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So the project RD350 has an exhaust leak.  Actually 'leak' doesn't quite describe it.  It's more like the exhaust isn't sealed at all judging by the smoke coming out of the junction.  The exhaust gaskets are brand new, from a gasket set from India.  I did a quick comparison with some factory Yamaha ones I had and they seemed the same.  The clamp seems to be flush against the cylinder so I'm guessing the gaskets were not thick enough.  The bike is a 'bitsa' so I don't know if the clamps are for the headers if there were different ones.  They seemed to fit properly but they also seem to have a curve which I didn't notice until I inspected the junction after firing the engine up.  There is a tiny gap in the middle while the sides look flush with the port.  The clamp did not slide off the end of the header so it seemed to be the correct size, and the bolt holes also lined up perfectly.

Has anyone seen this before.  What would a solution to the problem be?  Doubling exhaust gaskets seems like it would be too thick.  If the Indian gaskets were incorrect they were close enough in size to the Yamaha ones that there was no noticeable difference so using a Yamaha gasket seems an unlikely solution.

The oil injection nozzles I have fit loosely in the carburetors.  One side is OK, but still looser than I would like.  The other side is loose.  What is the best way to seal them?  RTV silicone?  Yamabond 4?  Any tips would be appreciated.

I know there used to be a thread regarding rim and tire sizes but can't seem to find it.

My question is, will a 110/90 tire work on a 1.85 rim on an RD350.  I'd like sporty tires for the current build but have D.I.D. rims in 1.60 for the front and 1.85 for the rear.  To change to 1.85 front and 2.15 rear would mean going back to steel rims.

I'm looking to replace the stock regulator/rectifier in my RD350 project with something more modern.  I've replaced stock regulator/rectifiers with something different in the past but with more modern motorcycles.  What is the best route in this case?  I'd like to delete the whole airbox and battery box if possible.  I have a Y-boot with uni-filter and Martek ignition; if that makes a difference.  I know the Martek ignition will still require a battery.  I'm hoping to replace the battery with something smaller and a capacitor if possible.

Any input would be appreciated.

Out of curiosity, are the spokes for the RD350 and RD400 rear hubs the same?  I have an Excel rim laced to an RD400 rear hub that I'm considering moving to an RD350 project.

I was trying to find the correct cables for the RD350 on the bench and realized that even though I have mostly the short slide carburetors I only have one set of cables that works with them.  When I went through the carbs to try to find long slides and tops I realized that I have two different tops for the short slides, one with the cable holder that screws into the top, and ones that have the longer bent swivel tube on them with the adjuster at the end of the tube.  I'm guessing that's why I have cables that appear to be for long slides, the difference in length from the cable holder to the slide.  I'm hoping I'm making sense as I don't want to dig out the parts right now to take pictures.

My question is; are both tops correct for the RD350?  Just curious.  As long as they work that's all that matters to me.  The bike was a bitsa when I got it and will remain one.  I just want to ride it.

While trying to find information regarding setting the float level in the Mikuni's being rebuilt for the RD on the bench I ran across this website.  Pretty informative:

http://www.vintagebikebuilder.com/setting-mikuni-float-levels.html

There seems to be other good information on the site.

BTW; pretty sure I found a typo in the factory Yamaha manual for the early RD's while trying to find information on the float level.  Page 49; Section 3-18; first paragraph: "The YAMAHA R5C, RD250 and RD350 employ two ANAL type VM28SC carburetors..."

If I'm correct that should be 'AMAL', correct?

Are there difference in the old Yamaha dual piston brake calipers such as the ones found on the RD350.  I found an old milk crate with old brake parts in it.

I started taking them apart to see what shape they were in and noticed that the only real differences I could see were in the casting numbers.  They seemed to have similar casting numbers, until I got to the 3rd caliper.  I've attached pictures of the sets of caliper bodies.

Is it OK to mix and match parts?  Should the caliper that appears to be from different castings be suspect?

Anyone else out there realize the manual in the title has an error in the wiring diagram for the RD350?  Manual shows the GRAY wire going to the LEFT coil and the ORANGE wire going to the RIGHT coil when in fact it's the opposite.  In hindsight the diagram could be considered correct as the LEFT coil could seen as actually being on the RIGHT side of the motorcycle by placement in the diagram and vice versa, they are just labeled incorrectly.  It makes sense as back then the manuals were written by Japanese and not proof-read by English speakers, or so I've been told.

Thought I'd share and hopefully save someone else the hassle of finding out the hard way.  My friend always said the Japanese did it correct, as in the right point looking at the generator was for the right cylinder and the left point was for the left cylinder.  That's when I realized the bike had been wired wrong at some time.

So, a motorcycle charging system puts out, for the sake of argument, between 13.5 and 14.5 volts.  I know this isn't 100% accurate, but it is less than 16 volts.

Can I use a 16V capacitor as a battery eliminator?  The ones that I've seen advertised are usually 35 volt.  The reason that I ask is that I am an IT tech by trade.  I've found 16 volt capacitors in more than 4700uF in working computer power supplies, but the computers are being replaced as they are out of date.

I'd like to use one or more of them as battery eliminators. Will this work?

This ignition system came in a parts RD350 I acquired.  I was told it sat outside for a while which would explain the faded wire colors.  It also seems correct as one engine that came with everything had significant water damage.  In any case, the wire colors don't seem to match my Martek ignition.  Not only that, but the main unit seems to have been opened up at some point.

Does anyone have an idea what it is?

Does anyone have the installation manual for the Martek RD electronic ignition?

I found reproduction switches for the RZ350 somewhere online a while back, but can't for the life of me remember where.  I'm pretty sure they were from an Australian or New Zealand company.  The price for the pair was reasonable.  Does anyone happen to know what company it could be, or of any others?

Found a 'Yamaha Ignition Tester' in the shop today.  Manufactured by 'Electro-Specialties, Inc. Milwaukee, Wisconsin'.  Part number written on the box is, 908-90910-22'.  No instructions in the box.

Does anyone have the instructions for this, or know how to use it?  I'll try to post pics tomorrow if I have time.

So, I'm going to put a Banshee top end on the YammaGamma.  Looked on eBay and found some for crazy low prices.  Original prices were in line with what I expected, but the sale prices are crazy.  Does anyone have experience with them?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-1987-2005-2006-Yamaha-Banshee-350-Cylinder-Head-Piston-Gasket-Top-End-Kit/183911315356?hash=item2ad1f7f79c:g:WU8AAOSw~G5dSTSW

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cylinder-Head-Piston-Gasket-Top-End-Kit-For-1987-2005-2006-Yamaha-Banshee-350/254345541068?fits=Model%3ABanshee+350%7CMake%3AYamaha&hash=item3b382cf5cc:g:R6cAAOSwhDddaVsZ

are a couple of them.  Search I used was, 'Cylinder Head Piston Gasket Top End Kit for Yamaha Banshee 350'.

TDR lists a kit:
https://shop.bansheedepot.com/Athena-cylinder-kit-16-5832.htm

that is more in line with what I expected a kit to cost, but isn't the stock 350cc, which I was leaning towards.

Any input would be appreciated.

After 4 years I've finally had the frame repaired  and have started the YammaGamma build.  A previous owner had cut one of the engine mounting tabs off the rear, supposedly to fit an early TZ motor after the stock motor seized in a race.  Found someone who came highly recommended and had the mount rebuilt.

Does anyone have a copy/scan of the December 1987 Performance Bikes?  I have build descriptions found on the interwebs, but I cannot find the December 1987 Performance Bike article which was apparently written by Stan Stephens, who probably built the first one.  I'd like to compare the original walkthrough with the write-ups that I've found.  In particular the modifications to the side covers.

If anyone reading this has the magazine/article I'd really appreciate a scan.

Thanks in advance

Found a TA250 motor in the shop and am looking for the parts and service manuals.  Planning on putting it in the RD350 café racer project I'm working on (on and off...).  Anyone out there know where I can find one, or a pdf of one.  I've attached pics just in case the motor was misidentified.

The tach on the RZ350 I'm putting back on the road squeals.  I'm sure it's the tach as if I disconnect it the squeal goes away.  Oiled the moving parts, cable and gears, not the magnets or coiled spring, but the squeal presents itself when riding still.  Any ideas?  I'd like to keep the original panel.

What is the operating temperature range for a 1974 Yamaha DT125A?  I can't find it in the service manual.