If you missed the second part of my "Coil Question" thread here's a quick synopsis.
My bike was losing power I ordered the Econ Cycles OEM style coils. Second ride after about 4-5miles it died. I noticed an airgap on my clear oil injector lines. Filled the tank with 32:1 or better. After a very careful easy ride home just before my driveway it died again. A couple days later I started it again and verified the oil pump wasn't pumping.
All things seem to point to an oil seizure followed by a lean seizure, right?
One thing I neglected to mention was that my fuel tank was full of a light mixture due to replacing the oil injector lines. Say 100:1 or less.
So today I took off the cylinders and the results don't look like what I've seen from seizures. I am no expert of course. What do you guys think?
Looks like some ugliness on the intake side and a bit of charge getting past the rings but I'm not sure what else.
I had a similar situ some years back with a kinked oil line. I *smelled* the overheated barrels at a stop lite. I found similar seize evidence when I took off the top end... In my case, I cleaned it up and ran it till the next "big one" which came some time later with a twisted rod...
Looks like the right side got some minor scuffing, but not a issue as far as a seizure. I would take off the piston, buff it with red fine scotchbrite then wash and re-install.
Re-use the clips just be very careful taking them out and then pull on it to stretch it a little and put it back in...done many racebikes for years re-using clips.
Chuck
So it must not have seized?
Since I need new base gaskets I think I'll just grab fresh clips anyway. Hopefully I'm back to ring-dinging next weekend.
Thanks once again Chuck!
Your inscription is still very legible in the heads!
You might have a hard time finding those clips as they're specific to that HVC branded piston.
OEM, pro-X and wiseco/wossner (same) are ALL different than these.
C
***Added to clarify...
D'oh!
Your rings are still there, thats not a major seizure. Clean up and blast away :righteous:
In case anybody is looking HVC does stock wrist pin clips for there R5 pistons. :vroom:
Speaking of wrist pins. I don't remember having any trouble removing the old wrist pins. These slide a few mm but just stop in there tracks dead solid. Can't budge em...
I'm trying to re use the pistons...
Buy a piston pin puller. Don't force the pin out, you might bend the connecting rod.
You're probably right, will do.
How does the cylinder(s) look?
If you have the top end off, you might as well put new gaskets in the thing. If you want to do a little more, then I would replace your rings and hone the cylinder while its already out.
Head gaskets annealed and base gaskets on the way.
He won't need new rings... This is a TEAM SCREAM RACING built topend that doesn't have that many miles on it, so I know they're not worn out or needing honed out any bigger to sacrifice piston clearance life in the cylinders. I use special sunnen industrial grit honing stones to get long life out of my bore jobs.
If he would have had a major seizure...it would be different plan.
Piston pins can hammer back and forth in the pistons and cause the clip grooves to get peened up, so yes... a piston pin puller needs to be used when that happens. Buy a small one as these are only 16mm pin diameter.
Chuck
You'd think an engine builder would be pushing for a rebuild, etc. Chuck is a class act though helping to find a cost effective way to solve this problem.
:patriot:
:bang:
Rebuilt new (used) oil pump. Same problem... I can manually spin the starter wheel and it's fine. As soon as I get going the lines start filling with air. It seems to get worse with more throttle.
The only thing I can think of is bad check valve springs in the spouts.
Any opinions?
I love the pump and it worked fine until I got these damn clear lines...
So tell me why if you rebuilt the pump you didn't use John's oem full kit from Economy Cycles?
His kit comes with new oem yamaha check valve springs...
Didn't you pull the pressed in nipples and change them?
IMO, if you do all of the above, use OEM Part # 90445-05M07-00 lines and quit worrying about it, just tune it.
Just trying to make sense of what your doing...
Chuck
So you're thinking it's bad check valves?
Two reasons I didn't get the OEM kit from Econ.
HVC sells the the tiny plungers that I spent two hours looking for last time I rebuilt a pump.
Also I only saw a couple of seals in that kit and I thought there were four total.
Oh and I needed the wrist pin clips from HVC.....
I mostly try to use OEM. I'll try this again, with the right parts.
Quote from: Czakky on June 18, 2019, 09:07:52 PM
So you're thinking it's bad check valves?
Two reasons I didn't get the OEM kit from Econ.
HVC sells the the tiny plungers that I spent two hours looking for last time I rebuilt a pump.
Also I only saw a couple of seals in that kit and I thought there were four total.
Oh and I needed the wrist pin clips from HVC.....
I mostly try to use OEM. I'll try this again, with the right parts.
If you are that frustrated with it you can always send the pump to a fella on the ACRD forum named Arrow. Apparently rebuilding these pumps is what he's known for. But, he's also in the UK. However, he wrote up instructions to follow that helped me out immensely when I rebuilt mine with new seals (HVC kit as well). At the time I didn't know about the rest of the parts (check ball etc) and mine were not leaking oil, so I left it as it was.
http://www.aircooledrdclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=50421.0
There's also these instruction on full engine rebuild with a step by step on full oil pump rebuild. The tips and tricks he shows are essential to prevent searching for parts for 2 hours. Even with this I almost did the same thing you did with the plungers.
Oh well, that link still shows replacing the springs...
I do offer pump rebuilding...but guess with the old site going away none of my info is around anymore. :bang:
Pic's of testing when I'm done...no bubbles.
I made a funnel as a oil supply tank...
Chuck
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/guillermosrd400videos/large/20170502_123824.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/guillermosrd400videos/large/20170502_123750.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/guillermosrd400videos/large/20170502_123801.jpg)
If I wasn't so efficient at rebuilding these things at this point I'd take you up on that service Chuck. I'm just learning the lessons the hard way....
One other thought I had. Are the spigots supposed to coordinate with a cylinder?
The left cylinder is quite a bit further but pressure being equal and all I didn't think it would matter.
That's a thought...I've just always ran them the way Yamaha did it stock, bottom outlet on the pump-right carb, top outlet on the pump-left carb.
Chuck
Opposite how I had mine... Problems started after I installed clear lines and probably switched them. Either way I'm rebuilding the pump, again.
you're a lot like me, can't seem to catch a break with your bike...but you just gotta keep on turning wrenches.
@Quocle. It has been a super reliable bike until this year...
While I wait on parts from Economy Cycle, here's my rundown.
After rebuild it seemed like the pump was working fine so I upped my jet size to be on the safe side as I also had fresh coils. With the 160 mains (previous 150s) it ran ok until 7k rpm then it hit a wall. I had it in my head due to previous experience that it was rich. Even though the wisdom of this forum would've told me to try and go up first I dropped the mains down to 150. So next ride the pump fails etc. Now I've got a full gas tank and I want to run a gallon of pre-mix after pump is rebuilt again. So I disconnect the pump and mix oil to my 2/3 full gas tank. She's running good but once warm I give it full throttle and it just dies. I did go up one size on the mains to 155 to account for the premix. It seems I didn't go up enough and in fact I have been lean since replacing my coils. :bang:
So now I will throw 170 mains in. I'm getting good at swapping mains.
I'm not really asking a question just detailing my struggles in hopes that it might help somebody.
Bad coil(s) will not let you go anywhere at low RPMs once they are heated up. When I was riding with a bad coil, if I were to idle and twist my throttle...it would not do anything except die. One time, I had to wait in the hot sun at the beach for awhile until the coil cooled down for it to fire back up and ride away. At high rpms the plugs would spark and fire accordingly, so I just took the highway back home. Took me awhile to trace the issue, checked my fuel, timing, compression, jetting, etc.
You can't really jet until everything is kosher and running well. No air leaks, timed properly, strong spark, plenty of compression, and etc.
That's not entirely true, sometimes a bad coil is bad all of the time, hot, cold, low or high RPM. When mine quit, it quit all together, I ride the bike to work, it ran fine, left for lunch and it dropped one cylinder pretty much immediately and it was done. Had to ride it home on one cylinder. Swapped the coil out for that side and it ran again.
Quote from: SUPERTUNE on June 20, 2019, 12:14:19 AM
That's a thought...I've just always ran them the way Yamaha did it stock, bottom outlet on the pump-right carb, top outlet on the pump-left carb.
Chuck
You guys got me wondering if the pump outputs are side-specific. I went to an official Yamaha R5B Service Manual to see what it offered.
There is no actual text that states which spigot is for which side.
There are multiple clear photos that show the oil line routing just as Chuck stated. Bottom spigot, right carb. Top spigot, left carb.
Talk about minutia...
It took looking at separate two photos with a magnifying glass to really see the routing...
(https://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff131/aaaltered468/DE38CE49-98C7-4DFE-A350-27BCDC68F02C.jpg) (http://s239.photobucket.com/user/aaaltered468/media/DE38CE49-98C7-4DFE-A350-27BCDC68F02C.jpg.html)
(https://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff131/aaaltered468/2BFCBA49-444C-41D0-990F-1B438A288BD1.jpg) (http://s239.photobucket.com/user/aaaltered468/media/2BFCBA49-444C-41D0-990F-1B438A288BD1.jpg.html)
Quote from: Jspooner on June 20, 2019, 06:15:39 PM
That's not entirely true, sometimes a bad coil is bad all of the time, hot, cold, low or high RPM. When mine quit, it quit all together, I ride the bike to work, it ran fine, left for lunch and it dropped one cylinder pretty much immediately and it was done. Had to ride it home on one cylinder. Swapped the coil out for that side and it ran again.
Consider me fortunate. I was just speaking from my experience. I guess I could have phrased it better... :whistle:
At 6k RPM without fail this thing just starts bogging and running like crap. It can sort of "clean out" for a bit and sort of buck and make power but then even if I close throttle it will die..... Definitely not a throttle position thing it is at 6k every time.
I'm freaking lost again.
Quote from: Czakky on June 21, 2019, 11:51:41 AM
At 6k RPM without fail this thing just starts bogging and running like crap. It can sort of "clean out" for a bit and sort of buck and make power but then even if I close throttle it will die..... Definitely not a throttle position thing it is at 6k every time.
I'm freaking lost again.
If you can't tell if its lean or rich do this, while you are riding it and it is doing what you say at said RPM just open the choke and see if it gets better of worse, if it gets better that means you are lean, if it gets worse that means you are rich, if it doesn't change anything then you could have another problem or you are waaaaayyyy lean. What do your plugs look like?
It sounds like an ignition issue - which usually means it's actually carbs.
I'd suggest removing the carbs and clean out all the passages and particularly the main air jet passage. If that's blocked, the fuel is drawn in in big lumps and they don't burn well. Fuel droplets are actually liquid and it's the vapor around the droplet that burns. Air through the main air jet helps to break large droplets down to smaller ones and that provides more surface area and more complete burning. With poor atomization you can have raw fuel in the exhaust and a mixture that reads lean. That apparent dichotomy is because not much fuel is burning.
Those carbs should just have a drilling IIRC without an actual air jet, so it should be easy to see if they are clean once the needle jets are removed.
I would say to check your ignition system carefully. Go through it all, set the timing for 1.9btdc check your point gap new plugs and check that plug gap! I can tell you from direct experience if your ignition is off in any way you will have problems! The fact that it is rpm related leads me to think it's a plug or timing problem. Chuck helped me at the gap this year with my "jetting". Turns out it was everything but jetting! Timing was way off dropped the plug range by one and switched to pump gas. Night and day difference (I was at 0 timng) so def check that stuff off first then move to jetting cheers-Ian
I appreciate all the advice!
I checked and double checked timing. That won't stop me from triple checking though.
I like Teazer's suggestion of checking the air jet. I just had the carbs apart but I didn't remove the needle jet.
After checking the timing... again, I will try your suggestion JSpooner. I think I tried that already but that might've been a few jets ago.
I would clean with an ultrasonic cleaner. I got one off Ebay for 20 bucks and it's great.
I've got another rebuilt oil injector now with fresh check valve springs. Seems to work just fine.
My running issues continue. Fresh plugs, no change. The old plugs were pretty black with a good amount of oil.
I tried Jspooner's suggestion and hit the choke when I'm having issues and it definitely didn't help.
I'm going to try fresh(er) condensers and see if that helps.
Any recommendations on R5 condensers?
Quote from: Czakky on June 23, 2019, 08:38:06 PM
I've got another rebuilt oil injector now with fresh check valve springs. Seems to work just fine.
My running issues continue. Fresh plugs, no change. The old plugs were pretty black with a good amount of oil.
I tried Jspooner's suggestion and hit the choke when I'm having issues and it definitely didn't help.
I'm going to try fresh(er) condensers and see if that helps.
Any recommendations on R5 condensers?
Go to your auto parts store and just get cheap 2 dollar condensors. They will work fine.
https://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-distributor-condenser-g635/3031810-P?fbclid=IwAR2RbdPQkpH00CJrQNmPYsDw4RYsXTeS12EdJrrfPmYiTKvUEYdJ27ifyCk
http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/G635/03461.oap?year=1976&make=MG&model=MGB&vi=1204816&ck=Search_03461_1204816_-1&pt=03461&ppt=C0330&fbclid=IwAR0Vb_mlbHjM7HOqVUhmN6y93NUq5qnH1L3iyYGYkNtjsMROsrlueXUGCrs
Quote from: quocle603 on June 23, 2019, 09:38:01 PM
Quote from: Czakky on June 23, 2019, 08:38:06 PM
I've got another rebuilt oil injector now with fresh check valve springs. Seems to work just fine.
My running issues continue. Fresh plugs, no change. The old plugs were pretty black with a good amount of oil.
I tried Jspooner's suggestion and hit the choke when I'm having issues and it definitely didn't help.
I'm going to try fresh(er) condensers and see if that helps.
Any recommendations on R5 condensers?
Go to your auto parts store and just get cheap 2 dollar condensors. They will work fine.
https://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-distributor-condenser-g635/3031810-P?fbclid=IwAR2RbdPQkpH00CJrQNmPYsDw4RYsXTeS12EdJrrfPmYiTKvUEYdJ27ifyCk
http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/G635/03461.oap?year=1976&make=MG&model=MGB&vi=1204816&ck=Search_03461_1204816_-1&pt=03461&ppt=C0330&fbclid=IwAR0Vb_mlbHjM7HOqVUhmN6y93NUq5qnH1L3iyYGYkNtjsMROsrlueXUGCrs
+1 they will work fine. ford tractor works too.
Are the jets new genuine Mikuni or used and maybe worn out. How does a jet get worn out? By owners sticking drill bits and wires through them to get the clean. And dirty jets need more vigorous "cleaning". In other words they are now too large.
Jets are cheap and life is short.
What an awesome forum! Two people reached out to me to try and help. :patriot:
@Teazer All the brass is new as of 1.5 years ago installed by me. The bike has ran great until recently.
After chatting with Quocle yesterday I think we decided the best next step is to do a real deep clean on the carbs. Then try the new condensers. After that I will try my old coils one at a time.
Stay posted. Thanks again for the support.
Oil pump not working.... It's got to be a restriction at the tank at this point. :bang:
Quote from: Czakky on June 25, 2019, 09:12:01 PM
Oil pump not working.... It's got to be a restriction at the tank at this point. :bang:
Mine flows about that much...
Thanks Striker
Try removing the filler cap and see if it flows. If so you need a breather hole in the cap.
R5s have a separate breather tube, mine is and was clear. Good idea though.
IS there no strainer gauze in the tank outlet?
That's about right on oil flow...
C
I am starting to think it's an electrical issue. Doesnt hurt to clean the carbs.
old saying:
most jetting issues are electrical. :devil:
@ Barrie, there was when I cleaned the tank 1-1/2 years ago. I will look tonight.
As far as the oil pump goes I'm at a total loss at this point. I will take it apart again but I don't know what I could've missed... twice.
@Quocle, The running issues are most definitely an electric issue I'm confident of that. First things first though I'm going to solve the pumping issue.
Quote from: m in sc on June 26, 2019, 04:28:49 PM
old saying:
most jetting issues are electrical. :devil:
I give up... :umm:
Yup I took apart the oil pump again and no change.
This thread has gotten a little convoluted... my fault.
Here's a quick rundown. After a rebuild the oil pump ran perfect for almost two years. This winter I decided to throw on some clear injector lines. I pinched the feed line with a vice grip, released, primed the pump and filled the new clear injector lines. Shortly after I noticed some poor running. In hindsight it might've been oil starved. I replaced the coils as I was thinking it was the cause of said poor running. Then was stranded on the side of the road due to a seizure. Oil was certainly not pumping at that point, clear lines had a few inches of air in them. I then rebuilt my original pump with a generic rebuild kit (no check springs). Same exact thing... Then a forum member donated a new/used pump and I rebuilt this one using the Economy Cycle kit that includes check valve springs.... Same exact thing. Rinse, repeat. I've gone over my work replace all seals and associated gaskets. Same exact thing.
It primes easy fills the lines, no bubbles. Then I go for a ride and the injector lines fill half way with air.....
I'm at a loss. If I wasn't so hard headed I'd give up.
Am I doomed to premix?
Open the pump and see if the bubbles migrate up the lines,
also if more bubbles are seen coming out of the pump. Is the bleed screw sealing properly?
When you say open the pump, do you mean the bleed screw?
Quote from: quocle603 on June 26, 2019, 07:55:45 PM
Quote from: m in sc on June 26, 2019, 04:28:49 PM
old saying:
most jetting issues are electrical. :devil:
I give up... :umm:
look back 2 pages. :twocents:
Quote from: Czakky on July 01, 2019, 01:32:31 PM
When you say open the pump, do you mean the bleed screw?
With engine at idling , open the pump to WOT using the cable, do more air bubbles come out of the pump ?
Maybe a few pinhead sized bubbles but not much more.
Your pump woes are bleed related. As an aside... I build computers as a hobby, mainly for myself and friends. I have fitted and refitted water cooling loops on multiple computers. The hardest part that takes the longest is getting all the air out of the system. Even when you think it's done it might surprise you.
Crack the bleed screw, let drain a minute or so. This clears air from the oil feed pipe and forces it out the pump. Close bleed screw and start bike on premix. Vary opening and closing the pump with the cable at idle. Then try giving it various cracks of the throttle. Air can be very stubborn to become dislodged in close looped systems.
This same method helps me with computers it's just an electric pump and a lot of jiggling and moving the computer to the sides etc.
You can even lay the bike towards the side before cracking the bleed screw if it's being stubborn. Just not far enough to let air back in the feed line or out the overflow tube.
I guess my only thought is that if it had air in the pump would I still be able to prime the injector lines?
I will try and give it another go. Vigor restored!
I tried bleeding as described, twice... Same thing.
I was surprised to see a little burp the first time I opened the bleed screw yesterday, but since then I've been unable to get any air out.
It goes like this: Bleed, prime until injector lines are solid, idling, everything looks good. Go down the road a mile and the left line particularly has 2-3 inches of air sloshing around. Re-prime, same thing.
It is very possible air is still trapped inside the pump. But, what does the pump do applying throttle? Have you watched to make sure the pump is functioning correctly? I don't mean to sound redundant, but if for some reason the throttle cable split to the pump isn't opening the pump (i.e. it is broken or falls off), a similar thing can happen.
If the pump is working as intended at higher RPM's visually, then I'd say the pump is either pulling outside air in, or there's air trapped still. Start it and see what's coming out of each line. Give it some gas and see if you can re-create what it's doing in the driveway. Obviously be careful but taking it for a ride and coming back to notice the issue isn't resolved doesn't quite tell you the whole story, savvy?
Yeah, I've got the cover off and can watch it pump. With throttle applied it opens the stroke as it should.
Revving it in the driveway doesn't put air in the line, I've tried all pump positions. Something happens with sustained revs even on a short ride the injector line fills with air.
It's a quick ride. With premix in the tank I'm being careful, if that's what you mean.
Quote from: Czakky on July 01, 2019, 12:31:52 PM
This winter I decided to throw on some clear injector lines.
Reading through this it seems that right there is where your problems began. I would speculate that a line/lines are not properly sealed on the barb and its sucking air.
That's pretty much what I'm left with. I've clipped the ends several times but I'm willing to try this as a last ditch effort. It doesn't seem plausible but I can hope.
Buy OEM yamaha black lines.
C
Low and behold that's what I had and for some reason out of paranoia I switched to clear. Then the trouble started... At this point I have to see what it's doing though.
Right?
Yambits makes clear lines to spec. I have those on my 400 no problem. I just put on a clear tygon line that runs from the tank to the pump and have the yambits lines from the pump to the carbs. The OD on the tygon line is a little bigger than stock. I haven't had any issues with the few miles I've put on since it's been installed.
Spring clips on the ends are always a good idea.
I run clear Yambits stuff on all of mine and no problems.
I am running some blue tygon fuel line on mine. Works fine.
Spring clips for sure are on. I did buy the hose from one of the RD people (HVC or Econ), but who knows. I will try and get the other clear line run tonight and report back soon.
I thought I had some clear injector hose. I ordered some from Yambits.
Quote from: Czakky on July 04, 2019, 03:40:18 PM
I thought I had some clear injector hose. I ordered some from Yambits.
m
I have a set I can send you.
That's nice of you but I've got some on the way.
I think you are on the right track. I am wondering if the lines to the carbs are pulling air around the fittings on the pump during deceleration (high vac). That is would explain why everything looks good at idle or just setting still. You could test with a vac pump.
I have Tygon lines on mine with spring clamps.
I'm not ready count my chickens yet, but remember that the injector lines on an R5 go straight to the hot cylinders too. So maybe the clear lines I bought work on an RD (carb fed) but might soften on an R5 causing them to open and pull in air.....
I'm going to be out of town for a few days, but hopefully I'll have an answer next week.
Quote from: Czakky on July 05, 2019, 08:27:43 AM
I'm not ready count my chickens yet, but remember that the injector lines on an R5 go straight to the hot cylinders too. So maybe the clear lines I bought work on an RD (carb fed) but might soften on an R5 causing them to open and pull in air.....
I'm going to be out of town for a few days, but hopefully I'll have an answer next week.
Bill, take some time to R&R. Come back to it in a few with a cleared mind. When you solve it, you'll be blasting :vroom:
New injector lines... same problem. Tank is full of 40:1, oil pump gone. I tried, maybe I'll pass this pump along to have a pro rebuild it.
I'm a bit ashamed to admit that I've had a hand in rebuilding geothermal pumps driven by 450 hp motors the size of a VW. These little guys are apparently beyond me.... :bang:
Quote from: Czakky on July 10, 2019, 03:33:58 PM
New injector lines... same problem. Tank is full of 40:1, oil pump gone. I tried, maybe I'll pass this pump along to have a pro rebuild it.
I'm a bit ashamed to admit that I've had a hand in rebuilding geothermal pumps driven by 450 hp motors the size of a VW. These little guys are apparently beyond me.... :bang:
Sorry to hear that. Upped the main jets for premix?
Upjet and start blasting with premix. You can figure out the issue during the winter time.
I've got it at 155 mains, 160 seemed rich. I was at 145 and 150 safely on the pump. Either way on the needles notch seems to decrease performance..... atleast on the pump.
What is the deal with the throttle cable splitter? Does it come apart?
Quote from: Czakky on July 11, 2019, 07:30:33 PM
What is the deal with the throttle cable splitter? Does it come apart?
If its the same or similar to the RD's. Yes. The top cable goes in and there's a cover over that junction. The cover separates from the body of the splitter and allows access inside the housing to get to the individual cables and splitter block. Should pop apart fairly easily.
Very old thread, but in short: OEM injector lines good, clear lines bad!
http://www.aircooledrdclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=61543.0
Not sure if you need to be a member or not.
Quote from: Czakky on August 27, 2020, 05:47:36 PM
Very old thread, but in short: OEM injector lines good, clear lines bad!
http://www.aircooledrdclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=61543.0
Not sure if you need to be a member or not.
Not sure if I buy the heat and vacuum explanation. There is not much vacuum, and there are too many people not having any issues with clear lines.
Besides if you put on black Yamaha lines does it magically go away or you just cant see it.
I had problems with my pump because there first the tank was dirty and then I was getting a bubble in the feed line. I only found that when I switched to a clear line. Wiggled the bubble out and no more issues with clear lines and Yamaha clips.
Not sure, I had OEM line originally but my bike seized after installing clear lines. I primed the pump many times spending a lot of time getting air bubbles out. As soon as I would go for a ride the left injector line would fill with air. I tried atleast two types of clear lines. This is of course on an R5 (cylinder injection). Switched to OEM black lines and both pipes smoke equally always. Many other changes since then as well though. :twocents:
Quote from: Czakky on August 27, 2020, 06:59:49 PM
Not sure, I had OEM line originally but my bike seized after installing clear lines. I primed the pump many times spending a lot of time getting air bubbles out. As soon as I would go for a ride the left injector line would fill with air. I tried atleast two types of clear lines. This is of course on an R5 (cylinder injection). Switched to OEM black lines and both pipes smoke equally always. Many other changes since then as well though. :twocents:
Those are magical black OEM lines.
I use the clear lines that yambits sells. Have not had any problems with them. I even run them on my TZ motor.