I've known since doing a preflight for the Gap that my shifter side lever was due for for a good looking at.
These are Doug's last generation rearsets with bearings inserted in both the shift and brake lever shafts.
I took them apart yesterday and threw them in the sonic. Today I pulled all the remnants - and I mean remnants- of the bearings from the raceways. Both shifter side bearings are shredded and one on the brake side.
This is how the bearings sit, two 4mm thick bearings side by side in the race:
(https://i.ibb.co/4RJhdGg/0549-B39-A-EC1-B-40-A3-B740-D7-D921-D2-DE24.jpg)
Remnants of old bearings. One of four intact:
(https://i.ibb.co/KXfQTbD/48249228-DE35-40-D2-AE8-B-A36-F592-BE69-B.jpg)
I can easily source the 10x15x4mm bearings but I'm thinking there may be better options.
For one, how about using a single 10mm thick bearing inside the race by drilling out the "stopper" inside? Would that be any stronger/better?
Anyone else made improvements to these? I'm not shopping new ones, I like these fine. Straight replacement bearings are only $2 each.
I'm also thinking that these bearings aren't the best for getting pinched between washers, as is required here to set the right spacing when mounting the levers. Any suggestions welcome.
(https://i.ibb.co/4fmZczV/image.jpg)
Rainy day research....I found the correct size bearings in a "Flanged" style, the flange is specifically for axial thrust (side) loads if my research is correct. Means they can be "pinched" which is what is needed to get a nice non-wobbly setup with these rearsets.
In any case, for $10 I'm finding out. They arrive next week.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZmMmJgK/A1-FE3-C9-E-FFA0-42-F2-B171-A5-A7-BD6-F7628.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/Fh7VbPz/8-B8-BE428-4-E28-4-B77-8078-8-C725-F913243.webp)
I really do not understand why some aftermarket rearset builders use ball bearings. Cheap, simple composite or brass bushings are more than good enough. On my 1995 Ducati, there is still less slop than on a brand new Suzuki GS500 or a brand new HD XR1200. That Duc has a brass bushings and 2 o-rings that keep the grease inside. Super simple.
on a shifter. they def work better. Ive made my share of rear sets from scratch, and on the brake side the bronze bushing works well, but on the shifter, i prefer a ball bearing. heck, i made a set one where i used a wristpin bearing, that worked really well .
the old MC units were bushed and were notorious for being hard to shift.
I've had both MC types. The bushes were not brass but always wearing out. I don't think the "improved" style, using these bearings were much better.
I'm hoping the flanged bearings will allow me to snug the foot peg while still allowing good roller action.
Will know by this weekend.
those are tiny bearings.
when i did mine i used a much larger bearing and its been in use since 2008. you can see the lever at the pivot is pretty big, that was to house the bearing.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/LC-HYBRID/spoked-wheels/RDWHEELS_FINAL_2_zpsgarrdxfs.jpg)
*If* I had a drill press I would go bigger in the OD. Let's see how the flanged work. At $10 a season if they work good until they don't, I'm ok.
For anyone a bit more capable there's improvement opportunities here.
take the inner seals out that will face each other. drill and tap into the lever along the centerline and fit a zerk fitting. then you can grease them when installed. .02
Where did you source the flanged bearing ? Just picked up moto c rear set. Great info
I intended to do a tech article, just haven't got to it.
These are the flanged bearings . If you have the last generation MC's with the bearings, these are a better way to go. I'll document my install when I do it. Turns out you need ONE non flanged in the brake side the three of these. Two in the shifter and one in the brake:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154422367518 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/154422367518)
Awesome , thanks great info !
Ok, final thoughts on my rearset bearing replacement/upgrade. Disappointed that the action isn't vastly improved, but this fix had to be done.
1) I ended up using a flanged brass sleeve in the hole on the 'oversized' brake pedal. Sourced at the Ace Hardware. In summary, the Brake side gets a flanged bearing on the outside, nonflanged bearing inside, then the brass fitting on other side.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZT73bg2/B2155-E20-FF9-E-42-B4-A91-C-6759-F8-ED8685.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/LdjXWcJ/4-E662-F28-6133-44-AE-832-D-372810-CA1-C58.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/y0hj9BL/D723-EEAA-7-D37-4586-92-EC-7-C59-B0883412.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/VHNtCNL/E047233-B-6-C89-493-F-9806-19612-CDF9-B6-D.jpg)
2) Shifter side is fine with two flanged bearings, one on each side. Fit properly in the pocket with no mods.
(https://i.ibb.co/gJH1ppJ/B092-D2-EC-7362-4-C77-909-F-BA5069915-DF2.jpg)
3) OVERALL a bit better, but the pegs still flex a little when either brake or shifter is depressed. I am pretty sure that the problem is that the kit was originally assembled with a mix of SAE and Metric. I recalled that from years ago and the result is detectable sloppy fit. Not bad, not great. Something that must be watched every few rides.
(https://i.ibb.co/zQKXH44/79-C9-B533-613-C-457-B-B7-AB-DE77-A1-FC540-D.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/F4pnJq5/99-A89970-0326-4-ED4-A42-A-B0-B2-F7-AAC644.jpg)
I'd say any slop is mainly due to the design geometry. The bearing/ bushing area is too short to provide sufficient support. My 1995 Ducati Monster and my 1997 ST2 still have nice and tight shifter and gear pedals/ linkages. IIRC, the bearing/ bushing length is 20-25 mm long, bushing ID maybe 12-14 mm. If for some reason a shorter bushing is desirable, then larger thrust faces on both sides would also prevent slop, but also most likely cause increased friction.
I'm going to upgrade to the bearings on mine, after inspecting too much slop on my shifter.
Popped in a spring washer, no more slop. Still going to bearing when they arrive.