Carb questions..

[LMS]

Is that a vent of some sort, if so, do they make these little elbows?
Float bowls-are they the same besides the different vent on the bottom? The pix is of the inside of the choke bowl.
Thx

[rded]

The top pic is a vent for the float chamber and the float bowl one is the overflow in the event of an incorrectly set or stuck float.

Wait RD350. The top is oil injection I think

Google mikuni carb vent elbow . They're available.

[LMS]

It's a Vent. The bike runs premix and the injection tubes on side on carbs have been pinched. I filed the plastic down and I'm now able to slip a hose over it.
I took both bowls off, again, and matched them up. Looks like the choke bowl has some sort of jet in it.
Thx.

[rded]

Make sure that the float bowl pictured installs on the LH carb with the choke lever. The RH bowl does not have that "hole" at the bottom.

[m in sc]

its an orifice yes, just make sure its clear. Enrichener (chocke) feed bowl on LH side of motor. you can actually drill a small hole on the same spot on the rh bowl and never have to worry about mixing them up as well. doesnt have to be an exact size.

[LMS]

Thx all. The reason why I took the carbs off, again, is because we finally got some good weather, and I was going to take it on its maiden voyage. I started it up numerous times in the garage. Somewhat adjusted the airscrews, etc. and it idled pretty darn good. Kicked over 1st or second time. Wheeled it out and into sun and it was a bear to kick it over. Finally caught, but it was like it almost dropped the right cylinder. If I gave it any throttle, it bogged like crazy. If I turned the airscrews in, it stated to idle better, but enough of that noise. It had 30 pilot jets in it. Took carbs apart, found out the washers under main jets were installed wrong, put new ones in, but everything else looked good, not dirty at all. Put 32.5's in as well. Then I stated searching. I rebuilt the gas cap; new rubber and they were pre-drilled for venting. When I have time, going to put carbs back on this weekend, but is there a specific way to install the rubber gaskets, vent hole(s) wise?  I took the gas cap apart and I can't see anything out of sorts.

[4schizzle]

The top pic is the oil injection nozzle.  It is not a vent. If the bike runs premix i would cap it with vacuum cap. If it does not run premix you need a new one and a ensure that the oil line is connected to the pump.  I confused the float bowls when working on mine.  The left or choke side float bowl bottom vent faces forward.  The right side float bowl bottom vent points down. 

[m in sc]

The top pic is the oil injection nozzle.  It is not a vent.

this is incorrect. it uses the same fitting as an oil injection nozzle but it it 100% a bowl vent.

the oil injection nozzle on that carb would be on the other side of it

[LMS]

Now I know why people just put these in a corner and well, forget about them. I have no idea what happened from a week ago to yesterday. It started once today on choke, turned choke off after a bit and it died. Would not start after that. Put in new plugs, swapped batteries, nothing.It started frickn great last weekend. The only thing I did was move timing from 2.0 to 1.8, or maybe I f ed that up. Not sure how as it stated fine last week after I did that. Going to bite the bullet and get a dial indicator for the heck of it.

[m in sc]

it either flooded due to a seeping patcock and the crankcase has alot of fuel, or its dead empty in the carbs. these will start well even w the timing wildly off.

[LMS]

Ok, so I'll go the route that it may be flooded. Pull plugs, kick like a mad dog for a while, put em back in, hope for the best. When one does this, is it also best to hold the throttle wide open until it catches. Or just put plugs in after and give the crap out of it?

[4schizzle]

Sorry i was wrong.  The oil injection nozzle is on the left side of the carb on my RD.  Mine is missing this fitting on the right side. 

[m in sc]

yes, try that, while the plugs are out, verify spark.

dont worry, its a common mistake on the fitting. i mean, its the exact same one. lol

[LMS]

That worked! Started right up. Synched carbs, adjusted idle, fiddled with airscrews which seemed to be best at around 1.5, will mess with them more on the road later on. Took her for her first cruise and she rips! But there are some serious things that need to be ironed out.
First, not serious, need to adjust clutch as it lets out too late for my taste.
Second, the way I have the rear sets right now, there is no way I could lock up the rear wheel if I wanted to. At full push I'm getting maybe 25%, feels like Im getting not enough leverage, or they are shot. Will have to muck with that. Might go with a cable conversion if possible.
Front brake, it works, but the caliper needs rebuilding or replaced, sticking. I'm getting scraping even when brakes are not applied, but plenty of meat on pads when I took it off a while back, cleaned, and flushed.
Last but not least. I need some serious seat time on the thing. I like driving fast, but this aint no car and I'm rusty as hell. Driving around back streets of Chicago isn't very safe, or a good place to re-learn.

Oh yeah, the Dogster pipes. Like I stated before, I really don't have much to go on, but they sound great and they zing. They fit without any issues at all. They aren't as refined as JL's or spec, but I like the semi raw look of them. Much better than those power pipes I had.

[m in sc]

  

good deal. def get the brakes looked into.if the brake sdragging, can be the master as well.

I'll be honest, when i rebuild an RD caliper, i always leave the 'dust' seal off, they trap more water than anything IMHO.

if the caliper seals are causing the drag, its usually crud under the main piston seal. easy to rectify, take apart, pull seal out of each side, small wire wheel on a dremel clean seal groove out in caliper, clean seal put back together. 95% of the time thats all it needs.