Here it is, a C&J framed TZ750. I won't need to build anything else after this. A pal of mine had this and realized he would never get around to building it. He has plenty of other things going on. He offered it to me so, why not? I have built and raced a 750 in the past so it is fairly familiar.
The project did come with all the big parts to build it; gas tank, seat, front fender, lots of pipes and pieces but a lot of it needs repair work. The engine is already built and ready to go. The bike is a project and needs most everything figured out. First up is decide what forks to use, then what brakes, then axles, spacers etc to make a roller.
I have a set of 40mm Forcella forks with Spondon triples, and a 36mm TX750 front end which looks a lot like the original TZ forks after some clean up of the triple clamps. The TX forks would use stock Yamaha RD/TZ type calipers that I have.
I also have a pair of stock TZ wire wheels with the bike.
Wow! Might as well go out with a big BANG.........................D
:eek: :metal:
-everyone is jealous.
:bacon: :bacon: :bacon:
Don't be too jealous, it ain't gonna be cheap......
This is a mock-up pic before I got the bike.
First up is decide what forks to use. I like the 36mm TX front end because it looks almost stock, but the steering stem is too long. But then a miracle occurred and an RD steering stem is exactly the right length. So press out the TX stem and press in and weld the RD stem to the TX lower triple clamp.
The other option is the 40mm Forcella forks which are better parts than the Yamaha forks, with the adjustable trail Spondon triple clamps They have adjustable spring compression and dampening.
I'll be watching this unique epic build Mark! Can't wait to see it running and in person. :olaf: :righteous:
Quote from: Evans Ward on September 09, 2022, 09:27:54 PM
I'll be watching this unique epic build Mark! Can't wait to see it running and in person. :olaf: :righteous:
Hopefully it will be ready for the DG meet next year.
Quote from: Mgmark on September 09, 2022, 08:53:21 PM
First up is decide what forks to use. I like the 36mm TX front end because it looks almost stock, but the steering stem is too long..................
The other option is the 40mm Forcella forks which are better parts than the Yamaha forks. They have adjustable spring compression and dampening.
Here's my take on this, and for the record I tend to overthink and make stuff like this a big deal.
Since you have both, use the best ones you have which sound like the 40mm. You aren't doing a concourse restoration(not that the tx would work for that anyways) and in the end there are very few that will even know. The ones that would would most likely know the TX aren't original as well.
If it was a factory frame and you were questioning using factory forks then the decision would be different.
Mark,
How are you doing a long time no speak and yes I am envious... I agree with Oxford, given it's a C&J I would use the better forks. once you get it assembled just take it to Bigley and have him do a set of pipes for you from a Swarbrick kit.
Yes, after messing about back and forth I agree the 40mm forks with Spondon triples are the way to go. They are the better parts. Of course that means making up caliper mounts to fit and axle spacers, etc but overall probably the better choice.
The bike isn't original Yamaha so I think I can do whatever I want without hurting value. There is a story about this frame as to who had it first but since there are no frame numbers there is no way to verify any history.
The bike came with two complete sets of pipes, including an original set of D/E/F pipes, and another set in pieces. Rusty is the go-to guy to have pipes made but that is a ways down the road. A lot of other decisions need to come first.
C&J frames came out as a replacement for original A/B/C twin shock 750s so it will probably be a mix and match for what components fit are early and some later model.
I can't wait to see you work your magic on this one my friend.
It's official. I hate you now. :eek: Or loosely translated I am jealous as ......
You know it will never be half the bike of that other beauty hiding under a cover because she is modest and didn't want the new girl to feel bad.
C&J frames: I have one for a TZ250/350 and for sure, no frame number anywhere so it's impossible to be sure of any provenance.
Forks and suspension you will work out. What barrels are on that motor - 40970 would be original twin shock and 40970 or 40971 are CDE full 750cc. And if it has six port transfer port barrels (OW31 or replicas), I will be even more jealous.
Great project.
The motor has a 40970 750cc top end with fresh plating. The cases are replacements so no numbers there. It has fresh Hoekle cranks in it. So the motor is ready to go. I'm going to run 34mm round slide Mikunis that came with it. I had Lectrons on my first 750 but all that stuff went with the bike when I sold it. The rest of the bike is just deciding what cycle parts and making everything work as a unit.
I decided to run TZ brake disks with the Spondon calipers. It should stop pretty well. I need to make caliper hangers to fit the forks.
Mark
Rear brake options: I have a small Brembo caliper and hanger, with a semi-floating disc that needs some spacers made up to work, or a stock TZ monoshock caliper hanger that uses an RD/TZ type caliper, and RD diameter brake disc. I have these parts laying around to test fit. The TZ alloy caliper and brake disc can be had to use for a correct assembly.
Needs an alloy caliper for sure.
Nice Spondon floating rear disk. Had one like that on a client's Rotax powered spondon years ago
Did the 750 use an RD type large rear disk and not solid steel that the 350 came with? I never stopped to look at a rear disk before. I always get stuck drooling at the powerplant.
40970 are good. Does Vince @ Fondseca still sell replica 6 transfer port barrels?
Quote from: teazer on September 11, 2022, 04:20:15 PM
Needs an alloy caliper for sure.
Nice Spondon floating rear disk. Had one like that on a client's Rotax powered spondon years ago
Did the 750 use an RD type large rear disk and not solid steel that the 350 came with? I never stopped to look at a rear disk before. I always get stuck drooling at the powerplant.
40970 are good. Does Vince @ Fondseca still sell replica 6 transfer port barrels?
More power, that's what I need! After the bike is finished I might start looking for the six port cylinders, but they are fairly rare and pricey.
The twin shock 750 used a large rear disc the same as on the front of the bike. The monoshock bikes used a smaller disc the same diameter as an RD, but like the front was much thinner and has extra holes.
Yes I'll be putting an alloy caliper and TZ disc on it if I don't go with the Brembo set-up, but I probably will go with the Yamaha bits for simplicity and I think it looks better.
Here is a pic of my first 750 with the original rear brakes. Big discs all around. And a pic of a monoshock type rear brake.
Front caliper mounts for the Spondon calipers to the Forcella forks. I'm using original TZ brake discs but XS rotors are the same diameter, just thicker (and heavier) and don't have holes.
I start with a cardboard pattern, then a thin alloy or plywood pattern to give it stiffness and get it closer, then a real mount in the final thickness. Be sure to check the caliper is centered over the disc and shim it if necessary.
Simply gorgeous!
I once heard 'you know why divorce is expensive? because its worth it'
i think that applies to a TZ750 project as well. :devil: :toot:
I feel the same as Teazer. This is the only other motorcycle on my bucket list.
Rob
It's a roller. I'm thinking I want to run just an upper fairing, so let me know if you guys have any ideas. Something with a headlight.
I've got the same handlebars on a rz500 with r1 forks. I think the upper fairing is same as an rz350 that came with full fairing. Should be a good fit.
Luke
considering the size of the bike, id consider a dunstall if it would fit the bar locations. would be different and not hide the motor.
I was thinking maybe a TZ750 Endurance fairing upper, or an FZ600. After it is further along I'll have a better idea what might look good.
Next up is figure out what pipes to use. I need to hang them so I know how the foot controls fit, and then the rear brake master cylinder. What I do now effects how other things fit later on.
I have two good sets of pipes with the bike when I got it. One is a stock set of D/E/F pipes, the other is a round set of unknown origin. Both sets interfere #1 pipe with a seat support frame tube so that will need to be dealt with. The D/E/F pipes seem to fit better and provide better foot control clearance. The round pipes look like they may be better performance but I will need to make new silencers for them.
Rear frame loop to add seat height for legroom, and a place to add tail light and license plate mount.
I rebuilt the silencers with new alloy tube and steel for the perforated core from Online Metals. I'm re-using the end caps. It takes a while to drill all those holes and then wrap them with packing.
Excellent work my friend :patriot: :patriot:
suggestion on the silencer: weld a strengthening rib or bar along the top of the baffle core to prevent it from internally breaking. I know, its strong now but theres no harm and a broken baffle tube can lunch a cyl quick. late FPP cans were built this way for this very reason. :twocents:
I laced up a new 2.5" rim on the front wheel to get some wider rubber up front. I like a solid feeling front tire. I also bled up the brakes front and rear but I'm still dinking around with where to put the rear m/cyl. I probably moved it five times already to see what lines up and works best. I also ran all the cables I have for it so now I have a working throttle and clutch after modifying the adjuster a little.
Mark, this is such a cool project! Exotic, over-the-top impractical and drenched in two-stroke history (mythology?)! Love it, and I hope I read it right that you elected to go with the round pipes, as I find them astronomically more aesthetically pleasing :bacon: :bacon:
Yep I've pretty much decided on using the round pipes.
I've been doing small jobs. I had to lengthen the shifter 2" to fit my size 12 foot. Luckily I had another lever I could cut off longer and put the two together. Since they are hollow I tapped the inside for a threaded rod (cut off bolt) and screwed the two together. I'll weld it whenever I take it off later.
I also had to lengthen the seat upholstery pan to fit this seat. The seat is a replica of the monoshock TZ seat but 3" longer. It was part of a set with a shorter than stock TZ250 tank on my old RD250 race bike. I ordered the fiberglass upholstery pan from airtech, then cut it and added a 3" section to match the seat length. I cut some dense foam to fit. Now I need some stretchy vinyl to cover the pan, then attach it to the seat after painting.
This project just makes me grin. Carry on. :righteous:
Gas tank repair. I have three gas tanks with the bike. One is a twin shock tank with no shock tunnel so it is out. One is a monoshock tank with some nasty welded crash repair, no gas cap mount, and a huge hole where a quick fill receiver was. The third one is kinda lumpy from crash damage on the right side/corner, and the gas cap mount area is pushed in. Both mono tanks have had the back two inches cut off so they fit the frame where there is a cross member/seat mount. Luckily the cut off sections are with the bike stuff.
I think it is easier to move one small frame tube than to try and make the tank look right with the back end modified. So now that tube is moved back the 2" needed for the stock tank to fit properly.
I dropped off the tank to the welder and he attached the back piece, and did some repair where the right front corner was mashed in. He did it for me in two days and pressure checked it for leaks. I sat the tank out in the sun until it was too hot to handle and used a three jaw internal puller to pull the gas cap mount area back up. It's about 95% ok now. The paint guy can make it look pretty.
There aren't any original fuel taps or copies available anywhere, so I had to make an adapter plate to use a Pingel. I use quick disconnects also. I had to buy a new repop gas cap and latch parts.
It's always something with these projects.
I hung the shiny new ebay radiator that came with the bike and discovered it is useless. All of the hose inlets and outlet are too small in diameter , there is no fitting for the thermostat bypass hose, and the mounts don't line up because the upper tank hits the frame. Useless.
After a phone call to Bill Howarth in England I bought a very nice used original twin shock type radiator since that's the type of mounts on the frame. He also stocks new formed rubber coolant lines for the 750. The other hoses can be made from straight heater hose, and the two upper hoses are automotive 90 degree curved heater hoses that I cut to fit the length.
So other than still needing a coolant temp gauge to plug the hole in the head that's the cooling system finished. Except the upper mounts don't line up to the frame because this rad hits too. The C&J frame tubes have a different curve behind the steering head from original Yamaha, so the top rad tank hits. I'll have to look at that later.
Time to look at the original ignition system and see if there are sparklers. I have three lower units but only one CDI box. I spun the back wheel and guess what -no spark. I checked the stator and it measures out ok, but the CDI box is bad. I can send it off to England to have it rebuilt, or buy a completely new system. I went with new. The Electrex World CDI system uses two dual output coils. It is basically twin 2-cylinder ignitions. Now I have sparks.
It lives! It started immediately on the rollers. I tried it first very briefly with no water just to make sure I had everything connected correctly, in case something would need to come apart again. Then I added water and tried it again. There are a couple of annoying small water leaks but otherwise everything works as it should. I ran it a second time to get some heat into it, just enough to move the temp gauge.
I need to tidy up the steering neck area. There is a lot going on up there and stuff is getting pinched before the steering lock. I'll have to do some rearranging/re-routing. I think I decided on an 80s FZ600 fairing upper. I like the dual headlights, and that I can get a fairing, the mount, headlights, mirrors, etc fairly inexpensively. I have an LED tail light coming.
After I have the fairing figured out I can send all the body parts out to be painted. I'm thinking the RD400 French Blue. Then I'll strip the bike back down so I can do something about the upper rad mounts that don't line up, and I need to make the front engine mounts that weren't with the bike when I bought it. Then take the frame to the welder and have him put some nice welds on my brackets that I just have tacked on the frame. Lots of small stuff still to do.
I couldn't attach a video clip here so I had to use Flickr
https://flic.kr/p/2nU9XEa
YES! awesome!
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/MISC-BS/go-on.gif)
:righteous:
:righteous: :righteous:
I second that.
Mark, I've got body work from an 86-88 fz 400 in decent shape. Let me know if you're interested, I'll send you some pics.......................D
Very cool Mark- sounds great! :olaf: :metal:
YES YES YES
FZ600 fairing looks like it will fit pretty well. The size and shape are good. I'll have to make a new tach and temp gauge mount to work with the FZ fairing mount, and hopefully it all fits behind the headlights. I'll convert the headlights to LED since I'm going to have to run a total loss lighting system.
I'm making an FZ to TZ fairing mount. I'm not going to cut the original 750 fairing/tach mount. I also have another TZ mount that uses a separate gauge mounting I can cut and adapt to the FZ mount. I'll just have to make a gauge mount panel for the tach and temp gauges. It looks like I need to raise the tach as high as I can to make room so the handlebars don't hit when turning. I also found some LED replacement bulbs for the H4 in there now.
I'm still looking for a windscreen and mirrors.
The fairing choice looks great! You know, Shane's Kaw KR250 has the FZ600 fairing on it.
I spent a day trying to make everything fit between the headlights and the handlebars when they turn. There is maybe 1" of free room between them. I have the gauge mount length and shape pretty well figured out. The tach just touches the headlight rubber at the back, and the bars miss the front of the tach by about 1/2".
Everything is packed in tight on these bikes. The steering dampener interferes with where I want to mount the CDI box on the left side. I might have to move it up on the gauge mount if the bars won't hit it there. The dampener has only one exact spot it can mount and not interfere with the fork leg, or the spark plug, or run out of travel. Every part effects where other parts fit and work on this thing.
wow thats 10 lbs of sausage in a 5 lb bag.
How about changing the mechanical tacho arrangement to a modern Single Speedo/tacho etc to free up the space. Does that ignition have a tacho output. If not I imported a few CDI tacho adapters that might work. I tested them with a Motoplat and stock Hitachi CDI IIRC and they do the job.
But back to the point, a single unit would mount off the top triple with a little work and could eliminate that mounting plate and open up the space. Or perhaps drop the speedo/tacho head unit down below the clipon risers down where a stock tacho goes.
Hey Mark, it's all about how you pack the sausage!
I have it all in there, full steering lock both sides and nothing pinches anywhere. I like the look of the original gauges (esp the tach) so I really wanted to get it figured out. Nothing left to do now but replace the final template with a permanent part, and clean up the cut off places on the fairing bracket.
I think it is time to call the painter.
that all looks really great.
:celebrate:
no speedo?
I started on electrics today. I made a bracket and mounted the LED tail light, bought and mounted the battery under the seat, and swapped out the H4 headlight bulbs for LEDs. I'm waiting for the lighting switch to show up and I will start making the wiring harness. I had the three prong sockets in my box O electric junk so I wired the headlights together and tested them.
I've been working on building the wiring harness for all the lighting. It's pretty simple with just an on/off to power all the accessory electrics, and a lighting/horn/signals handlebar switch. All of the lighting is LED except the front signals. It takes some time to run each component and solder terminals.
Everything works now, the horn will blast you.
https://flic.kr/p/2nZ3DK5
Too bad winter just hit or I'd try a road test.
I had some free time so I moved the upper radiator mounts where they will work, and today I made the missing front motor mounts. Yamaha used 1/8 steel on the original TZ mounts so I did the same. It's the usual process; cardboard template, then cut out a solid pattern, make adjustments if needed, then cut metal. I happened to have some plastic sheet that worked perfect for a pattern. Surprisingly the right mount has about a 1/2" offset. The left one is flat.
I spoke with the painter and he will be ready for me in two weeks. So I guess I'll go ahead and pull it apart to finish welding.
Nothing much happening lately. The frame is at the welder's, and body work is off being painted RD400 French blue. I resisted the urge to do the usual yellow/speed blocks, or white with red stripe. It's been too cold to work in the garage anyway. Only four months left to be ready for Deal's Gap meet!
We got that massive cold snap in the NE (and I think many other places) and I went through all my fuel for heating my shop in like 5 days. I ponied up for more fuel, now it is 60 degrees. That's some BS.
Yeah it was pretty bad here for a week. When it is in single digits with wind chills in the negative numbers the garage isn't gonna get warmed up enough to do anything.
On the plus side I got the frame back yesterday.
I put the frame on the motor today, and maybe some suspension. It's a tight fit so it is much easier to sit the engine on its side and slide the frame onto it. I spoke with the painter today. That might be done in a coupe of weeks.
Less that four months to go until the 2-stroke meet!
i absolutely can NOT wait to see this thing in person. :cheerleader: :whoop:
Quote from: m in sc on January 17, 2023, 01:56:19 PM
i absolutely can NOT wait to see this thing in person. :cheerleader: :whoop:
For sure!! :thumbs: It might be the rarest and most exotic 2 stroke ever to be at the Deal's Gap Meet! Can't wait to see it, hear it, and take some pics and video of it running!
pretty sure this tops the clive 5 (5 cyl h2). and jims 4 cyl H2. we finally made the big time !! TZ! woop!
I'm trying to remember in what order things went together. I shoulda taken more pics! I'm waiting on fork rake/trail adjustment spacers now.
Quote from: m in sc on January 17, 2023, 03:07:01 PM
pretty sure this tops the clive 5 (5 cyl h2). and jims 4 cyl H2. we finally made the big time !! TZ! woop!
Yep- I saw both of those. :olaf: Very cool in their own way! And.... Let's not leave out Shane's rare Kawasaki KR250 out either. :omg:. I heard him explain the bike and motor configuration so often at the Gap that I covered for him when he wasn't there for curious onlookers. And, my presentation as Retro3/ Shane approved! :thumbs:
I can't wait to hear it :olaf: :olaf: :olaf: :olaf:
Making progress again, hopefully final assembly. I'm waiting on a bunch of new hardware to replace all the manky old stuff I used to mock up the bike. Also waiting on the bodywork to come back from paint. Otherwise I think I have everything I need here.
I'm making pretty good progress on the reassembly. I still need to mount all the ignition components and some other small parts. New hardware should be here tomorrow.
I found these nice little UNI filters with an angled mount so they clear the pipes.
My painter emailed me about the paint color. I asked for RD400 French Blue but every formula he tried came out too purple, even the custom mixed paint from suppliers using the supposed correct formula. He ended up eyeballing it himself. I don't think it could be any closer than he did by eye.
It should all be finished up pretty soon now that he has the color.
That does look spot on for French Blue.
I love that color :righteous: :righteous:
Mark, that is gonna be one "Bitchin" Yamaha!
yeah man, thats going to be cool. white tz stripes or?
Quote from: m in sc on January 26, 2023, 01:55:20 PM
yeah man, thats going to be cool. white tz stripes or?
I don't know about stripes yet, but the name graphics are white. I'll have to see how it looks after it's together.
Quote from: m in sc on January 26, 2023, 01:55:20 PM
yeah man, thats going to be cool. white tz stripes or?
You called it Mark!
Looking soo nice!! :thumbs:
dammit. i need a minute. :eek: :notworthy: :drool:
That looks cool. Well done! :clap:
I love it!!! :righteous: :righteous: :righteous:
I'm working on a side stand of some sort now. I don't want to have to lean it up against the stone wall at the Gap overlook.
-Options are one of those removable motocross type triangle shape wire stands that insert into the end of the rear axle, but that's too far back for a bike of this weight. I'm sure it wouldn't be stable. And you have to carry it with you somehow.
-Option two is maybe something like the dirt bike stand, but with a tube instead of the peg into the rear axle, that would slide over the footpeg. This would be further forward so better weight distribution-wise, but I'd still have to carry it around.
-I'm thinking I'll have to come up with a real stand that bolts to the frame. It would be sturdier and weight centered better, and stays with the bike. The only problem is there aren't many frame bolts to attach it to, and it would have to clear the shift lever.
Ideas are welcome!
I would hypothesize or guess that the frame tube is much lighter gauge that the average street bike frame. That bike isn't very heavy, fortunately, so you might get away with adding a half tube to that bottom rail and weld the stand to that "outer tube" to spread the load.
Quote from: teazer on February 08, 2023, 11:38:30 PM
I would hypothesize or guess that the frame tube is much lighter gauge that the average street bike frame. That bike isn't very heavy, fortunately, so you might get away with adding a half tube to that bottom rail and weld the stand to that "outer tube" to spread the load.
You're right, the frame tubing is of a thinner gauge than a street bike. I like this idea better than drilling the frame for a second mounting bolt.
I can't help but wonder how you will start it at the Overlook. I guess run beside it and hop onto the seat? Or always have a buddy with you to push?
look at triumph speed triple stands they come with a flat plate, that will bolt to anothe rflat plate welded to a frame. they are light, plentiful, and decent looking. I have one on my lightweight.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/394451397669?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=uehhc-9pt1i&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=9DXeqLNdSLW&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on February 09, 2023, 09:47:04 AM
I can't help but wonder how you will start it at the Overlook. I guess run beside it and hop onto the seat? Or always have a buddy with you to push?
Tim, it's going to be the old run and bump. Luckily it is downhill there.
Quote from: m in sc on February 09, 2023, 10:11:52 AM
look at triumph speed triple stands they come with a flat plate, that will bolt to anothe rflat plate welded to a frame. they are light, plentiful, and decent looking. I have one on my lightweight.
Hey Mark, those look good. Honda CBR and the Kawasaki Ninja stand I have now are a lot the same. Can you get me a measurement on yours from foot to pivot center?
mine was extended about an inch or 1.25" for the lightweight since it mounts on the motor (no frame tube). theres a bracket i made that goe tot eh lower case bolts that holds it on, so its way up there.
currently at 11 inches pivot to foot.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/lightweight-rd/lightweight-sidestand.jpeg)
Ok thanks Mark. I had to extend the side stand I made for my H2. I'll have to do the same on the TZ.
I just about have the side stand figured out. I can use the one engine mount bolt, and the other is a stud welded to a piece of half round tubing the same ID as the frame OD. It seems very sturdy but if it tries to move any I can plug weld the half round to the bike frame in a couple of spots.
I still need to lengthen the stand about 3" and maybe angle it in just a bit so it rests nearer the pipe.
The paintwork is finish so I'll be picking that up this week.
Excellent!!!
I have all the painted parts back now. I don't know how he got the tank straight. It was pretty lumpy.
:righteous: : :righteous:
:olaf: wow.
My painter pal gave me an RD350 side stand to use for the bike. It fits perfect, tucks in well, doesn't get in the way of the shifter, and is the right length. All I had to do was move the spring perch around to the front.
Excellent :thumbs: :thumbs:
There are still a lot of small jobs. The rear gas tank strap bracket will be next.
Absolutely Bad-Ass :righteous: :righteous:
The side stand mount is finished.
Looks perfect.
This thing is unbelievably fantastic. :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:
Today I tried fitting the gas tank with the petcock and ran into trouble. I didn't have the tank here when I first installed the foam air filters so I wasn't aware there isn't room for the petcock and the #2 air filter in the same space. Or the fuel lines from the tank for that matter. So I had to shorten the air filter about 3/4" in length to make a pocket for the petcock, and rotate the petcock towards the inside so the fuel lines exit towards the middle of the bike. Then re-route fuel lines to clear the shock and don't lay on the exhaust pipe. This was an hour and a half spent for something I thought was finished.
yup. thats what eats time every time is that detail stuff. looks good though. :cheerleader:
I spent all day today doing little stuff like routing wiring, zip tying stuff out of the way and hanging the fairing. It's getting close to time to start it. I still need to get some vinyl for a seat cover.
It turns out the stock Yamaha rubber tank straps don't reach anywhere near the tank. I can probably make a rear bracket to where it will reach, but the front is way too short to stretch that far. Any ideas out there?
Mark, how wide is that tank strap? I may have something suitable from one of my parts bikes.
It's a hair over 2" wide, and 2-3/4" long
The front looks like it will make it. I tried looking at some google pics and I see some of those straps stretched pretty far on the 750s.
Where did the rear originally attach to on those bikes, frame or bracket in the seat? I have a factory tz350 tank on my RD and put the mounting tab in the frame but the mount on the tank is a lot lower than your tank from the looks of the picture.
FWIW, I went and looked at what I did. I have the strap stretched to around 4" .
The rear strap bracket bolts to the front of the seat with a hook along the front edge for the strap to mount to. I need to make the bracket so I can give it some height and the rear strap should work. I'll have to look around for something to fit the front.
Thanks
What will the "stretched" distance be on the front strap be if you use it as is?
I think the tz350 may have used the same bracket for the rear??? Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure the seat I have came with a molded in bracket for the strap. I think I cut it off because I was worried about having a secure enough mount for the seat to use it and ended up just welding it on the frame.
It will be right at 3-3/4" stretched on the front. The 750 uses a different seat strap bracket than the 250/350. I have seen seats with the bracket molded into the forward edge so no extra bracket needed.
The rear tank strap mount is done. I still haven't come up with what to do about the front.
The TZ doesn't have idle screws in the carbs. Is it worth drilling and tapping the carb bodies, and replacing the slides for idle screws. These will idle at about 1500 rpm.
Quote from: Mgmark on February 23, 2023, 10:50:53 AM
The rear tank strap mount is done. I still haven't come up with what to do about the front.
If you don't want to stretch it that far, can you cut the the metal clip out of the strap and bend a longer one up out of some stainless rod? It's hard to tell how much room you have from the frame mount until you run into rubbing on the tank if you go that route.
This is a good idea if I can find the wire. I'm pretty sure I can get the length I need without getting into the tank. The wire clips are open ended so they will come out of the rubber and can be replaced.
Mark,
I don't know much about real race bikes. That being said, if it idles consistently at 1500 and the take off is OK I would likely leave it be. I doubt it will idle much slower than that if you go through all that for the sake of 200-300 RPMS.
Hey Tim, they don't idle at all on their own. You have to keep the throttle cracked like idle screws would do. They don't like running much below 1500. I'd rather not mod original TZ carbs, and slides aren't cheap. As little as it will be ridden I'm leaning towards leaving it as is.
Quote from: Mgmark on February 23, 2023, 05:39:19 PM
This is a good idea if I can find the wire.
Wire clip on the strap is 2.5mm. Use either a 3/32" or an 1/8" piece of TIG filler rod. If you want to go that route and have a hard time, send me a PM of what you need and I can bend something up. I have filler rod here.
Ok thanks, I'll see what I can find.
Another albeit cave man approach would be to drill a hole in the throttle tube housing and thread it. Then put a bolt with a spring and e-clip on it like the early H2s had for the dangerous cruise control nobody used. It might be handy for warm ups or any extended idle situations so you won't have to keep it alive blipping the throttle and be able to walk away and leave it idling.
:olaf:
a 'warmup' simple throttle lock isnt a bad idea actually.
I'm thinking the same thing. It would make it easier to keep running while getting it off the rollers, and warm up. Good idea Tim!
Thanks... even a blind squirrel like me finds an acorn once in a while.
Quote from: Mgmark on February 23, 2023, 05:56:42 PM
Hey Tim, they don't idle at all on their own. You have to keep the throttle cracked like idle screws would do. They don't like running much below 1500. I'd rather not mod original TZ carbs, and slides aren't cheap. As little as it will be ridden I'm leaning towards leaving it as is.
It might make it harder to start if the slides dont close all the way. I'm thinking back to easy stall cr500's and if you made them idle they got harder to restart
I picked up a roll of hard stainless wire in the same diameter (.100") as the stock tank strap. I bent up a new loop the length I need and hit it on the buffing wheel a minute. The front tank strap is done.
^ clever solution there Mark! :thumbs:
Excellent solution :olaf:
Nice! As good as OE! :clap:
First road test! I took it down off the work stand and got it ready. I checked all the controls for fit and only needed the shifter adjusted down a little, and the throttle grip glued to the tube. Gas, checked for leaks, looks good. Wheeled out the starter rollers and hooked them up. First spin and nothing, so I figured maybe I have the CDI boxes swapped side to side. I tried that and it lit right up so I re-labeled them. I let it warm up a little and headed up the driveway hill. I have the smallest c/shaft gear I have on the bike, and first is very tall. I managed to get it up to third just to make sure the gears were there. At the turn around at the end of my street it started to blubber and I saw #2 carb was puking the overflow. So rocket back up the hill to the house and shut it off to cool.
First impression is that I actually fit on the bike pretty well and the mirrors are usable. The RD side stand works great. The front brakes work really well but the rear brake doesn't do much. The bike is probably too much for the street, but I knew that going in. It is like my RD500LC was only more so. I think DG is going to be all second gear unless I can find a bigger rear sprocket.
The problem I have is once I'm up the hill to the top of my driveway, it's all downhill for the next mile. If a bike flames out there is no way I can push it back to the house, so I need to be reasonably sure it is running good enough to try it.
:metal: :metal: :metal: :metal:
Righteous
I'm keeping these plug boxes
B7? :eek:
ok to warm it up but maybe 10s for when you ring its neck.
:thumbs: Fantastic. Seems like a reasonable first run. Looking forward to more.
Quote from: teazer on March 07, 2023, 10:58:24 PM
B7? :eek:
ok to warm it up but maybe 10s for when you ring its neck.
There will be no neck wringing! I can't afford to ventilate the cases at a track day. The 7s will be ok for now burping around town on the needles. Once the bike is sorted and usable for fast rides then probably 9s. On the street it will rarely see full throttle for any length of time. There just isn't that much straight road around here.
:clap: :cool:
russ. fly out to the gap. you can bask in the 750s glory. :whistle:
Quote from: m in sc on March 08, 2023, 02:36:47 PM
russ. fly out to the gap. you can bask in the 750s glory. :whistle:
I would love to and had considered doing it this year, but I think it's now too late to add it to my schedule.
I sent you a PM back in Sept to get some info on the event and logistics but never heard back so I kind of pushed the idea to the back burner. Maybe next May? It sure looks like a lot of fun with a really cool group!
^ Russ- plan on making next years meet! We'd love to have you and you'd be right at home. I'm trying to talk Ken from Cali to attend next year too.
Mark- how's the TZ coming along? Sure hope it will be ready and will make it to the Gap. Less than 10 days now...
Quote from: Evans Ward on April 26, 2023, 09:57:52 AM
Mark- how's the TZ coming along? Sure hope it will be ready and will make it to the Gap. Less than 10 days now...
Hey Evans, the TZ is finished as far as I know, although I haven't ridden it again. I'm planning on starting it again this weekend for another look over before the meet and I hope nothing new shows up. I guessed at jetting and will probably make some changes once I'm at the Gap and ride it for real. I'm bringing tools.
Are there any confirmed plans for the Cycle Drag guys to come out this year? I don't want to miss it like I did last year.
Mark
Far as i know carl has it locked down. i'll text him and ask.
DEF COMING, JUST NOT SURE WHAT DAY. :gentleman:
I think it is finished. It's not often you can say that about a project but there is nothing else I want to do to the bike.
Congratulations. The bike is absolutely awesome.
man that was good to hear run and see being ridden. :love eyes:
Quote from: m in sc on May 13, 2023, 11:02:48 PM
man that was good to hear run and see being ridden. :love eyes:
Thanks Mark, that's what they're for, to be ridden. Or else why build projects?
See ya next year!
Mark