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It's a big factor to consider. Back in the day I weighed about 140 lbs. To have the same advantage now, I'd have to loose about 65 lbs off the bike!

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It will be very hard on the die. Titanium is normally cut with carbide tools.

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I have 'converted' them before, but I've just used the later type top casting. One of those types comes with its own problems!

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Great, if you can find the size of the thread, and the taps. The screw needs to be the correct part, very fussy on thread length it actually locks off on the shoulder of the screw. You may also have to shorten the pulley itself, in some cases. The screw being bigger diameter than the roll pin moves the pulley a bit further along the boss on the top casting, the pulley can jam just before it gets to fully open.

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Also, the bracket can cause a few issues. I've spoken to people who have the bracket fitted and report zero minimum stroke. The bracket is actually quite soft, if it gets bent down for any reason towards the pulley this can prevent the minimum stroke from occurring, also given that there may be raised marks on the pulley for setting the cable at the closed throttle position, the amount of deflection only needs to be slight.

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As I said, two later subsequent methods for retaining the pulley.

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Yes, its an open ended hole, but the roll pin MUST NOT contact the plunger shaft.

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The roll pin is best fitted pushed in. It's quite hard to fit correctly as it must not foul the plunger shaft. I fit the roll pins in a special way, Full diameter all the way through, but they are fitted with a tapered end initially.

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The bracket was a vain attempt to stop the roll pin from coming out. It didn't really work and there were two other methods of pulley retention after that.

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I would worry more about the main 10mm bore in the casting first. You have to remove the corrosion first before removing the camshaft. The cam/bore is a precision fit and your main casting is probably scrap now.

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The pulley on your pump has two possible holes for the pulley spring. It may have been on the 'tighter' one.
Interesting what you say though. Yamaha made those springs softer and softer overtime. On pumps that are still available new, the spring only just about returns the pulley, even with the plunger in the out position!

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No worries.

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I agree with you, please don't think I'm not. I'm quite aware that the OEM clearance is not really achievable now, as it was in the day.
Just saying what was, back in the day.
If there is no reference to 'what was' then we have nothing to compare to.

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I would guarantee its the UK.   

fwiw.. having both ac and lc motors i've never seen a need of difference of spec using pro-x between the 2. Just haven't.  But, to that point, then you would think the air-cooled bikes would require MORE clearance, right?    their logic just doesn't hold up. and, the piston materials now is different than they were in 1974.

Just to be clear, it's not based on logic.

Just to be clear.

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The tank has to be scrupulously clean.
White spirit is a bit more user friendly, but it won't guarantee perfection if the tank is too far gone.

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