In fall of last year, after about near completion of semi-restoring my brother's Suzuki RG500 Gamma (that's a topic for another day) I was already looking for yet another project.
There's something about being around motorcycles even if means not riding'em and killing time in garage more so in winters makes me calm. Yea, that's my drug of choice!!!
Being a Yamaha fan-boi (always had a special place for Yammies) I was looking for 2-strokers ONLY which means the TZ/RZ/RD projects. The Gamma project was so addicting that although I'm a guy of limited skill-set and worked with it's previous owner to get it going I was longing to get one myself (and kick myself EVERYDAY for I "almost" got one, but I needed a cage. You see the guy was selling his collection - 14 at one point with 2 or 3 Gammas). Maybe someday a RG500 or TZ750 will be on cards.
I started my moto-journey with lil 100cc 2-strokers and eventually graduated to a liter bike and onto a v-twin which are good in their own right but actually a BIG BUT ... lack the soul and smell (know what I mean). AND I've been in my younger years a fan of Wayne Rainey, Kevin Schwantz, King Kenny, Barry Sheene, Wayne Gardener ... who isn't. Someday I would like to shake hands with these legends sans Barry (RIP).
So for better or worse, I ended up with a basket case with an understanding that it's missing few parts and needs - paint job and motor work. Note that I've never seen a RZ350 before in person just all the hearsay.
So here it is ...
Moving on, though I had a good idea that with my skill-set (remember I told ya - it's limited) I hit snags earlier than expected.
Turns out that I got few missing parts:-
a. The rear shock absorber is from a different bike think FJ/Maxim or similar. Showa as I remember.
b. Missing the Speedometer assembly and it's bracket.
c. Parts missing for steering damper (Only later on I came to know it's not even a factory part. One of those things you learn as you go).
d. No kick stand, rear outer fender, Wind-shield and countless tiny parts mostly gaskets, seals, nuts, bolts .... the whole nine yards.
I got so dejected looking at 'few' missing parts that I left it as-is for a month or so. Than again, hesitantly decided to have it restored than doing myself (and with other things with life in general), so I called few people who can handle it but to my horror (nothing against them) the numbers I was given were too steep for my pocket. Plus I would be missing all the fun and what's the point on having others to do without even taking a fair shot.
So, I got onto shopping spree and some parts I got on with were:-
A rear shock and adjuster.
Speedometer assembly wth the bracket. Now that's an arm and leg these days.
I ended up with a used but clean steering damper. "MADE IN JAPAN" baby!
Kick stand from Europe
Rear outer fender and tool trolley from Europe
Wind-shield (USA made)
The more I looked the more was missing and I was having a nervous break-down since that is directly proportional to the budget. Talk about inflation!
Of course of next month or so, I got parts from Ebay, Facebook marketplace, Yambits and on this forum. BTW, spoke with amazing folks and was satisfying to know that I'm not only one with these addictions.
The most terrible was Footrest Bolt #90109-10754-00 for believe it or not a whopping $75 (about $28 or so for part itself and rest in shipping/handling from Germany). This was upsetting but then again I called few places around town and it seemed that no one had it in-stock and me being me was desperate.
The parts procured is documented with price and I kept an excel just as I did for Gamma. Maybe I'll post it here once I figure how to.
Speedometer completed and installed. I decided not to rollback.
One good thing I had with me was Ron, the guy working on motor. He's not only a seasoned mechanic but also had done a lot of similar work in few decades now. So he took upon himself to sort out the motor. As of this writing, it's about 80% or more complete.
Bottom-end (crank, bearings, etc) and top-end (along side piston honing) is done and just needs the oil and water pumps to go back on. So, we're almost there.
Next up, the paint-job. The guy has done work with me on the Gamma so I know his work top-notch I must say but with freezing winter we got a bit derailed with timelines. I hope to have to get it next next week.
While I was waiting on all these, I started looking at the parts daigram so much that I was able to sort out the basket case and do a trial run by putting suspension, wheels, wiring, etc together. Believe it or not, this was so gratifying to see that it's not that daunting as it seemed and I was finally getting somewhere.
And to give credit where it's due a HUGE help came in from these sources. THANK YOU!!!
Ken's Garage: https://www.youtube.com/c/KensGarage1
powervalve pete's garage: https://www.youtube.com/@powervalvepetesgarage
https://www.2strokeworld.net
https://www.rzrd500.com
Exhausts are from what I've been told to be older DG pipes. I'm hopeful that they get the 2-stroke crackle if not I'll get some Toomeys or Spec II or All-Speed / Microns.
I'll have the UNI filters for now with the stock carbs (still needs to have the 2T oil nozzle put back on) with a bore size of 64.25mm
A trial run and state where it sits of of this writing.
looking good. the DG rz pipes are pretty good compared to everything else they did exhaust wise, not sure exactly what those are but should def sound good and hopefully perform well. straight headpipes def show its an older design (vs tapered)
good progress for sure :olaf: :clap:
Looking good!
:thumbs: excellent! Thanks for putting another RZ back on the road, and reach out if you need something. I have RZ parts, and I'll look for that clevis pin. Contrary to what you might expect, most John Deere parts are metric spec, so your pin might also fit a green tractor.
I might have a few bits and pieces laying about, feel free to reach out..................D
The bike is looking very good. Thanks for the "Ken's Garage" mention in your post and glad you found the channel helpful. Post here if you need part as others mentioned. I typically don't sell any of my hoard because every time I do I need that part next week. But on occasion help others out. Looking forward to more on your build.
Thanks everyone for the kind words and encouragement. :patriot:
Ken, I really enjoy your videos and wouldn't have gone far without them for sure. Needles to say, I'm subscribed. Is there any secret recipe on setting the mufflers to get the distinctive 2-stroke crackle the way you got at 1 minute mark in this video below?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LB1nB0jDH4
Right now the clevis pin and the exhaust springs are the only ones I foresee so John Deere parts and/or Tractor supply might help but I'll let you guys know.
Quote from: skyline on February 01, 2024, 06:42:11 PMIs there any secret recipe on setting the mufflers to get the distinctive 2-stroke crackle the way you got at 1 minute mark in this video below?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LB1nB0jDH4
No secret recipe. That first start video was in the garage and it was all closed up. I did repack those Spec 2 silencers years ago. When I did that years ago I thought it got too quiet. My thrasher bike with Toomeys I have never repacked the silencers. It's loud and I love it. The 500 sings a good tune also. I'm sure your bike will sound great with those (Toomey?) pipes although the silencers look non-Toomey. Good luck.
Quote from: kpke on February 02, 2024, 08:13:06 AMQuote from: skyline on February 01, 2024, 06:42:11 PMIs there any secret recipe on setting the mufflers to get the distinctive 2-stroke crackle the way you got at 1 minute mark in this video below?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LB1nB0jDH4
No secret recipe. That first start video was in the garage and it was all closed up. I did repack those Spec 2 silencers years ago. When I did that years ago I thought it got too quiet. My thrasher bike with Toomeys I have never repacked the silencers. It's loud and I love it. The 500 sings a good tune also. I'm sure your bike will sound great with those (Toomey?) pipes although the silencers look non-Toomey. Good luck.
Thanks Ken, I'll see how it goes. I'd probably add a first-start video as the time comes.
Over the weekend it snowed quite a bit here (10 inches) but I did some work on the RZ. I finally added the rear wheel collar that I somehow missed and was bugging me.
I checked the carbs and they looked to be fine, so I didn't bother rebuilding as they look pretty clean and got the UNI filters installed. I also got the Boyesen reeds to go as well.
Now I have two things that to sort out, perhaps you gentlemen can educate me:-
1. I laid out the throttle cables. Mine has the stock push-pull setup but somehow the cable is 1-into-3 type.
I thought on standard setup we have the following ones:-
Throttle Cable #1 (throttle & pump cable):
OEM Part number: 48H-26260-00 (supersession 48H-26260-09 )
Throttle Cable #2:
OEM Part number: 48H-26312-00
Can someone pitch in and see why the difference? Do I have wrong one? :umm:
2. I laid out the wiring to the best of my ability looking at the manual, seeing what's done on forums, etc. but I see this black wire and suppose this is for ground. Can someone show me where this goes?
Some pics attached for reference.
Thanks in advance.
Yup, you have the wrong cable assy for a U.S. spec RZ there. I would guess what you have is for a Canadian RZ or an LC, as the small barrels on the ends of your cables are meant to pull slides up, rather than rotate the bell crank of the conjoined RZ carbs. The cable you need has a larger barrel, oriented the other way.
Quote from: 85RZwade on February 05, 2024, 10:12:26 AMYup, you have the wrong cable assy for a U.S. spec RZ there. I would guess what you have is for a Canadian RZ or an LC, as the small barrels on the ends of your cables are meant to pull slides up, rather than rotate the bell crank of the conjoined RZ carbs. The cable you need has a larger barrel, oriented the other way.
Thanks for checking the cable, you're correct indeed.
Is anyone willing to part a spare at reasonable price?
This is up for grabs if anyone needs, just offer me decent price (only wrong thing - it's got is the rubber connector cracked as seen in picture). Else I'll eventually put it in SALE section.
I should have a cable for the EPA carbs. If I do I will be willing to swap you even for the cable for individual carbs as that is what I am running on both of my RZs. Or if you are interested in a pair of Canadian individual stock 26MM RZ carbs that you can use instead with the cables you have clean and ready to bolt on they will be $200 plus shipping. I have developed a hatred for the stock 48H EPA bridged carbs that knows no bounds because of how hateful they are to work on.
Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on February 05, 2024, 09:55:45 PMI should have a cable for the EPA carbs. If I do I will be willing to swap you even for the cable for individual carbs as that is what I am running on both of my RZs. Or if you are interested in a pair of Canadian individual stock 26MM RZ carbs that you can use instead with the cables you have clean and ready to bolt on they will be $200 plus shipping. I have developed a hatred for the stock 48H EPA bridged carbs that knows no bounds because of how hateful they are to work on.
Great! Let's shoot for swap but if you don't find them we can think of those Canadian carbs.
OK
If somehow Tim does not end up with that cable I will take it. Hope it all works out!!!
Quote from: kpke on February 06, 2024, 09:36:07 AMIf somehow Tim does not end up with that cable I will take it. Hope it all works out!!!
Noted.
I have the cable. Will contact with pictures and address via PM.
PMs sent.
Few updates ...
85RZwade - Thanks for the tip on tractor parts. Over the weekend I ended up at the Big R and Tractor Supply but wasn't lucky enough.
The measurements on the pin required are - 3/16 x 2 1/2 inches (in case anyone is looking for it). I got'em on Ebay.
I decided to retain the stock push/pull (throttle & pump) cable for now that is. Tim was kind enough to sell me a set, they should be here this week. Highly appreciated.
I'll keep the Canadian RZ/LC cable (1-into-3 type) since in talking with Tim, I learnt that for bigger carbs I'll need it. Plan down the lane is to eventually get the Keihin PWK 28mm or flat-side Mikuni TM28 perhaps.
I still need to figure out the 'black wire' in the wiring loom (inputs?) but the battery is out of stock near me. I'm leaning away from the Yuasa conventional acid type and looking for an acid-free.
Any recommendations, please?
And finally, the motor is about done. It's been delayed due to some inclement weather plus other projects Ron's working on simultaneously. I'm thinking a week from now before I get my hands on it.
Some pics from his workbench ...
For a battery I would recommend looking into MotoBatt (https://www.motobatt.us/parts-finder?type=4&make=67&year=1985&model=RZ350%20YPVS). I have them in a few of my bikes. I prefer AGM over conventional acid filled and lithium.
Hmm, I usually soak my clutch plates before installation.
Quote from: dgorms on February 12, 2024, 08:39:23 PMHmm, I usually soak my clutch plates before installation.
Never heard of this, I'll inquire with him when I get to his shop next time.
Quote from: dgorms on February 12, 2024, 08:39:23 PMHmm, I usually soak my clutch plates before installation.
+1
Ok, so I got the motor back and also got the MotoBatt battery. I did check on soaking clutch plates and was told that it's on new plates not on older ones which I got.
I need help on the carbs which seem to have been plugged for premix. I cannot locate the oil lines going into the carbs. Can someone tell if these are the oil injection connectors? Picture attached for review.
Thanks in advance!
^ Yes, that's the port on the carb for the oil injection line. Looks like you'll need to replace/ repair that damaged and short brass carb nipple. Your other carb will have a similar port.
A couple pics that may help
(https://i.imgur.com/St3afMY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hrpn2kz.jpg)
And a video
Quote from: kpke on February 18, 2024, 08:28:13 AMA couple pics that may help
(https://i.imgur.com/St3afMY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hrpn2kz.jpg)
And a video
Much appreciated!
Some more updates, seems to be faster than expected for me but no complains :metal:
Got the motor back and into the frame, hooked up the battery although no current yet so I might have to fiddle around. Also got the carbs back from Ron, he did a great job on them.
Lookin good!
Hit a snag, turning on the ignition gives NO indication of any current whatsoever (no servo motor click, horn, blinkers, etc.). I also did charge the battery using trickle charger. I see two wires that I seem to not have any idea:-
1. Audio Pilot Assembly (part # 48H-83390-20-00) - This is ONLY required for stock exhaust with CAT, I saw Ken's videos and look like he skipped them too. Reference minute mark 3:30 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGdgqExZpQ0
Am I getting it right?
2. This black terminal ring coming from the main harness doesn't seem to makes sense on where goes. Can someone help, please?
(https://i.postimg.cc/hjJ9mg5v/IMG-9902.jpg)
:whistle: mine is, uh, less clean
Thanks for the fast response. Still doesn't work.
Check your fuse box connections. If you still have the factory original fuse box, they are notorious for flaking out. In that case, wire in a new repop one or convert to a blade type box.
Make damn sure that ring lug for ground has an excellent connection.
(https://i.imgur.com/WQdNYwR.jpg)
And what Evans said. All of mine (except the original 83) get this treatment
(https://i.imgur.com/WGEwxu9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/27TDOsm.jpg)
Thanks 85RZwade, Ken and Evans! Appreciate all the responses.
I tried what Ken has shown for ground connection. Charged the battery to it's fullest and checked on fuses. Still the same. :bang:
So, next thing I'm gonna do is follow Evans idea and ordered a Hella Fuse box with 6 circuit capacity (#H84960091). The more impatient I get ..... the more elusive it is.
Before you modify more circuits, go back to basics. Check the connector to the key switch and see if you have power to the switch and then see if you have power coming out of the switch to the various circuits. And check the connectors at that huge assed battery stuffed in there.
One trick I learned to check battery condition is to fit a battery tender pigtail for charging and just plug in a battery tender voltage tester. You can quickly wee battery voltage as you turn on different circuits and when it's running you can see voltage as it charges.
Quote from: teazer on February 25, 2024, 09:48:47 AMBefore you modify more circuits, go back to basics. Check the connector to the key switch and see if you have power to the switch and then see if you have power coming out of the switch to the various circuits. And check the connectors at that huge assed battery stuffed in there.
One trick I learned to check battery condition is to fit a battery tender pigtail for charging and just plug in a battery tender voltage tester. You can quickly wee battery voltage as you turn on different circuits and when it's running you can see voltage as it charges.
Good point! I'll update on what I find out. Hopefully nothing crazy.
Okay, so few more updates from the weekend - Once again my good friend Brian came to the rescue.
Electrical issue fixed (well sorta). The culprit was the main connector that goes to ignition, it had 2 wires (Red-main & brown-ground?) cut up by previous owner. Once fixed, it does the YPVS valve check, lights, signals work. Still have elusive neutral light, rear brake light and horn to chase on.
While we were at it, changed from glass fuse to blade style as well.
Meanwhile, I also got the expansion chambers back on. Front brakes too. Throttle tube sticks so I have to get a new one (I tried 2 so far and they don't return back).
yeah! progress!!
I couldn't make much progress lately due to some snags - broke the drive chain riveting tool, throttle sticking after trying out 4 different tubes, neutral light doesn't seem to work (I did check the bulb and routing diagram).
I did end up getting a fix for the broken oil tank mount. Apparently this is a known issue with most of the restorations I ran across. SO instead of welding a mount point, I got these - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255735126653?itmmeta=01HVHGJ2CH4APZGCPC624ZFF1A&hash=item3b8b005a7d:g:Ve0AAOSwZ3BjKSWq
So I finally towed it over to a trusted mechanic who coincidentally had 2 of these back in the day. He was just as excited as I am so we'll see how it goes.
Dude, you're almost there! Went thru the same sh## with one of mine. Check "ALL" the connections!
Quote from: kpke on February 02, 2024, 08:13:06 AMQuote from: skyline on February 01, 2024, 06:42:11 PMIs there any secret recipe on setting the mufflers to get the distinctive 2-stroke crackle the way you got at 1 minute mark in this video below?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LB1nB0jDH4
Now that's a sound with Authority!
No secret recipe. That first start video was in the garage and it was all closed up. I did repack those Spec 2 silencers years ago. When I did that years ago I thought it got too quiet. My thrasher bike with Toomeys I have never repacked the silencers. It's loud and I love it. The 500 sings a good tune also. I'm sure your bike will sound great with those (Toomey?) pipes although the silencers look non-Toomey. Good luck.
So, got quite a few updates ..... quite a bit actually.
1. The speedometer had missing parts - clutch meter and retainer clutch. Luckily I had them so that worked out.
2. The front brakes were installed incorrectly - yea that's solely user/installer error -> Me. So Dave (my mechanic) ended up fixing that, also swap hoses (again, no guessing who that was) and bled them.
3. Needed rear wheel bearings, seals and sprocket carrier bearing. I had a stash of those that came with the parts, so that's off the to-do list now.
4. Carbs - I had taken apart only of the carbs and it was clean so didn't bother with the other one. Turns out that had all the gunk in it and there was no way it would have started. The other issue was that the brass starter bleed pipe is missing on the right one (not sure if that's how they come) so ... eventually ... I may just go for the VM-34 that were bought from up north many moons ago for a RD350 and were never used. I was fore-warned by KawiTripeFreak on the carbs and how they are a pain to setup. I learnt it (kinda) first hand.
5. Sticky throttle was not because of handlebars or tube as thought of earlier. It was the gunked-up carb doing it all. After cleanup, just works fine.
6. Had a nail in the tire so I had a new one installed. I went with the factory specs Bridgestone Battlax BT46.
7. Swingarm linkage dust covers were missing so I ended up procuring those.
8. Coolant pipe on the clutch side wasn't seated in all the way so that would have been a disaster. I'm glad I got to Dave and let the SME handle it. I would have surely blew up the transmission and not even know the why's of it.
9. Gas tank and the other body work is back from painter. He did quite an impressive job sans the time taken but I'm quite happy on the outcome. He's a hard-working dude and I guess we can cut him a slack after-all stuff happens.
10. The neutral light was still ever elusive as it has been and I ended up with a CU but the existing one magically worked after few starts. Yay!
11. Fuel petcock needs rebuild so I'm waiting on it.
12. Still have thermostat issue to tackle, it's been leaking and we tried 2 of'em so far and on to testing 3rd one. Apparently they do not sell just the seal so it has to be in it's entirety.
13. Got the kick starter spring and ball which were missing too.
Question for you guys - I have a leak in the inside seam of the 2T oil tank (see pic). Have any ideas on fixing it?
At this point, I'm so broke that I don;t want to shell more money on a new tank. :bang:
I might have an oil tank to donate, let me check my "STASH".
Quote from: dgorms on April 25, 2024, 07:47:10 PMI might have an oil tank to donate, let me check my "STASH".
Much obliged.
So, I had a last minute surprise when I went to pickup - one oil seal was missing. I got lucky to have it in stock at local store and FINALLY got it home.
It rained going home but was trouble free nevertheless.
Still have few issues to deal with:
a. Overflow in Carbs, probably float height needs to be adjusted.
b. Left exhaust leaking.
c. 2T Oil tank seeping, still need to find ways for a fix.
All in all, very happy with end result.
HUGE thanks to:
Brian
Dave
Orlando
Ken's Garage: https://www.youtube.com/c/KensGarage1
powervalve pete's garage: https://www.youtube.com/@powervalvepetesgarage
Members on this forum
and my kid brother.
AND it's riding season! Congratulations, and enjoy :thumbs:
by the way.. the brass choke tube ont he TH carb isn't used. it all feeds off the left.
looks great! enjoy it!
Quote from: 85RZwade on May 03, 2024, 03:39:17 PMAND it's riding season! Congratulations, and enjoy :thumbs:
That was the plan to have it done by summer so yes worked out fine.
Thanks you!!!
Quote from: m in sc on May 03, 2024, 03:59:41 PMby the way.. the brass choke tube ont he TH carb isn't used. it all feeds off the left.
looks great! enjoy it!
Good to know, I had the VM34s on standby but I'll run these for now.
Thank you!
That bike looks wonderful. Nice work. Fix your little issues and enjoy riding the thing. You will get lots of attention most everywhere you go. Thanks for the YT channel mention!
Quote from: kpke on May 04, 2024, 07:24:12 AMThat bike looks wonderful. Nice work. Fix your little issues and enjoy riding the thing. You will get lots of attention most everywhere you go. Thanks for the YT channel mention!
Thanks Ken, your work is truly motivational. Speaking of attention, I already was asked by my mechanic if I were to consider it for sale. Needless to say I declined but promised to give him first stab if I were to change my mind.
So taking my friend Brian's help (knows fabrication) we tried fixing the left exhaust. It turns out someone jimmied it to a level that even after handful of tries we could make it stop leaking. Got an inspection with State Patrol coming up shortly and I'm afraid it won't pass as it's too noticeable so, a new item to add on.
I was thinking to try out just different silencers but know I'm on hunt for the entire thing. If anyone is willing to part, I'm all ears.