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I ordered a pipe for my 79 DT125 from Indonesia. It was $270 with shipping, It only took 16 days from ordering to get it. The pipe is stainless steel, welds and construction look good.
I inquired about RD pipes. He sent some pictures for both AC and LC bikes. His RD pipes have manifolds and slip in pipes, not a solid flange like the DT pipe.
The seller deals through Facebook, name Kenzo Knalpot Racing. He's also on Instagram.

I was surfing RD parts on eBay. I saw a set of used RD400 cases for $425 and a used trans (gears and shafts only) for $250. A few other parts seemed pretty expensive too. Is this just a case of people thinking their stuff is made of gold or are parts prices really getting that crazy?

About a month or so ago I was looking on the internet and found a Japan based company that had some very inexpensive parts for older Japanese bikes. It wasn't Cruzin Image. They had a better assortment of engine parts for smaller bikes. I thought I saved it in favorites but apparently I didn't. I tried searching history but no luck.

I'm hoping someone on here can help me out wit a name or web page.

Not much is mentioned about the air jet in the Mikuni manual except that it helps atomize the fuel. So bigger jet=more air thus leaner mixture or bigger jet=more air helps pull more fuel thus richer mixture? And at what throttle openings does it have the most effect.

Second question. In the Yamaha manual listing carb specs for this engine I see 2 abbreviations I don't recognize BP and PO.

Yes I'm trying to sort out a carb. It's on a 73 MX360.

Thanks, John.

I had to drill 6 1/2 inch holes in a 1 inch thick piece of steel. It didn't want to center punch too well and my titanium bits (at least the set is labeled titanium) wouldn't scratch the surface. I didn't want to spend all afternoon running around town trying to find bits that would work. So I did an online search for recommendations. Someone on a fabricator forum suggested using masonry bits. I had some Home Depot garden variety bits. I chucked up a 3/16 in my drill press and gave it a shot using Rapid Tap as a lube. Went right through. I just wanted to pass it on.

The GF decided she wanted a scooter for the summer. She found a Tao Tao electric scooter on Craigslist all by herself. Had to have it because it's just so cute. I just hope it makes  it through the summer. Plastics look really flimsy ad a lot of the metal pieces, like brackets and swing arm look like they were made from scrap.
Oh well, it's in my garage now.

I want to list a couple of engines (1 RD and 1 DT) on Ebay. Just wondering about shipping. I have USPS, UPS and Fed Ex available in my area and USPS is probably out for something like this. So UPS or Fed EX. What experience do you guys have. And what do you do for packaging? Heavy box? Strap it on a pallet?
Thanks, John.

I'm in the final stages of stuffing a  Suzuki RM500 engine into a 72 TS250. I didn't look at sprocket availability beforehand. The RM500 uses a 520 chain and sprocket and the TS uses 525. I'm not having any luck finding a 525 sprocket for the RM engine or a520 that will fit the TS.
So which sprocket manufactures are good to deal with to get a custom sprocket? Or is there a spec sheet available with hole diameters, spline count etc? Or does anyone sell sprockets with blank centers?
Thanks, John.

I'm building a Suzuki RM500 engine (bore dia is 84.5mm). Any ideas on what I should set squish clearance to? I'm assuming a bigger bore needs more clearance to account for greater expansion. Or am I overthinking it?
Thanks, John.

Over the last winter I rebuilt a MX360 engine, added a Power Dynamo ignition and put it into my 74 DT250 with the stock MX360 chamber and silencer. After I got the jetting straightened out I found the bike was a kick to ride. I promised myself to leave all the bikes alone and spend more time riding and less time working on them.
And along comes a Craigslist ad. A shifter kart with a RM500 engine for only $200. And I happen to have a 74 TS250. First step is to see if the engine will physically fit in the TS frame. Then it's pull the engine down to see what it needs and find an ignition/ charging system for it. A chamber was on the kart, it looks like the stock RM pipe, it's pretty well butchered at the inlet end but the rest looks good. So here I go again.

I have 2 74 MX250 front wheels. The aluminum rim on both appear to be cracked. On both rims the "crack" is located opposite of the valve stem hole, it extends from one side to the center of the rim. It's visable on the smooth outer surface of the rim but and barely visable on the inside. It runs in  a straight line to the center. I'm wondering if I'm looking at a crack or the seam where the aluminum was joined.
Both wheels are marked Takasago and they're H pattern rims.
Has anybody else seen this?

It's a shame all the info from the old site was lost. But I'm glad to see 2SW back.