cylinder 2-stroke street bike, but, based on my hands-on experience I would definitely give one a try on a two-stroke single, on or off road, if I were looking to upgrade my carb.

Pictures:    https://ibb.co/album/ngvjfn

Yellow wire 'should' be for the tail/brake light circuit.  Turn signal wires to and from the flasher relay are Brown and Brown/White.  But I can see that 'should' means very little considering the connector on the end. 

  Best and easiest to get solution is a dual cable throttle and then two splitters.  TZ750 throttles are out there, but rare.  KZ1000 is a horse of a different color and not at all applicable;  One cable, activating a pulley connected to a shaft that works 4 carbs that are bolted together in one solid bank.

I have these.  They do fine.  A 'bottom' tap will work also, but that is more likely to remove more metal than necessary.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/bolt-thread-chasers-p

They are not RD.  Look like DT.  They are not 'brown' faces, they are sun/age faded black.

   I like it.  See it sometimes where I live and in Orlando.  At least is takes some skill and has a social element, and they are on motorcycles (I like motorcycles).  Much preferred to the teen and twenty-something redneck dipshits that ride through town in their (daddy bought) jacked up diesel 4x4 trucks with the megaphone tailpipes making the engine spew black smoke and noise while people try to enjoy a walk or outdoor meal in our downtown. 

Is that a bullet hole(s) in the passenger door?  Please be 'yes'. 

   Very cool!  I have looked at those since they first re-released the Mini.  I have taken 4-wheels on 2-wheeled rides before.  When it's hot-as-balls or pouring rain.  My mantra is, 'I'm not afraid to be comfortable!'. 

Looks good.  A nice simple solution that will has a noticeable improvement.

Next thing i'll do it put in a koso cam chain tensioner (ball bearing roller typce) at some point way down the road. but thats it. 

   Ever consider putting in a DHM manual cam chain tension adjuster as well?  I put a manual tensioner in my WR250R.  Quieted the engine down at all rpms and smoother power off the bottom when the oil pressure is low (low rpms).  Makes stuff last longer as well.  No sudden loss of tension when backing off at high rpms.

Just had my Works shocks rebuilt by Vintage Works MX in Texas. All new seals and bushings and oil and nitrogen. Also re-valved the rebound damping to slow it down a bit.  Beautiful work and what a difference in the ride 👍🏻

If you've just got to have one.........

https://hippykillergarage.myshopify.com/products/hk-spark-plug-holder 

The 'Hippy Killer'  (lame name) one is an accurate copy.  I think the originals were from Preston Petty.