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Like Mark said, put a wood screw into it.  Then take a pair of wire cutters and use them to grip the screw and lever it out.  Just watch your sealing face when you lever in it, you might need to put something to protect it.

Personally, that billet one above would be cool if you made it yourself.  Buying it, not so much.

and rebound damping (with oil weight) individually.

If you look at the pictures I posted earlier you will see a weld spot on the rod and another pic with a small hole drilled.  This was done to "adjust" (change) rebound, the original hole was welded shut and a new smaller hole drilled.

I did the hole size based on recommendations off one of the triple boards.

gsxr400 is between 350-365

fzr400 is in the same 350-360 ballpark.

I'm guessing those are dry weights?  I see posted wet weight of the fzr right around what the wet weight of the RR is.

Does anyone have some solid numbers for what a 90s 400 supersport weight was?  I tried using the google machine and saw some conflicting numbers. 

I got a little curious since weight was mentioned so much in this thread.

Thank you for those pics.

Is there a standard bolt hole diameter for 3 hole silencer mounting?  My JLs measure 40mm, I think I saw Tyga might be 44mm???.

Anyone know what the M factory west/TZ Mike silencers are?

How much, I don't know but I would think an aftermarket exhaust and rear fender eliminator would drop some decent weight.

3 would probably work if every piece was perfect.  You need to put as many as needed if you have to pull pieces together to get them into alignment with each other.

Finish is surprisingly pretty easy, get your settings dialed in on the machine, mash the pedal and have at it.  I would say 1 hour or under per header on actual finish welding if you did your part on the fit-up.

Fit-up and tacking sections together takes much longer.  You essentially need perfect alignment and zero gaps, any less and you have to "deal with it" one way or another.  I really need a 3rd or 4th hand when doing it.  You are trying to hold the pieces together tight and in alignment with one hand and the torch in the other.  Sometimes one hand on the pieces isn't really enough and there isn't a good way to clamp/fixture it down so you have to deal with it.  It would also be nice to have a piece of filler rod in your hand incase a hole starts but that also isn't an option.

The bigger radius on the headers (and belly pieces) are also a little tricky when tacking as you essentially have an open corner joint so you only have the little bit of material down in the root to hopefully fuse and have the top melt before you make a hole. This is a place where a dab of filler would be nice to get them melted together, once they are it's not as big of a deal.

Any pieces that are a little out of alignment you need to watch when tacking (and finish welding) and pay attention to torch control.  You really need to start an arc on the low piece and wash up into the one that sits higher, if you don't you will have a hole.

I put my fair share of holes in those header pieces putting them together, some of them was just being out of practice, others remembering what to do and not do, others were maybe unavoidable for the situation.  Key is how you deal with it when it happens.

Most of the above is where a thicker gauge material is a lot more forgiving. 

You might check teh length of those two sections to see if they are the same where they join. It is possible that one file is incorrect.

I took a look at the headers tonight, I think most of what is seen in the above pic is an illusion but there is definitely some out of round on the fab work that has caused some minor steps.  And by minor steps, I mean it still was welded with basically no filler wire.

I do remember having the most issues with those pieces though so it is possible there is some length issues on some of the files.  I'm not sure if I even want to look or just deal with it again when I remake them, we'll see.

I think 20ga is a little more common and that is what was called out for these.  Where I got the flats laser cut, 20ga wasn't an option so I went with 22 instead of 18.  This material actually measures a little less than 22ga specs, it is .027" thick.

I built a set of chambers in the past for a Kawi triple from a cone kit that was 22ga so I felt confident enough to use the material for this.

I think some of what you see with the wrong side is a little bit of an illusion in the picture  BUT, I'm having my doubts that the supplied files are what these pipes were being produced with.  There are issues with the belly sections that I am currently trying to sort out and have new flats cut.  Unfortunately, I am better with the welder than the computer so it is taking a little long to get where I want to go. 

I fought with fit-up on those header sections which I chalked up to the "fab" work but I am wondering if there isn't some issues with those as well.

I'll get this set together but will mostly get another set cutout and put together if the modified belly sections work  out.

Did you weld that, if so amazing?

Yes, thanks.  I've been out of practice with TIG for a few years now, these are starting to get me right back in the groove, lol.

That is only 22ga sheet, fab work and fit up needs to be pretty much 100% and even then you can have some issues.

A little teaser if anyone is interested.

full plans/specs here

https://vanguardcycles.wordpress.com/2010/10/01/how-the-vanguard-v1s-are-made/

Sorta/kinda.  I have the package, some of the info in it isn't what shows in that build log.  I was hoping someone had built a set on here.  I know someone built a set a long time ago on one of the MC forums, flips12 screen name maybe???

We sold 8 sets of them and Nate (Van Guard owner) didn't want to do any more too labor intensive, each cone had to be laser cut, then 40+ hours of tig welding per set. He turned more than one "name your price offer".