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Doesn't look like there's been a discussion around batteries on the new site, so figured I'd start one since I need a new battery.

What are people's general thoughts for RDs? 

Type: Conventional v. sealed v. gel v. Li-Ion?

Brand: Yuasa v. Parts Unlimited v. Antigravity v. other?

Prior owner put a dime sized hole in each pipe (bottom side, right at the fat part of the pipe), presumably bc they couldn't get the jetting right and needed an outlet for excess oil/fuel to drain.  Been just ignoring it, but since I have the bike apart I figure I should fix them.

Was thinking of brazing on a piece of metal using aluminum brazing rods and a MAPP gas torch.  That's the heaviest duty equipment I have access to (and I don't know how to weld anyways).  But I'm not sure whether the alum is tough enough to hold given the vibration and heat.  Or could this be a job for JB weld? Any thoughts?

Slightly ashamed that after owning/tinkering with my RD for ~3-4 years I still have such noob questions, but anyways...

I'm putting back together my engine after taking it apart, replacing all the seals, and having the top end re-done by Mr. Supertune.  Question is, can I perform the leak down test without putting together the entire engine? 

I put it together except for the clutch/kickstart and both side covers.  When I run the leak down test, it's not holding pressure for long - the bubble test seems fine at the intake, base, cylinder heads and stator side of the crankshaft.  But I'm getting bubbles on the other side of the crankshaft when the primary gear pinion is on and hand-tightened (can't figure out how to torque it down without installing the rest of the pieces, so settled for hand-tightened).  I'm assuming the leak down test should still work even without installing all the stuff on the clutch side since the seal on the primary gear is supposed to keep tranny oil from getting sucked into the crank area, but want to check with the experts. Also FYI that oil seal is brand new OEM. So should this leak down test as I'm doing it without all the pieces on still work properly?  I know I could just spend another 20-30 mins to bolt on the rest of the pieces, but trying to save a little time, and am also just curious from a theoretical standpoint.

Yamaha workshop manual says 'check circumferential play - if excess play, replace'.  But it doesn't define what is 'excessive'.

Mine has play of about 3mm - is this fine?  Video reference: https://photos.app.goo.gl/sKZY5ST1JaGdUL1MA