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One of last year's winners:

October 3rd (rain date Oct 17th) 9am - 2pm @ Lighthouse Christian Church  in Powell (North of Knoxville), TN. We expect some great old (maybe some new) machines. Ride or trailer in, we don't care. Good church food and fellowship. Flyer and map are here:

This one says "LOUD" on it, but I've never heard it even in a car. But, the '78 and '79 GL1000s have signal beepers as part of the system.

Thanks! I've made an offer (I most always make an offer if the option is listed).

I think the auto trans is a Marketplace automatic thing unless turned off. Yes, close by me too. Back about '73 there was one in the dealership showroom in Saratoga NY. Some buddies and I took turns picking the front end off the floor. I was considering purchase if I got my lump sum reenlistment bonus. But, they wouldn't permit a test drive (go figure - three sailors - we could be trusted!) Instead, I bought my first bike!

Still better than the non-lit pictures of stuff piled on a bike in a shed. That second one they at least pulled them out into the sun!

So, RD400 seat hinges being priced high (low supply), are there any other Yamahas that have similar hinges that will substitute? I understand the XS 650s might - any others? I don't mind elongating mounting holes and such. I think that I will probably have to spring for a Vietnamese seat for mine as the set pan is quite rotten (and of course, missing the hinges).

Come on! That is just an excellent opportunity to make some nice alloy hinges [emoji16] With a plastic seat pan, you'll save some weight too.....At least the Yambits seats are a lot lighter than stock.

Ah, but I see no RD400c seats on Yambits search. Make one from alloy? I'd mill one out if I had an example to go from. Anyone have measurements?

So, RD400 seat hinges being priced high (low supply), are there any other Yamahas that have similar hinges that will substitute? I understand the XS 650s might - any others? I don't mind elongating mounting holes and such. I think that I will probably have to spring for a Vietnamese seat for mine as the set pan is quite rotten (and of course, missing the hinges).

NAPA here carries an electronic flasher that I've used successfully on two GL1000s, One CB750F, a car and a truck. The great part is that they do not care about incandescent or LED load, they just flash.

VC is my go-to site for refurbing old GoldWing electricals. Great folks to work with, too. They can custom-make things if asked.

Engine out of frame, one head (left) and jug off. Piston looks new, head spotless, but the cylinder is shiny top and bottom with surface rust in the port area. New piston (.25 over) installed without honing? Will do the measurements over the next few days. A lot on to-do list preparing for a motorcycle/bicycle/craft show at our church in one month. Also a week's beach vacation this month.

I talked with a guy riding a Zero at Barber Vintage Days last year. He said that after an eleven lap run (one warm up, nine racem one cool down) his battery was at 50%. He said that on the standard ports there he could recharge in 30 minutes. He also said that on turbo charger ports like Tesla uses he could recharge in15 minutes. The Zeros (two were there) were pretty quick, one winning the twins race. On flat ground, an electric bike at a price comperable to gasoline powered might be nice. Here in the East Tennessee mountains, the grades eat fuel economy rapidly. I probably wouldn't make the 45 mile Tuesday vintage bike night trip on one.

Failed leak-down. Leak is between the right crank seal and the lower case. Did a compression test with just a dribble of oil in the plug holes and intake. 110 psi both sides. Looks like she will have to come all the way apart.

I think that I saw his article on DTT, too.

The herpes of the electrical world. Poor connection, damaged insulation, and cut strands (resulting in reduced current to your loads). Bad enough when first produced by Scotch, but now cheap copies make them very bad. Vetter sent them with their GoldWing fairings, and the GL1000s that I've rescued have each had a headlight bucket full. Removing them I usually find about half of the copper severed. If just to a signal I might just heal the insulation wound with liquid electrical tape. Otherwise it requires the soldering iron to come out for a proper splice.