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could also run a pair of crossover up pipes though there 

ooh. high pipes, bleed silencer style (side) with mufflers aimed down and back.

a very 'dog in the manger' attitude. 

thanks wade!. the zip tie on the bar actually bothers me. (old man mode engaged)

I have an idea.....

i mean, that sucks but also fuck them for pitching the moulds into the dumpster, that was a shitty move.

I haven't bought anything from airtech in many years, glass from the past has been my go-to.

So, i had a generic switch on the lc for headlight control. wasn't great as the switch was down, low beam, middle, off, up high beam. there was a definite delay from low to high and was kind of fiddly. didn't like it. 

. that being said, i used to run an r5 switch, and saved it. way back, i used the horn button hole to house a neutral light. i found that in the switch box, took it apart, and completely rewired it. cleaned contacts, hit it w matte clear, and added a 2-way momentary on switch with 'up' now working 'set' on the daytona gauge, and 'down' being mode. it centers automatically so, was perfect for this application and actually fit in the housing with a slight massage of the housing.

also needed to replace the 8" headlight bucket as the plastic housing cracked over time and needed to go. went (back) with one of the economy cycle/emgo headlights with an auxito led.

does the lever have free-play when the choke is 'off'? if not it may be hanging open a hair. if the lever was put in int he wrong order or the 2 lifting tabs are bent, it can do this. you should be able to 'rattle' the ever around a tiny bit w out moving the plunger. if not, that may be an issue. .02

weird they are not the same. but i wouldn't sweat it. is the RH crank seal fresh-ish?

thats a lot of real estate above that motor... you could def add to the fuel tank for more capacity if so desired, or stuff the oil tank down in there. this should be good. the wheels do look great in silver

yup. thats Cv. but it should still be able to idle. also make sure the needle valve seat is big enough, ive been bitten by 1.5mm ID ones not flowing enough. need to be min 2-2.5mm units.

big zip file with repair manual, zeeltronic info for the RZ350.

https://2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/general-tech/RZ350-parts-manual/rz-stuff.zip

WOW THATS AWESOME 

dont.. it happens. i know a guy w a norton commando that bought a whole wiring harness, carbs, and all sorts of shit because he had the kill switch in the wrong position. it worked, he just didn't know how to use it. I shit you not, it took him 2 years to figure it out. actually, he didn't.. another guy did.

neither did i . i was looking for some jets for a 4160 a few years ago and a mikuni jet popped up in the list. i was like 'wtf'?

what key position are you running it in? all the way left is off, 1 is run/lights, 2 is park. (on older ones).

lights in an air-cooled should come on w key. does it have an aftermarket cdi or is it stock? need details.  did you try hi low beam? is the headlight switch ON?  (yes it can be turned off)

for those who are lucky enough to be able to store bikes at work like i am... in goes the 67.. out goes the 67. 

YL1 on way home for a bit of maint & nos parts.