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Clutch actuation rd400

Started by rd400greenhorn, April 12, 2020, 07:49:40 AM

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rd400greenhorn

Allright
So i assembled the clutch action in the engine cover, brand new set of a xs400.

The worm drive, What grease should i fill that with?🤔

I believe there is a Ball in the worm drive, going onto the pushrod,
But should there be a Ball on the other side of the pushrod, in the clutch?
If so, when do you put that in, from clutch side or?


3 question :
The clutch adjustment screw and nut, how do I go about those?
I have adjustet /tighten the cable at the lever and it gets tight and I can feel Its working the clutch,. Allthough iam not sure Its All out. 🤔


The clutch is with stronger springs and 7 disc set as I remeber.

The engine is tuned


rd400greenhorn

As far as I see in haynes manual, the one Ball goes in on clutch side and the other in the clutch actuator.

Now do I have a Ball in the clutch side... 🤔 Not sure..


rd400greenhorn

Ah, it became clear when i remove the clutch cover and puled the pushrod out on the other side


Iam gonna assembke with a bevaring now and keep the engine cover off to see if the clutch engages ;D

rd400greenhorn

So....

A real question

Got everything back together, greased up and everything
The cable.. I Cant move it, I Cant even get it into the lever..

Anyone have tips to this?

It has atronger springs and clutch plates


m in sc

did you adjust the actuator loose first? it needs to be loose, then install the cable, bar adjuster all the way in, then do motor adjustment, then bar. I'm going to guess the arm is maxed out in there.  if not, then look at your basket make sure you have the stack in there correctly.


rd400greenhorn

Yes the adjust ment screw is loose,
Everything is loose behind the cover.
But when i try to pull the cable with My hands it wont budge.

And Cant even make it on the lever

Iam sure the clutch is assembke correct but Its a long time ago.

rd400greenhorn

So..
Not sure why and or if Its the right way?

But loosend the clutch springs removed al but 2

Then i got it to work, put the cable in place in the lever, and put All the bolts back in the clutch, torqued, loosend the adjustment screw on the clutch actuator, and it works like a champ.

Its gonna train My left Fingers i can tell😅

Maan it feels good to get something working on this project

m in sc

beats me, something was bound up. looks like you got it.   :bacon:

rd400greenhorn

Yup.

So i wanted to see if the gears actually shift and got the vintage smoke gear lever on there, sort of.

Is it easy to shift gears when just stranding there?
Because i found it damn Hard, actually i also tighten the adjuster a bit, not sure if that works Any? But I thought that maybe the clutch wasent fully engaged, Which prevented a gear shift??

But I got it in gear, and I think even 1, neutral, 2, 3, 4, 5??


oxford

Most motorcycles I have had did not always want to go into gear with the motor not running.  Usually took a little rocking and then they would go in.

m in sc

you need to be rotating the input or output shaft as to not force the cog dogs together.  :twocents:

Dvsrd

Quote from: rd400greenhorn on April 12, 2020, 01:56:27 PM
Yup.

So i wanted to see if the gears actually shift and got the vintage smoke gear lever on there, sort of.

Is it easy to shift gears when just stranding there?
Because i found it damn Hard, actually i also tighten the adjuster a bit, not sure if that works Any? But I thought that maybe the clutch wasent fully engaged, Which prevented a gear shift??

But I got it in gear, and I think even 1, neutral, 2, 3, 4, 5??
For shifting with a non- running engine, you do not use the clutch. Just rock the bike back and forth. And all RDs have 6 gears (Early Europe RD350 had 6th blanked off at the rh end of shift drum.)

SUPERTUNE

Did you make sure the clutch outer pressure plate clocked correctly? There is 3 timing marks on the outside and one mark on the inside of the inner hub. the pressure plate can go on 3 right and 3 wrong if not clocked correctly.

You can tell if it's right by the pressure plate all the way in pressing against the clutch fiber plate, when wrong the pressure plate doesn't go all the way down to the fiber plate.

You can see the 3 clocking (timing marks) in these pics.





You can see the clocking dot on the inner hub in this pic...it's about at the 5 o'clock position.



Chuck


RD machine work, boring, porting, cranks and engine building.


Chuck 'SUPERTUNE' Quenzler III
Team Scream Racing LLC
1920 Sherwood St. STE A
Clearwater, FL. 33765
cqsupertune@tampabay.rr.com

SUPERTUNE

From right to left from the pressure plate.
Lifter, ball, pushrod, actuator, (that has a pinned in ball) then the adjuster with jam nut.

Assemble with the adjuster screw loose and all the way out with the cable installed in actuator and cable in handlebar lever assembly and adjuster screwed all the way in. Then mount side cover on engine.

Go to the actuator screw and turn in until it gets almost tight (no clearance) now back off no more than a 1/4 turn, jam the lock nut.
Now adjust out the cable slack at the lever leaving 3-4mm slack.

Use only OEM Yamaha clutch cable (still available for RD400's) as they are teflon lined and are way better than any motion pro or aftermarket cable.
I have used 400 cables on 350's... but had to make a tubing spacer at the engine case as the 400 inner cable is too long to work on a 350 setup.
Lube with Tri Flow lubricant and a cable luber.

Chuck
RD machine work, boring, porting, cranks and engine building.


Chuck 'SUPERTUNE' Quenzler III
Team Scream Racing LLC
1920 Sherwood St. STE A
Clearwater, FL. 33765
cqsupertune@tampabay.rr.com

rd400greenhorn

Ahh i wondered what those 3 arrows went pointing at...
Thanks again Chuck, i Will check if its on correct