emgo coils

[Greaser Greg]

Are the connectors on the leads reversed for the r5\rd harness connections? Is it supposed to be brown from harness to black and yellow to points? 

[m in sc]

brown for power, should be orange and grey to points on a stock system. but you can run the reversed, coils dont care. are they 3 ohm coils?

[Dvsrd]

Actually, I'm pretty sure it matters a bit, at least for ",weak" coils. Reversed primary will make the spark jump from side electrode to center electrode. Side electrode will be cooler than center, so making it harder for the spark to jump the gap. At least this is the " conventional school of thought"

[m in sc]

not true. you aren't reversing the polarity of the whole vehicle.  you are collapsing a field on a winding.     

[Dvsrd]

not true. you aren't reversing the polarity of the whole vehicle.  you are collapsing a field on a winding. 

Sorry, but I have to continue to disagree:

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig104.htm

Single coils, like on Yamaha LS2, RD twins and XS650 are just like old fashioned car coils with regards to this. Dual coils, either battery or CDI, is a different beast.

[Greaser Greg]

For whatever it's worth in my situation, it doesn't seem to matter either way. I have two sets of coils with opposite sex connections and both gave the same variable result. Runs great on either cylinder, one at a time.

[Dvsrd]

For whatever it's worth in my situation, it doesn't seem to matter either way. I have two sets of coils with opposite sex connections and both gave the same variable result. Runs great on either cylinder, one at a time.

I guess I am trying to get two different messages across here. One is to help you get your bike running reasonably well. And the other one is to get the (marginal/ weak) RD ignition system to work as good as it possibly can, within its obvious design limitations. The latter includes coil polarity, charging voltage, and a direct power supply to coils, via a relay and a reasonably heavy gauge wire (minimum 1.5 sq. mm)
The ultimate ignition is still some kind of CDI magneto, like Vape, HPI, or a converted Banshee/ LC/ RZ system. But all of those cost a fair penny and/or some serious effort.

[Greaser Greg]

On the unmolested bike I have the brown wire matches the wires on the coil. Same for the leads to points, they match.  Emgo coils come with leads that do not plug directly into the harness.  P.o. of this project switched the connectors (freakin' automotive style) to match the harness.
My question is: what color on the coil goes to the points wires, yellow?  That leaves the black wire on the coil for the power from brown harness wire. 
That's what gets me; why does the power (positive?) from the brown connect to the black wire, which is usually for negative? 
The diagram in the manual doesn't specify polarity of the colored points wires.

[Dvsrd]

I am not familiar with the Emgo coils. Maybe Google knows what is + and what is -
Brown to + and gray/ orange to -
Have you sorted out the other issues?  Poor voltage at coil +, and possible sgort to ground between coils and points. For the bike to run properly, everything needs to be 100%.
Why not use oem coils, if they are in order?
Btw, what caps, and what plugs. And what HT leads?

[Greaser Greg]

I am not familiar with the Emgo coils. Maybe Google knows what is + and what is -
Brown to + and gray/ orange to -

The only info I found (in an ad) was that black is negative, yellow positive. That's why I'm asking here, to verify.  I have two sets with opposite connections, one has been changed from how it was delivered.

Battery at 12.5. 12.08 ignition on and 11.39 at brown wire to coils.
Other bike runs with similar numbers.
When I disconnect the 4 pin plug from he ignition and test for v i get a full 12 between the brown wires and orange at the plug.
I think I'll go ride  something that works and figure this out ant night.
I appreciate everyones help.

[Dvsrd]

Battery at 12.5. 12.08 ignition on and 11.39 at brown wire to coils.
Other bike runs with similar numbers.
When I disconnect the 4 pin plug from he ignition and test for v i get a full 12 between the brown wires and orange at the plug.

You are seeing more than 1V drop from battery to coils. That is pretty horrible, even if the running bike is the same. Which 4 pin plug? At the RH side of the engine?

Please try to understand the concept of voltsge drop. When no current is flowing, even only 1 "whisker" of copper will provide full voltage at coil + terminal. But since the coil primary  winding is around 4 ohms, at 12 volt at battery, a 3 amp current will flow from battery, through harness, switches, coils, points and to ground.  When points are closed. 

Now, as an example:  If you have just 0.5 ohm additional resistance in harness and switches between battery and coils, the current will drop accordingly, since total resistance is now 4.5 Ohm. The current will be reduced to 2.7 amps. And even worse, due to the voltage drop caused by that 0.5 ohm resistance in wiring and switches, the voltage at the coil is now only 10.65  V.

I may be repeating myself too much, but the RD ignition is just one step above poor, when everything is in perfect condition. So any poor conductivity will cause grief. So make sure your charging voltage, with high beam on, is above 14 V at 3-4000 rpm. And get a fuse holder, a relay, and 1 m of minimum 1.5 sq.mm wire.

[m in sc]

It will work either way, of that i'm 100% sure. I've done it. also keep in mind.. emgo coils were designed for british bikes that were positive earth and have just been made since then. ;) I'm not kidding, they are direct drop-ins for triumphs and bsa's, that's why they are the shape and size they are.

regardless, its more than likely a shit battery or charging issue or  bad connection as stated.

[AAAltered]

I found some notes from when I wired in Emgo coils with a Dyna on an R5.

"Gray coil -> black on the Right Side coil.  Orange coil -> white on the Left side"

[Greaser Greg]

I wonder if that's the same for stock ignition?  I'll try it!