Messages

What about brake pad/caliper pin grease? Hi-temp, but sticky enough? I'm gonna try it unless I can find my can of white lithium grease.

What's your favorite lube for the points cam on ignitions without the felt pads for oil?

  Way to go, "bill" .  The tighten to loosen trick is a great move that has gotten me out of a jam more than once.  Thanks for the reminder.  I'll file it under the "make sure to not get angry at the machine" heading. They only do what they're told, after all.

Hi guys. So i also have spec 2 classic pipes and a. Rear set from hvccycle
They are mounted direct to the stock footpeg hangers? Just before the passenger pegs,
Just the bolt with a shim? On each side and a nylock. Everything bolted tight.

I need some sort of rubber in Between?
Its just that the fitmenr of the pipe kind of sucks, so one side the pipe is sitting nice and high, can hang on the mounting point and boltet.
The other side however the pipe needs to be liftet in the mounting point as much as the hole allows, so they sit parallel to each other and looks right from behind, if this makes sense  my english is getting bad ( practice)

The rubber is to dampen vibration and prevent welds from cracking due to stress.  I used some pieces of rubber from inner tubes which I folded until I got the right thickness. On the frame side of the mounting tab I used pieces cut from a rubber and foam floor mat so the foam conforms to the hole in the bracket and the rubber cushions the washer.  Works pretty good, so far.

2 spooge diapers ready to go. Filled the space in each flange with hi temp copper RTV about 1/4" deep. Going to wait 30 mins as someone recommended and hopefully my spooge problems will be solved!

You might get even better results by cleaning the actual pipe very well with brakekleen and a scotchbrite pad or wire brush, then, apply a bead of sealant around the pipe so when inserted, the bead on pipe will stay near, but inside the outer end of the flange and seal any gaps from the pipe pushing the sealant you put in the flange being pushed in unevenly. 

2

The way I remember that post, it was to watch/feel for a slight pickup with a slight letting off on throttle.

Twice. Two bikes both purchased within the last 3 years. No more than 100 miles, combined.  I'm late to the show.   Already squeezed a piston and spun a crank nut!
My "trophy" shelf has a nice variety of rewards from the learning curve. :spider-1:

Yes.  They are all new.  When I switched to OEM points cam I tried to move the end of the crank. 

Did you check the wire from the negative side of the coil down to the points for the bad cylinder? You could do that by turning the key on, points closed, meter neg on points, meter pos on the coil neg wire (same wire, other end). There shouldn't be any voltage because you are on the same wire but if there is any voltage that wire has resistance and may get worse the longer you keep the key on and let it warm up.

I'll try that just for kicks.  Even with the colored wires and plug wires swapped, no dice on the same side almost every time. In other words, the left side works on either circuit. I also hooked up wires straight from battery to coils then straight to points with different condensers. I'm gonna try new coils since they read 4.6 ohms and I hear that's to high.

last time both sides were on the right side was surging up and down at a steady throttle position. it's not the carbs, soo....

bad cylinder ignores four different coils including coil from running side.
swapped in a whole different ignition with same results.
getting down to bad (new) seal or bad ring to bore seal i guess. compression is at 120 and it ran great a few times.  leak down test is next.
How come when I plug in a rick's regulator, voltage in the brown wires goes down, but still have battery voltage at orange and grey wires on ignition, huh? unplug and it goes up. this is with battery fully charged.
guy i bought the coils from on here says they ran his r5 no problem

That makes perfect sense; trying to eliminate any potential wrongness as I'm still having trouble.
I've tried everything suggested here and whatever I did to get the rusty R5 going a couple years ago with  consistent results. Even swapped a carb from the running bike just to make sure.  Runs great at idle and then for some revs on the stand and a quick blast or two, then back to one side, usually the left but not always. 
I compared the Joker Machine brand points cam that came with the bike to a Yamaha one and they are not exactly the same profile.   Swapped that out along with an RD ignition and am halfway done setting the timing which was accomplished much more quickly and with a more desirable contact breaker gap after the swap.  I comically exploded a brittle plastic bottle of machine oil all over the ignition and into my face while oiling the cam felts, so ditched that unit.
Removed the harness and there is no voltage drop in the disconnected wires, eliminated ignition switch with and the voltage at the points lead is still down.  Can coils that both show 4.6 and 13.6 be the problem? 

 :umm:Is my 2004 GMC Z71 Sierra worth the same amount of money that has been spent over its lifetime to keep it in good working order, plus its value as a vehicle?  No. 

Is the bolt that holds the points cam on a stock R5 ignition supposed to be magnetic?