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@dg8493; I in pretty much the same situation with the YSR's.  Both run so there's no need for an engine swap at this point.  The bike was pretty complete so I decided to go with popular opinion and get it on the street again.  Once I have everything ironed out I'll go about trying to get the title.  I have the paperwork for the Vermont title (thanks to a forum member for adding to the paperwork and info I had already found).  There's also a way to stand before a judge in civil court here and petition for a title.  Cost is about the same either way.  I have time to think about it.

@Clem710; thanks for the reply.  I'll get an email off to you, or at least a PM.  I'm in Hawaii, so flat rate envelopes and boxes are the best way to go.

Regarding the plug cap; emailed Treatland as the instructions didn't specify resistor or non-resistor.  Treatland seemed to thing the instructions said non-resistor so that's what's currently installed.  I'll post regarding that if I run into problems.

Current parts needed/wanted:
Gas cap and lock; anything for a '74' - 75' DT100 - DT 350 should work.  PM me if you have parts you're willing to sell.
Top and bottom triples for a DT125A or equivalent.  I have forks left over from another project, just need the triples.  Not only are the fork tubes cheaper they offer more in springs and such.

OK, updates are a little out of order.  I did fit the oil tank and bleed the system before firing up the engine.  Some pics are during fitment but not a lot changed between the fitment and the final install...  Oil tank was found in the shop with a pair of 'Nimrod' hubcaps.  Yes, 'Nimrod' hubcaps.  Google 'Nimrod camper'.  No idea how they made it to Hawaii.  I have no idea what the oil tank came from but it looks as cool as I hoped it would.  Was originally going to use it on a minibike but this is much better.

I still have to fit the wiring harness and connect the 12V regulator rectifier.  I'm hoping the capacitor I picked up at a local electronics supply shop works as planned as I don't have much space.  A battery is definitely not going to fit.

Had to relocate the CDI to get things to fit.  Timed and fired up the engine.  Awesome!!!  Probably wishful thinking but it sounded peppy'er.

Found an NOS steering lock in the shop and decided to install it.  Realized the lock in the motorcycle didn't just 'pop' out when the face plate was removed.  Looked at the NOS one and realized it had to pick the lock to remove it.  Took me longer to fashion the lock picks than to pick the lock.  Make a note of that; if the steering lock was that easy to pick the ignitions will be just as easy.  Though with the ignition just cut the ground wire...

Took the MSF course with my wife when she decided she wanted her motorcycle license, moral support and all.  We both rode TU250X's.  Bike was a BLAST.  Was doing the offset cones with the throttle pegged, I was surprised they let me.  During the course they kept telling my wife to watch 'him'.  She kept telling them, "...that's my husband, he used to race...".  Guess the moral support backfired.  Went to the local Suzuki dealer to buy her one, none of the sales people seemed interested in trying to get on in the color we wanted.  Including someone I knew from the track.  Ended up buying her a used Savage, then the Grom, then the DT125A.  Guess it all worked out fine :D

So...rebuilt the petcock, installed new exhaust gaskets, and started up.  Wants to stall with the choke off while rolling on the throttle until it's warmed up.  I'm guessing I don't have the carb setup quite right.  Took it for a test ride, runs nicely.  Noticed fuel coming out of the bottom of the float bowl after it was shut off and cooling down.  Thought the the drain screw might be loose so opened and closed it.  Fuel still coming out.  My best guess is that the overflow runs through the same output but the other carb for the other SRX is at the shop.  Can anyone confirm that it may be a float height issue?  I did set the fuel level with a clear tube, that's the reason for the confusion.

Test fit the bodywork this past weekend.  Seems while the upper fairing bracket looked straight it isn't.  I'll need to repair the front center bolt hold and then try to get everything lined up.  Seems the side mounts (where the blinkers mount) have been moved forward, and the whole thing was moved up a bit also as the upper doesn't line up with the lower.

The spacer with the oil injection nozzle was finished this weekend also.

Pics attached.

Great information, thanks!  Now things make more sense.

The cut-off relay works properly per the specs in the manual.  The regulator can be set to the manual specs also, but when set the voltage at the battery is only ~13.50 volts.  I did play with it more to see if the voltage could be increased but stopped when it was at ~13.67 as I had adjusted the screw quite a bit for what seemed to be a small gain and did not want to burn out the regulator.  I'm planning on changing to a lead acid battery but the voltage still seems on the low side and I'm concerned that it won't effectively charge the battery.  I'm pretty sure the low charge voltage is why the LiFe battery worked for so long before the voltage dropped too low and the motorcycle would not start.  When I pulled it it was at about 12 volts.  It is still good, as in it had not dropped below the minimum charge necessary and I was able to charge it back to spec without any problems.  Seems the voltage was just too low to allow the motorcycle to start.  As mentioned jump starting it with a 12V UPS battery allowed me to get it running and get home, so the it is producing enough power to run the motorcycle and lights.  I did turn the lighting switch off though as having the motorcycle stall on the way home would have sucked.

If anyone has experience with this motorcycle and can confirm the charging voltage is correct and that they haven't had any problems, that would be great.  In any case I may just run it with a lead acid battery and monitor the battery voltage from time to time to see if it holds steady, or keeps dropping.  If it drops I'll try the regulator mentioned, or one similar.

It would be nice to find a solution that would give decent lighting for riding at night.  Just in case I get stuck at work late again.

Thanks for the info.  Wiring diagram has been attached.  I also forgot that it is a generator and not an alternator.  Friend I bought the bike from went over all of that when we checked the timing.  My memory seems to be going, that or too many projects going on, probably both.

OK, so the reason for changing the regulator.  The motorcycle has had a LiFe Shorai battery for the past 2 years.  A couple of weeks ago it wouldn't start so I had to jump it with a uninterruptable power supply battery to get home from work.  Once started it ran fine with the idle adjusted so that it would not stall.  The lights on the bike have always been dim, so dim that riding at night is scary.  Found that out after getting stuck at work late one night.  I figured now would be a good time to swap out the R/R which I now know is only a regulator.  When the Trail Tech didn't work I troubleshot the regulator and found that it did need tweaking to get it to the manual's specs (pages for that attached in case someone needs the info).  After adjusting I'm only getting about 13.50 volts at the battery with the bike revved to 5000 rpm, from there it holds steady.  At idle ~1350 or so (I didn't use my digital meter as I just realized I do have one while typing  this) it only puts out about 13.05 volts.  This is too low for a LiFe battery so I'm surprised the problem took so long to surface.  It also seems low for a lead-acid battery.

Is there any reason I can't use the R/R I have?  If I'm correct the rectifier circuit just won't have to rectify anything.  A rectifier is basically comprised of diodes configured to only allow current to flow in one direction.  Only the regulator would do any work.  If this will not work does anyone have an idea on what can be done to improve the lighting?  I'm willing to lose the LiFe battery and go with a lead acid if necessary.  Maybe use the aforementioned regulator for a '55 Chevy?  Since I can't test the R/R I have until the weekend I figure I might as well see what ideas are out there.

Thanks m,  as soon as I read your post it clicked in my head.  Doh.

I have a Rick's Regulator that I'm not using right now.  I can't remember the part number right now.  It's a universal model that will work with the RD350.  I'm guessing this would work?  It's been a while but I seem to recall doing something similar many years back converting a Honda R/R to work on a Suzuki.  Matching wires and not needing to connect any extra white (or yellow depending on the system) wires coming off the R/R.

Basically:
Motorcycle - R/R
Red to Red
Black to Black
Green to Green
Yellow to White
Disregard extra Yellow(s)
Green (if there is an additional) to Ground

Pics of the RD350 R/R attached, the one I have has no plugs prewired to it.
Sound correct?

Kit didn't come with a plug cap...should I use a cap with a resistor or not?

*****Keep in mind the 1974 DT125A has an electric start and a12V electrical system*****


Tried to swap out the stock R/R for a Trail Tech unit today as the battery wasn't charging well.  I connected the wires to the TT unit as follows:
Motorcycle - Trail Tech R/R
Red - Red
Black - Black
White - Yellow
Green - Yellow

There was no current to the battery, the voltage was roughly the same before starting as after starting and did not climb when the RPMs were increased.  I'm guessing this has something to do with a 'floating' ground?  I've attached the TT instructions.

Also; here is a post that was on treatland's website regarding the R/R.

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"Wired this bad boy up to a capacitor and oh man, LET THERE BE LIGHT!!!

Black - Ground (- side or ground)
Red - Capacitor/Battery and lights (+ side)
Red/Yellow - Not used
Yellow 1 - input AC current coming from Stator
Yellow 2 - Also Ground

Wired up my pinto this way there was no need to float the ground. Voltage stays regulated around 13V - 14V (adjusted) with no issues.

The post on mopedarmy about wiring this up does not work and you don't have to float the ground."
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I did try grounding each Yellow wire individually to see if it would work.  There was no change.

I'm hoping someone has managed to get this to work...

So the parts order arrived today.  2 spacers necessary for the lower were missing, 2 extra for another part were included instead.  Emailed the vendor, hoping they'll send the correct parts with the parts that were still on backorder.  Hopefully I'll have time tomorrow to start installing the bodywork.  Still waiting for the intake spacer with oil injection nozzle.  Friend has a tough work schedule right now.  Not a lot of free time.

HPI ignition arrived and I finally had time to install it.  Plate and rotor installed easily.  Had to space the coil away from the frame as it was hitting.  Used the mount sent with the kit and a couple of washers.  I'll look for some spacers, or make them later.  Haven't had time to time the ignition yet, I'll post about it when I do.  I'm really impressed with the quality.  The only thing not included with the kit was the plug cap.  I ordered the kit through treatland.tv.  They're pre-sale support was amazing.  This was my first kit of this type.  They answered all of my questions and helped me figure out everything I needed to convert the system from 6V to 12V.  May sound easy to some of you, but I had concerns about what type of regulator/rectifier to use and how to wire it.  They pointed me to the correct unit, which they carry, and the instructions  for wiring it.  I haven't wired or tested it, but with the quality of service they've provided so far I'm confident it will work.  Looking forward to converting the system to 12V.