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The motor I picked up has a broken rear mount witch as it turns out is a perfect fit with the Rd rear mount. Ill just cut the entire rear mount off and make a new one that fits the RD frame. Front mount is easy to make a spacer  to tie into whats there. And the rear bottom RD mount can be used to mount the banshee torsion bars ( mounts under the motor). Old LC's without these has issues with the motor moving around and breaking stuff.

Might take a while to get the motor put together, but it wont be hard to fit.

After sitting in boxes for 34 years she is finally alive again.
73 RD350 that was crashed at 360 miles and written off by insurance, sold to a shop, repaired and sold to a guy who raced it in the 70'snd early 80's.
Was then sold to somebody with plans of restoring it cause he sandblasted the hell out of everything with really abrasive media, then it just sat. Probably cause he could not get it registered.
Sold again to a guy with a seized 74 looking for a motor. Well with 30 year old seals and gummed up carbs he never got it running well.
I bought  both bikes as he would not sell the parts bike separately. Its taken me a while to actually get working on her, biut Ive nbeen collecting parts for a while.
Turns out she is super low hours. Still had factory pistons in with no blow by.

I installed a vape ignition rebuilt the motor with Pro X pistons.
The frame had been cut here and there as it was a race bike and the harness was garbage.
Still working on the modified DG pipes ( for now, plan on making my own later) but I could not resist firing her up.
Took a while to get the petcock rebuilt as I had a bit of a spaz attack and put it back together with the wave spring behind the little handle. Took me a while to figure out why it was pissing fuel everywhere.

Four kicks and she roared into very noisy life. All lights and indicators working. Even the kill switch works. That really impressed me as I hate wiring .

Still gotta finish the exhausts, tidy up the angry tarantula of a wiring harness, little bitta paint and switch out the tires that are almost as old as me, figure out the cable rear brake mounts and a few little things  and she will be ready to rip again

Finally got my bike in a box together enough to start wiring
Where do I connect the brown wire that was going from the regulator to the rear stop lamp switch. Im assuming this wire only has power when the bike is running. Do I connect it back to terminal 6 on the regulator on the attached diagram.

So it turns out that the Vape regulator I have with my kit only has 4 wires. It does does not have the green and red wire.
So now what do I do with the brown wire that was connected to the old regulator?

   I used to make/sell a wiring kit and instructions which swapped out the MZB wiring for Yamaha colored wires. Made the MZB installation and integration onto an RD pretty seamless. I still have all the components on hand. Not sure I have any completed kits though. I will post a picture if I find one. Worth 1000 words, as they say.

That would be helpful to check I have done it right before I power things up.

So do I connect the brown wire from the Yamaha harness that was going to the regulator back into  power after the ignition switch?

Does anybody have a simplified diagram of how to connect the power dynamo int the ya,aha harness?
Wiring drives me insane.

Finally got my bike in a box together enough to start wiring
Where do I connect the brown wire that was going from the regulator to the rear stop lamp switch. Im assuming this wire only has power when the bike is running. Do I connect it back to terminal 6 on the regulator on the attached diagram.

It will fit but that's too big for the stock rim size.

Do you know the stock wheel width. The bike has akront rims, not stock

will a 120/80 18 tire fir the back of a 73 RD350?

Id stay away from the Athena kits.

If you are ditching the power valve RZ setup for banshee stuff you will need at minimum porting or you will be disappointed.
If you want something bigger look into the serval kits. Cubs and Cheetas are more for drag racing.
I am leaning towards a 4mm 421cc Serval Wampus that looks identical to stock and is nicasil plated.

Are the 35mm Daytona forks any better than the 34mm?

Not mine, but pretty cool looking

None of them fit. The upper front on the frame will be pretty close height wise but that's it. You will need to make spacers to center it in the frame. Lower rear will not be used. Upper rear is not even close but a mount can be fabbed. The upper rear on the RD frame needs to be removed and a new one welded on. I've done an LC bottom end in a TR3 frame (basically same as an RD frame). If you want I can PM you my number and you can call me and I can explain more in depth how I did it.

thanks for the offer.

If I decide to go ahead I will definitely message you

You also get to plumb for a radiator and associated accessories and weld mounts.  Not sure how much room there is under the spine for the head coolant related bits.

The Banshee transmission is also different than the RZ and may not be great for a street bike.

Where are you out of.

Head water connections go down between the carbs and straight out the front, so no extra height needed, maybe just a few 90 deg bends

Im in Vancouver

I have an opportunity to get a good deal on a Banshee 421, 4mil motor for a good price. I know the motor mounts are not the same, but has anybody put a banshee motor in an aircooled frame and can give me an idea of how much the mounts would have to be modified to make it work

Craigslist steal
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/mcd/d/las-vegas-1976-yamaha-rd-400-finance-it/6921538675.html