This bike has lived in Hanover NH area all its life and was owned by a NYC Banker who got old and the bike has been reportedly sitting in his garage/barn since the mid 80's. It has 3100 mile on the clock and except for replacement intake with crossover, is VERY stock. Compression is 143/145 and cylinders look great. The plan is to split the case and reseal it, rebuild carbs, oil pump, brakes, tires, bearings and all hoses and polish it up and run it. They are only original once? Any other ideas for her?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/f09245454a9cef2ce5bc36b415d89ecd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/b5dd093fdc610f0bd660cdf174570e53.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/6f85c2d3c37f53de203a940da1e3a30a.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
WHOA! :whoop:
Congrats! Obtaining a bike like this is once in a life time!
I have another daytona as well, but not as original as this one. I'm sure I over paid, but it was close and I wanted it it:) thx
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Nice score! Looks like it's in very good shape and unmolested.
Are you sure that crossover intake is a replacement, it appears original.
That looks really good for a bike thats sat so long, not that much dust
or corrosion as far as i can see.
i recon the way to go would be to leave it original/stock
nice find
Thought all cross over intakes are aftermarket? This one is cracked so will be replaced with most of the rubber anyway.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Some pics(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/41c7bb90dbedab7cbdfea4734a046fa3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/34e1718f0d9158209de00840c9222970.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/3db6e74484c0360bdf04b1f30c0b7487.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/a023359320484fbbb5011933634c3ca0.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
That is similar to you Canadian models out here.
Wouldn't be surprised if this bike is a Canadian import.......
Any idea is the Canadian serial #'s are know or on series?
Quote from: DaytonaBarnFind on September 06, 2020, 05:25:49 PM
Some pics(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/41c7bb90dbedab7cbdfea4734a046fa3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/34e1718f0d9158209de00840c9222970.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/3db6e74484c0360bdf04b1f30c0b7487.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/a023359320484fbbb5011933634c3ca0.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Is there a pipe coming from the middle of the crossover? where does that go?
That crossover intake setup is USA '79 OEM.
thats very cool indeed. nice find for sure. :clap:
The hose coming off the middle goes to a valve on the carbs controlled by the throttle linkage, to control vacuun to the diaghram for the OEM exhaust emissions butterfly valves. Looks original. The only thing that looks not original is that someone added fuel filters. NICE find.
I see it has a CDI compliant side cover.
It has points.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200907/ed22b84fd48fd67576c082947ffda8a7.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Quote from: SoCal250 on September 06, 2020, 07:37:21 PM
That crossover intake setup is USA '79 OEM.
Very cool, its too bad it's cracked. Should I run a crossover intake like an RZ?
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Quote from: DaytonaBarnFind on September 07, 2020, 08:55:57 AM
Quote from: SoCal250 on September 06, 2020, 07:37:21 PM
That crossover intake setup is USA '79 OEM.
Very cool, its too bad it's cracked. Should I run a crossover intake like an RZ?
The carb joints for the RZ are a little different than the Daytona but you may be able to make them work. The RZ uses a larger female nipple on the manifold while the Daytona uses a smaller diameter male brass fitting for the hose to slip over. I doubt you'll be able to find any NOS Daytona 2V0-13565-00-00 manifolds. In any case, I would restore as-is to retain the functioning exhaust valve.
As Ed pointed out above it looks like you have all the exhaust valve components. Those are pretty rare since most owners took them off and tossed them back in the day. You also have an uncut rear fender which was another common mod that resulted in that part being rare as well.
Because it's so complete I would keep everything intact and restore it as original. There are tons of modified Daytonas running around but very few stock ones. It's worth more if it's original too.
The 2V0 model did not get the CDI that the 3J7 came with for Canada in 1979. Unfortunately we got stuck with points
I attached a few parts images for you for reference. You can find the complete Daytona parts book in the Tech Library (http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=41.msg111#msg111)
Those intakes look similar to the ones Economy sells with the rubber crossover. Brass nipple diameter may be a bit bigger though.
Finally found some time to disassemble the barn find RD. The insides all look really clean, especially the stator assembly. Next up is to clean the engine up before splitting the case to replace all seals. Bike has 3100 on it and compression was 155 in both cold. Will rebuild the oil pump and carbs, and probably paint and polish the cylinders/heads, but this is very original bike so the plan to keep it that way. Front caliper is seized so it soaking, and will rebuild all calipers and masters, yuk. I want to touch up exposed areas on the frame, what the go to paint for this? I would guess it should be brushed on not sprayed?
Constructive thoughts and ideas are welcomed.
Merry Christmas,
Rob(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201227/758a2e879960e47faa94102bde0dab95.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201227/0b35e0ed5982170c3291041617039caf.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201227/bcc6a34f93862743a7d7551bb34b98d3.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Looking good!
My 4U0 was in similar OG complete condition when I got it
I initially intended to do a faithful all original resto as well
The brake calipers were the turning point. The original JDM specific calipers are crap, and had not fared well from decades of neglect. The JDM specific front master cylinder was even worse
I've kept the chassis as original as financially possible, but gone full race on the engine.
Best of luck with your project 😎
Any head polishing experts? What's the best approach to restore this head to look like new?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201228/28d3ae5c8f243dfc1eff1e26d64fdb21.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Quote from: DaytonaBarnFind on December 27, 2020, 10:36:02 PM
Any head polishing experts? What's the best approach to restore this head to look like new?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201228/28d3ae5c8f243dfc1eff1e26d64fdb21.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Vapor blast, run thru the wet sand grits from 400 to 2000, then hit the buffing wheel with rouge.
Jim's got good advice. I am no expert, but have spent many many hours at the wheel.
I started by bead blasting, then did everything at a wheel with various grades of polish. I think the 400 up to 2000 grit would have been a better route, but the 'wheel only' worked for me...
(https://i.ibb.co/zb5kzH8/77-F6-EE65-8-B7-E-4-E66-A747-33314200-B7-BF.webp)
(https://i.ibb.co/bF8tMkH/4383-F433-D986-4285-9-C2-E-A56276-CC8-CDE.webp)
(https://i.ibb.co/kMyCWJc/282479-DC-02-BD-47-A4-96-CC-F27-B24-D31-B02.webp)
Here's my very basic setup and some outcomes. Best advice is wear gloves, a respirator and goggles, the flying compound is nasty...
(https://i.ibb.co/tXN9Zw3/9184-A7-B9-2619-4359-9443-BD2-D6375-F4-D0.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/kQPvRwQ/3-EB88-BAA-E087-4568-AF5-A-87-E7-C78-A0443.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/YDB31Gm/BE6-B8-F67-8-AFA-464-D-8-D6-A-914188-AF3-D2-E.jpg)
Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the info. I'm not looking for it to be too shinny, just back to the "factory" look. Still the same process, but just less of it? I'm in NJ as well, just west of Newark off 78. Thx Rob
Nice score on that bike with factory pipes, very hard to find. I posted yesterday in General Chatter section looking for information on the ID sticker on the steering head. Maybe you can help me fill in the missing information. I have one that I am restoring with stock pipes as well, but not nearly as nice as this one.
While the motor is apart this would be a good time to get the combustion chambers reshaped for modern fuel. Maybe even cut the head in half for easier assembly/future service.
Does this help?
Another angle
Case came apart easily. Crank bearings look dirty but are very smooth. Whats the best way to clean up crank safely?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210130/9b51db639cd702bae64f82d727834d45.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210130/339d868faa0c30a6ba63835f21935d27.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210130/c7610e90727d2c6ee8d9340ca1e46df8.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Those bearings are 40 years old.
IMO the ONLY route from here is to rebuild that crank.
... and seeing how it's an American spec Daytona crank you might consider using a 1A1 crank.
If it was me I would be replacing it with a 3J7 crank and run a late model (CDI) ignition
Will most likely will have the crank rebuilt. Will add that to the while its apart to do list. This bike 100% stock 3100 mile Daytona. It did sit in a barn in NH for 35yrs. Think I'm leaving this stock. Have another 79 that will get tricked out, a little. Thx for your comments.
id def leave it stock, but id also address every seal and bearing on the bike. :twocents:
Quote from: m in sc on February 01, 2021, 11:05:15 AM
id def leave it stock, but id also address every seal and bearing on the bike. :twocents:
Agreed!!
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Quote from: bitzz link=topic=2414.msg25231#msg25231 date=1612019249
If it was me I would be replacing it with a 3J7 crank and run a late model (CDI) ignition
/quote]
3j7 crank and factory cdi components are very hard to find. You would be better with a1a crank with aftermarket cdi.
Not for us Canadians
Want some 3J7 parts?
And there was an Australian CDI RD400 Daytona too.
that low a mileage id consider a better crank, but leave the rest alone (stock). def mod the other one.
RD250, 400 E,F and G models all came with CDI in Australia IIRC. We had a few too many RDs back in the day and most were "projects' AKA basket cases or needed a lot of work to get them running.
What's the best way to clean up the wheel lips while retaining the original black paint? The spokes cleaned up nice with scotchbright pad, so the same on the lips? Any other wheel restoration ideas? Thx(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210220/7b0bafbb2e2129fc2e7ed1fcf741dadb.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
If you want to leave the exhaust flapper in place and functioning and keep it looking oem as possible (use the original vac tubing) I can offer how I did it and maybe save you some homework. Original style carb holders with the vac ports are not available as a repop or NOS unless you can wait years for a set to appear that aren't shelf rotted. The closest thing are holders from a Euro spec RD250LC 4L1. These are a perfect match and have the correct stuffers. The RD250LC had a tiny crossover and the ports in the holders are larger than those for the 400 Special brass adapters and obviously don't have the threaded insert.
The NOS 250LC parts are hard to find and stupid expensive. I bought Japanese made Tourmaster knockoffs part #CHY-47
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153478948360?hash=item23bc0ee608:g:n-IAAOSwq25c0VMH (https://www.ebay.com/itm/153478948360?hash=item23bc0ee608:g:n-IAAOSwq25c0VMH)
Then you just need to spin up some "capped" adapters that fit the holders. Proper size orifice drilled through the center for 6mm x 1.0 thread and then thread for the oem Daytona vac nipples to screw into. After they are fabricated you can then radius them on the inside of the holder easily. Use the Yami wireclamps part#90467-15012-00 for the adapters (these can be ordered in the USA. When your done only a knowledgeable person with their face stuck down there will notice there is something "odd".
x
Replacing my intake manifolds they were leaking. What's the trick to stop leaks? What torque specs? I hear 10Ftlbs, which seems like a lot tp me, 120InLbs. New gasket between case and Reed box (no RTV sealer), black RTV around the manifold circle and reed case. Torque diagonally. Thanks in advance...