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At around 5000rmp I shift gears and I see the hesitation at 4500 to 5500 rmp

Stock pipes and uni pod filters

need help with the plug reading

running on powerdyno cdi kit, i feel the bike is hesitating a bit at mid range , 30 pilot and 210 main

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNVBH3lD1JA&t=3s


cheers
Naveen

and she is ready to roll

Hi

I have couple of questions after reading a lot about the pros of using 2t pump i have decided to service my pump and use it

1) what is the 2t fuel line size that goes from 2t tank to the 2t pump

2) what size for 2t pump to the carb injector nozzle

3) is there any sort of 2t fuel line filters like how we have for petrol to capture any dust ?

4) i am planning to run on fully synthetic oil so that the oil is thin and the pump has less effort to pump oil  (is that a valid point )?

For petcock to carbs i have got 6.5mm ID  polyetherin pipes will thy fit the 2tank to 2t pump


Cheers

Naveen

Thanks for the pictures. This helps maybe I can mount a bracket to replicate

I have us spec seat and the frame is indian rd.. apart from the front foot rest everything is identical. However i have been trying to understand where or how the support hanger under the seat  needs to be set..i dont see any locking mechanism or a place it is supposed to sit tight..

Most of the time it is hanging around

thats awesome. I love the old shocks. 

Ya absolutely.. it's a beautiful looking bike overall

Done with engine work and mounted on to the cycle

Got the chrome and decal work done

 

 8)

yes rd springs

Agree 100% with Lyn.  Number of cc is only a guide to the "right amount".  I tend to use a little higher oil level, but don't go too high.  More oil means more air pressure when forks are collapsed ie stiffer springing effect.  Too much and it pops or leaks past seals.

But you must set sag as well and you may need to add longer (or shorter) pre-load spacers.

When the forks are together on a complete bike, push down hard at the front and let it return.  It should take about a second to compress and to rebound. If it slams down or back up, that indicates insufficient damping for the spring rates fitted.  If it take a long time to compress or return, there's too much damping for those springs.

Stiffer springs require more rebound damping to balance forces than light springs.

Absolutely great ..in general how much oil might go into each tube .. i see my forks are a bit hard

The method I use is to remove the spring and make sure there is no oil remaining in the fork.  Then add 6.5 oz of 20wt for oil, collapse the fork several times, working the slider all the way up and down, ending with the slider all the way up.  Measure the height of the oil from the top of the fork tube.  It should be six inches.  Add oil if necessary.  Look into the fork to ensure that the emulator (if used) or the valve is covered with the oil.  If not, add oil until it is covered.  Make the levels in both forks as close as possible but a little difference isn't important.  This method was taught me by Matt Wiley of Race Tech for my RDs but should work in all forks.
Lyn Garland

Cheers bro will try that,