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Fore sale at $200, seems high. Bent? $100?

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/mpo/d/dittmer-yamaha-rd250-motor/7051053370.html
Not mine.

I have a decent top half, will it work with any good bottom half? Do the cases get matched at the factory when produced?

Is this thing garbage? Run, repair, or replace?

Do people have these lying around in piles, or are they getting scarce? I'm collecting stuff for a spare engine just cuz I like to. Considering the cost of a pro rebuild, what would you pay for one in unknown condition?

Parts bike in my town, Carterville Illinois, if anyone is interested I might be getting the frame, bottom end and wheels. No title. Any interest?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Yamaha-R5C-2-STROKE-STREET-RACER-CAFE/174166157010?hash=item288d1ca6d2:g:p2YAAOSwwUJeKMN4

https://peoria.craigslist.org/mcy/d/galesburg-simplex-automatic/7050465066.html

The distributor shaft is leaking from the outer end inward of where the starter wheel pin is.  There seems to be some kind of plug that moved inward when poked.  Anyone ever seen that, or fixed it?  I'm thinking some JB Weld or epoxy will do it.

Anybody think this is worth having? Kinda big and what will it do that a digital multimeter won't, beside the timing light?

Days are getting longer now, so, out we go; "we" being me and "The Skunk".
Noticed a small crack right at the small end of can today. Nothing lasts forever.

This cover came with a project bike and I'm wondering how critical the flatness of this surface is. It's where the kickshaft comes through and the washer over the spring retainer clip rests.

Tighten your nuts with the proper part orientation. Thought something sounded kinda funny in there.
This is what happens when the primary gear washer is on backward, with no locktite! The smoke was watching over me, as the threads on the crank were only clogged with aluminum and not stripped or mangled.    The nut didn't fare quite as well.  May try to tap it or clean up with a pick, as only one or two spots got smashed.   Main shaft input nut behind the clutch was pretty loose, also. Thanks SUPERTUNE for the torque values.

Stripped a bolt/screw hole in the pressure plate.  Helicoil or toss it?

Is there a way to get the pump off an R5 without pulling the clutch cover?  Screws are out but it seems reluctant to come loose of engine. 

Fired up ol' Rusty and his oil pump has started clicking. Anybody know what causes that? Smokes more since it started clicking. I wanna ride!

There are no cushion rings in the clutch that came on the decaf project. Is this some kind of magical clutch kit that eliminates the need for the o rings between the plate sets?
And why does the manual show seven steel plates and six friction plates on the early clutches, while members here say six plate clutches have six steel plates? 
I'm so confused!
P.s. There's also no thrust plate (1)! #16 in the pics

There was a melted connector between stator wires and what appears to be an aftermarket harness. The wire gauge looks a size smaller.  I'm hoping a modern charge controller will help with LEDs and extra current. Anyone else have good results with that?

So I opened this new project motor today and there are no knock pins on the crank bearings. What's up with that? May not be the original motor to the bike? Rd motor?

Tried all the basic stuff. Is there anything that can happen to cause this when the cam stopper is removed, for instance if someone thought it was the drain plug and something slid over on the shift cam while stopper was out?
Right side engine cover is off, shift linkage and cam both move, but won't  engage gears.