and here it is. Picked up friday. its in relatively amazing shape considering the age. yes, the seat is an abomination and the original pan is hacked, so i need something for that. wiring needs to be addressed, had to fix kick starter already as well. but.. i finally got it to run after the carbs were cleaned and some other stuff sorted. motor sounds good, the elec starter actually works, and the frame is rust free. best part, inside the tank looks new. and i had a clear title.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/YL1-initial_03-1.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/YL1-initial_04-1-rotated-e1659377382280.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/YL1-initial_09.jpg)
makes a 350 look like a touring bike.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/YL1-initial_16.jpg)
after i fixed kick start mechanism. yes, oil injection works.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/YL1-initial_11.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/YL1-initial_14.jpg)
does this count as downsizing? :haw:
That thing is sick! Those pipes make the little bikes so much throatier sounding than they deserve to be.
Nice. Mine's running like a champ after giving it a once over. One problem I had was I can't get the main baffles out, just the little 3" end tip pieces. I cleaned the whole pipes the best I could but after about 25 miles of hard running, I noticed it was slowing down bad. I pulled the baffle tips back out and pieces of carbon were blocking the tiny little exit holes on them, 3 on each baffle tip. After cleaning, it was a new machine, both sound and power. :thumbs:
Good find!
Cool! :clap: Congrats Mark
I love it!
got it idling. loudest tiny carbs ever. :dawg:
the rattle is the advance unit. at least i got it to finally idle.
i'll def bun the silencers out, had to do that w the hs1. the headpipes were pretty loaded up, burned them out over the weekend. :Clown:
https://youtube.com/shorts/_kN6hGpBa44?feature=share
It's such a cool little thing. Reminds me of the stamped metal toys my dad had as a kid. And honestly not much bigger.
These are awesome and run like sewing machines!. I just sold my L5T at Vintage Days last weekend and I know I will regret it.
Nice!
Looks good already.
I've got some parts I think.. I'll look and see.
yeah, im digging it so far. always amazes me how beat up some of the little bikes are.. i need to straighten the bars and def ger a RH control, mines broken the brake perch off(no surprise).
it doesnt seem to be charging, so now that i have it idling, i can explore that. have a switch and key on way since the old one was all fucked up.
I am in need of a seat pan, in a bad way. mines all cut up, would prefer to run a stock seat (can get a cover and local guy will do the foam for me). so whatever anyone has, let me know.
I plan on a deep dive into all things electrical int he next few days. i already had to remove and straighten the foot peg brace, it was bent in some weird ways. like they ghost rode it a few times. unreal. somebody had fun trying to kill it. :Clown:
Mark, people beat on the little bikes and many (I have found anyway) were used as a dirt bike at some point lol.
I agree. i imagine me at 12 or so in the 80s would have just trashed it myself .. because i was an idiot. :whistle:
I would have KILLED for one of these at 13 or 14. Instead I had to beat a Honda SL70 to death. RIP.
My YL1 had the same clues it had a dirt bike life. Mud up under the fenders, bent handlebars, bent shifter, side cover scratches. This thing has been down...... many times. :rolleyes:
what isnt shown is how utterly mangled the footpeg assembly was. it took me 2 hours with a torch, vice, big pipes and suche to get them straight again. I mean they were fubared. the 'w' when you look at it from the front was angled back on both dies, pushed vary far IN on the RH side , and both pegs were andgled back like 10-15 degrees. and up like 5. Im shocked it got it straightened out.
Pic dump/update on the YL1E: Its amazing how such a little bike that is relatively straight can have so much shit done wrong to it in the past. lol. after replacing broken wires in the harness, repairing the generator/starter assembly, taking the neutral switch apart, cleaning the contacts, repairing the LH bar switch by making a switch plate from scratch out of brass stock, straightening the bent handle bars, (and they were pretty fucked up.) I finally got it to charge and all the electrical now works as it should. also serviced the steering neck bearings, removed even MORE sae bolts, etc. then, i pulled the baffles and realized a PO hammered in the originals and broke the baffle plate in the pipes. that's right, on both sides. it was at this point i stopped. also, test fitting a temporary seat until i can get stock pan. Also illustrates that most 'barn finds' are rolling pieces of junk that need a LOT of attention. there's exceptions, but usually this kind of stuff is pretty normal to find on bikes of this vintage.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/electrical-initial/yl1-electrical_18.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/electrical-initial/yl1-electrical_01.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/electrical-initial/yl1-electrical_03.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/electrical-initial/yl1-electrical_17.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/electrical-initial/yl1-electrical_20.jpg)
horn switch spring plate.. made a new one
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/electrical-initial/yl1-electrical_13.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/electrical-initial/yl1-electrical_14.jpg)
while i was in there w the bars off:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/electrical-initial/yl1-electrical_08.jpg)
test fit temporary seat:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/electrical-initial/yl1-electrical_06.jpg)
and then getting the charging system to work. brushes cleaned and the commutor was cleaned, all good now:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/electrical-initial/yl1-electrical_19.jpg)
so the ign switch was mangled and no key. bought one off ebay, new, was wrong one of course so a cannibalized it for parts and repaired the old one:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/ig-sw/ign-switch-yl_04.jpg)
'gold' one is correct:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/ig-sw/ign-switch-yl_01.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/ig-sw/ign-switch-yl_06.jpg)
this shows the ball, fiber insulator , then spring positioning.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/ig-sw/ign-switch-yl_05.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/ig-sw/ign-switch-yl_07.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/ig-sw/ign-switch-yl_08.jpg)
stole lock cyl and key out of new one, reused old housing and contact plate.
soldered the leads back on that were ripped/cut off, closed up the switch. tape is over the back to prevent any corrosion, not to hold it together.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/ig-sw/ign-switch-yl_09.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/ig-sw/ign-switch-yl_11.jpg)
+1, theres usually alot more work than expected but when its really done, they run as good as they ever did if not better. If not you, who else would ever grease the head bearings before the bike was discarded:)
I find it nice that the old switchgear is a bit chunkier and it seems easier to make parts for and work on. Then again, modernish stuff isnt usually broken although I've seen a fair amount of kill switches that needed attention especially on things that sat outside.
Mark I should have .050, .075 and 1.00mm piston kits if you find the top end in need of help.
I would have to look but I might have engine spares. 25 years ago I had a bunch of that stuff, some went to scrap when I moved to TN so not sure. If you need something let me know and I'll check my storage.
ooh, thats good news john. top end seems fine, its mechanically quiet but i may hit you up anyway. i'll investigate when i pull the heads to get them vapor blasted. :patriot:
sure, let me know if you find anything.
pipes had 3 broken and/or dislodged baffle plates anf just fucked up silencers. luckily i was able to repair them.
its hard to weld on a pipe when the inside is literally on fire. cranked up the shielding gas and had at it. Not a how bike but you also cant see the repairs when they are on.
product of somebody violently hammering the stock baffles in.
had already straightened the lower one out here, was folded completely over:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/pipes-repair/yl1-pipe-repair_2-rotated.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/pipes-repair/yl1-pipe-repair_1.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/pipes-repair/yl1-pipe-repair_4-rotated.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/pipes-repair/yl1-pipe-repair_5-rotated.jpg)
not super pretty but do not leak and done. had to keep temp low, relatively, to not burn thru.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/pipes-repair/yl1-pipe-repair_6-1-rotated.jpg)
Nice work! :clap: good as new
thanks.
well, functional, at least, as new. :toot:
Keyboard welders scheduled to arrive in 10, 9, 8....
I'd have put 3 holes in it and had to put a patch on it, old, dirty and thin is tricky.
Its stuck together, run it:)
TRUST ME, I CAN WELD BETTER THAN THAT. But welding on chrome, on very thin & infused with 50 years of oil, is a different story. reason i didn't braze was , it flames out even more. reason i didn't tig it was the material is so thin and so dirty it would be a nightmare. only way to properly do it would be to get pipes hot tanked clean, and 1: not worth it and 2: no one around here would do it anyway. But you're right. Im not ashamed of it. Barney has had same repair for over 5 years on one pipe, no ones ever noticed it. :devil: :dawg:
Nice. I couldn't get those inner baffles out for the life of me on mine, never thought of going in the side door. Shined a light in there and all looked ok. Then I sprayed and pressure washed the best I could. Once I got the little ones clean then a nice sound and pulse was coming out. Mine shows 9000 miles and the pistons and bores were still good. The rings were at their limit, so I replaced them. Mine has keystone style rings, they are not square, the top surface is tapered. I noticed these bikes run nice and cool even at full throttle.
i got em out ok. but man they were messed up when i got em out. few more pics i took with camera.
also, vid from today.
Looking real good. I see you have a real throttle on yours. Mine is a goofy thing where the cable runs inside the handlebar and there is a machined slot in the handleber, under the throttle tube, that has a slider that is hooked to the cable and a key sticking up. Then the inside of the throttle tube is a corkscrew. That slider key fits into the corkscrew, so as you twist it, it pulls the cable. Hard to turn and no way to adjust the slack except at the carbs but that doesn't take up the slack from the cable junction where the oil cable hooks to the throttle.
Nice bright headlight! :celebrate: Auxito?
Quote from: SoCal250 on August 13, 2022, 11:03:57 PM
Nice bright headlight! :celebrate: Auxito?
nope.. led though. . but the bulb crosses over to a few more modern quads so, bought this. it actually has what seems to be a good beam pattern
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125394779720
Mark, evidently the YL1 stuff was scrapped in Calif. for the move but I did find several RD125 engines/parts if one ever follows you home and you feel the need, lol.
sweet! lol.. thanks for looking though, its a generous offer and appreicated. :patriot:
I might buy an extra set of cyls, fire up the bridgeport, and reed them. just because, why not? (i know i know).
:gentleman:
new tires should be here thursday. maybe i can eek in an initial test ride this weekend. maybe.
There's no good reason for me to love those tires as much as I do.
did a bunch of stuff to this over the past week. I'll start off with .. the testride went well.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/running-testrides-etc/20220820_124410.jpg)
*note: seat is temporary, need to get stock one sorted.
that being said... the LH cyl is a getting abit noisy so its getting new pistons/rings/wristpin bearings as i need to pull the cyls and paint them anyway. also, the one side is down a bit on compression as well. But, it will do over 50 w me on it as is. so thats pretty good and i really havent wrung it out.
the rear hub was a mess. there was a pipe fitting for a spacer... so i fired up the lathe and made a new one.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rear-hub-sprocket-shocks/rear-hub-and-carrier_02.jpg)
new sprocket, and all new bearings.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rear-hub-sprocket-shocks/rear-hub-and-carrier_06.jpg)
at some point the rear wheel came loose, prob from a slung chain. so the brake linkage was all fucked up. luckily i had the basic parts that were missing and was able to repair the rest:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rear-hub-sprocket-shocks/rear-hub-and-carrier_04.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rear-hub-sprocket-shocks/rear-hub-and-carrier_12-1.jpg)
the shocks worked well, but they were a bit long. dug around int he shock bin, found some shorter tops, but had to lathe down the shoulder 2mm to fit the spring, and tape the hole to 12x1.25 to fit the shaft. while doing this i thought about it and realized... these are nitrogen, i can run them upside down. so mounted them where the shock spring doesnt possibly hit the fender anymore. much better.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rear-hub-sprocket-shocks/rear-shock-mod_01.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rear-hub-sprocket-shocks/rear-shock-mod_03.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rear-hub-sprocket-shocks/rear-shock-mod_4.jpg)
:toot:
:righteous: :righteous:
thanks. :wave:
Took it out to its 1st bike night. the LH cyl i think has a ring or skirt issue, but said f-it, rode it out anyway. did well overall. the headlight decided to quit working, both beams, on way home. hoping its just a loose ground but?
otherwise, success. this weekend i'll rebuild the topend.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/YL1-1ST-BIKE-NIGHT_1.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/YL1-1ST-BIKE-NIGHT_2.jpg)
new tiny pistons and wristpin bearings and rings. check out the 'hap jones' box. :cheerleader:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/yl1-pistons_1.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/yl1-pistons_2.jpg)
next to a cooked rd piston for size comparison:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/yl1-pistons_4.jpg)
So got top-end wrapped up yesterday. cleaning the embedded red clay dust out of the heads was probably the worst of it, had to ultrasonic the heads like 3 times. i considered getting them vapor hones but they would have been way too bright and mad the rest of the bike look like shit so. :dawg:
the rings were the culprit, heres 2 shots.
this is the left cyl. 1st pic are the rings I took out :eek: (yes it ran but was loooow on compression). the bores looked ok and measured fine:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/running-testrides-etc/topend/rings-yl1_2.jpg)
same cylinder with the new rings set in.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/running-testrides-etc/topend/rings-yl1_1.jpg)
new wristpin bearings, thanks to Russ (SoCal250) for the crossover. https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=55.0
bonus, they have an extra roller on there so a more supportive bearing.
(new one to right)
https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/running-testrides-etc/topend/DSCI2574.jpg
heads small enough it fits in the carb dip tank.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/running-testrides-etc/topend/heads-yl1_2.jpg)
and i never do this, but then ultrasonic cleaned with household cleaner, then again with carb cleaner in tank.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/running-testrides-etc/topend/20220827_122303.jpg)
some gun brushes later and some wd40 and:
this was prior to its last shots with brake cleaner.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/running-testrides-etc/topend/heads-yl1_5.jpg)
i -may- have raised the cyl skirt transfer port sleeve at the base a bit :devil: , but after a hit with the brake hone, then ultrasonically cleaned, repainted, heres the jugs and heads.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/running-testrides-etc/topend/20220827_144013.jpg)
new pistons and hand cut base gaskets in:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/running-testrides-etc/topend/DSCI2570.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/running-testrides-etc/topend/DSCI2575.jpg)
fresh stat-o-seals on the injection lines:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/running-testrides-etc/topend/20220827_175019.jpg)
and 3rd start w topend. :celebrate:
Pretty Awesome!
Nice write up. Those little bikes are so cool. Next year you need to bring it to Oklahoma for our Tiddler ride. You would be most welcomed!
Quote from: 1976RD400C on August 11, 2022, 05:59:51 PM
I noticed these bikes run nice and cool even at full throttle.
Looking at the tiny bore and comparing the cooling fin area around it, we can see why this is true. Who needs water cooled?
cast irron cylinder. lol. but yeah it cools really well for sure.
I'll pass on Oklahoma, been there a few times . almost went to OSU actually. But thanks for the invite. YOU should come to the 2 stroke meet at deals gap. Much better riding. :olaf:
Pretty cool! Those pistons make my RD125 look like a big bore :dawg:
and your parts are now bacteria-free! :cheerleader:
Quote from: SoCal250 on August 29, 2022, 01:52:27 PM
and your parts are now bacteria-free! :cheerleader:
:dawg:
keepin it clean. lol. that red NC mud/dirt was a mother.
The old piston will make a pretty cool key chain.
So, the engine seal kit finally arrived and i needed to change the crank seal out of preventative. however, those who have ever done these generator style ones know how much of a BITCH they can be to pull off. they are delicate, hard to find, and the threads always strip out.
long story short, a tiny bit of heat in the hole after re-tapping the threads to 7/16-14 and using a grade 8 bolt got the rotor off. also replaced all 4 brushes, and yes, the old ones were actually working.
also, added the rear fender extender, oem. (angie actually got that for me for some reason)
Few other things, (headlight bulb, new carb top, etc) but its pretty wrapped up mechanically.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/crank-seal-brushes-overhang/DSCI2580.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/crank-seal-brushes-overhang/DSCI2581.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/crank-seal-brushes-overhang/DSCI2582.jpg)
rear awning:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/crank-seal-brushes-overhang/DSCI2584.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/crank-seal-brushes-overhang/DSCI2583.jpg)
also new kickstart and shifter rubber (oem from partzilla)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/crank-seal-brushes-overhang/DSCI2585.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/crank-seal-brushes-overhang/DSCI2586.jpg)
next up is to replace the brake shoes since they are just old. then, pretty sorted aside from seat. :cheerleader:
:patriot: :patriot:
Dig that little rear fender thingy.
Been a while sinc ei updated on this. But ive been going at it pretty good. lot sof little things , like a new throttle, and cables, some other bits here and there including brake shoes, etc.
One that matters, is i tracked down a correct airbox/lid/filter. these things are WEIRD but works well. also, wanted to run turn signals, they were optional. Had to add the back sub harness, and origjnal signals are just unobtanium, so i ordered some generic ones that were at least to scale.
also touched up back of frame/fender. there's more to do but pretty much all cosmetic at this point, everything works and runs great.
airbox as i got it:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/TURNSIGNALS-AND-CLEANUP/airbox_yl1-preclean-2-rotated-e1664917872572.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/TURNSIGNALS-AND-CLEANUP/turnsignal-yl1-rotated.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/TURNSIGNALS-AND-CLEANUP/turnsignals_-1-rotated.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/TURNSIGNALS-AND-CLEANUP/rear-freshen_2.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/TURNSIGNALS-AND-CLEANUP/rear-freshen_1.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/TURNSIGNALS-AND-CLEANUP/rear-freshen_3.jpg)
Righteous :righteous: :righteous:
Looks great!
I've been looking the correct optional turns for my 64 yds3 forever.
nos tailight and straightened the original tail light bracket.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/TURNSIGNALS-AND-CLEANUP/yl1-tailight-new_5.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/TURNSIGNALS-AND-CLEANUP/yl1-tailight-new_3.jpg)
new light was about 10 bucks more than just the lense.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/TURNSIGNALS-AND-CLEANUP/yl1-tailight-new_1.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/TURNSIGNALS-AND-CLEANUP/yl1-tailight-new_6.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/TURNSIGNALS-AND-CLEANUP/yl1-tailight-new_8.jpg)
Oddly, neither stock had a ground wire. the stock one had one that looked added in, and the new one didn't either, so i had to route one through the loom . weird.
That thing is looking real nice. Mine had a ground wire someone added. It looked corny, so I took it off and the taillight seems to be grounding ok through the fender and framework.
thanks. apparently theres supposed to be an external one. the fisch shows it..(#39). but no idea how it supposed to connect. :toot:
Quite the transformation but expected from your great work and attention to detail. :clap: :clap:
thanks Evans! . I'm having fun but also frustrated at the things i'm being picky about on this little turd/gem of a bike.. that probably shouldn't matter. :dawg:
I can say, im really looking forward to getting the seat done though. :haw:
Is this how you're going with the seat? I think that's the oem look. With those tires, it would look sweet. Mine came with a new seat cover. It looks like Ebay has them from overseas.
(https://i.ibb.co/gWL235z/seat.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bvM0PSz)
yup.
have this waiting in a box to be used.
So, took the 100 out for a longer ride, probably did close to 50 miles. it did really well, but im pretty sure its over geared. I can actually hit a higher top speed in 3rd than 4th. lol. (55-57 in 3rd, 50-52 in 4th). But, it didnt miss a beat.
was a beautiful day in SC for it on sat for sure.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/running-testrides-etc/benford-yl1-scaled.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/running-testrides-etc/cotton-yl1.jpg)
:righteous: :righteous:
Mines geared 15/35. It seems to have a big jump in ratio between 3rd and 4th.
Quote from: 1976RD400C on October 24, 2022, 07:08:28 PM
Mines geared 15/35. It seems to have a big jump in ratio between 3rd and 4th.
really? whats your top speed? i think mines 14/38
Quote from: m in sc on October 24, 2022, 11:10:06 PM
Quote from: 1976RD400C on October 24, 2022, 07:08:28 PM
Mines geared 15/35. It seems to have a big jump in ratio between 3rd and 4th.
really? whats your top speed? i think mines 14/38
Speedo says 62 and I can roll back on the throttle a bit and hold 55 to cruise. Next time out I'll check with phone gps. It definitely has 15/35 sprockets.
ah ok. mines indicating what i stated... and was being paced by 2 new modern bikes so im sure its accurate. weird. i'll have to investigate a bit . do appreciate the data point though. I know my old hs1 would do a legit 60
everything ive read this morning (slow day int he office). says 50-52 is normal max speed, which is fine if thats what its supposed to be.
mines like a 14/35 gearing, which is stock on mine. it def wont rev all the ay out in 4th and everything's dead stock, top end is fresh.
the yl1 def has a LOT of online information that conflicts though.
I played with it a bit, reset point gap and i think it just is what it is. thats fine. :toot: :vroom:
on another note...
since apparently no on on the planet had a seat pan I decided to repair mine, i just gave up looking and didnt want to have to buy a whole bike to get one. (for those that saw that parts bike on FB.. :eek: :huh: and it was 4 states away).
the nose had been cut off and the sides hammered in flat. yeah, i know. so i was able to get the side flanges straightened out somehow, and then made the nose from scratch. this was the preliminary fitment. it snot pretty in here, but its .040 mild steel sheet. i plug welded it to the stock pan after getting a rough shape. I had 1 pic and a repro seat cover to go off of.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/seat/seat-pan-preliminary-repair_5.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/seat/seat-pan-preliminary-repair_2.jpg)
the next day i wire wheeled the rest of the pan, and flap wheeled and filled in the holes /gaps int he part i made, smoothed it all out. brought that and the new cover to my local guy to cut soem foam and fit the cover. should finish it off nicely. Im pretty excited about it.
... now we just have to find a rack for it. What a cool bike that thing is.
i think im going to have to make one. they are unobtanium.
What a fierce little thing! And what an awesome job you're doing. Every time I read the updates to this thread, I find myself wandering over to Craigslist in search of old neglected gems.
thanks, its appreciated. It was def a spur of the moment purchase, i wasn't looking for one... actually, MSR (Matt) peer pressured me into it/tempted me. which im notoriously known for to do to all my friends. :gentleman: :huh: :dawg:
I've really, really enjoyed this bike way more than i expected. yesterday i finally got a chain guard for it. I got a used one, there's nos ones on ebay, fairly priced, but.. i'll refinish the old one. it def needs one.
I -hope- to make the DGR next year with this one, probably. :toot:
I expect to see this bike at our next Tiddler run..
in Oklahoma? doubtful there Scott.. doubtful. :whistle:
last night was a rainy one, so i did clean up the pass pegs, pulled apart cleaned w out stripping the zinc plating.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rh-pass-peg-scaled.jpg)
and after the chain guard arrived a few days ago, i finally got around to stripping and painting it & getting it mounted. had to weld on the rear nut on the guard as it was missing.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/chaingaurd-scaled.jpg)
its the same shade of silver as the rear fender section of the frame vs the duller engine paint. thought it looked better that way,
That's looking real real good. I need a chain guard for mine but only find the rotted one and the ones from Thailand on Ebay.
(https://i.ibb.co/YZgm2Qn/yl1ca.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dgZFBMC)
thanks. man yours looks good.
the one i got was the one from mr monkeyclaw. i figured it was worth a shot.. was way better than i expected it would be.
i paid 40 ish.
slight update: Decided to get some shock covers for the rear, long story, but had t use 2 different sets, these are for girling shocks for nortons/bsa's. not 'correct' but i dig them, knocks back the 'too modern' look of the shocks i put on. I cant deal w the stock shocks, they are just miserable IMHO
seat is at the upholstery guy being done as we speak, ready by end of week.
next thing is a retrofit of a dyna-s electronic ignition. then, dare i say, im finished.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/shocks/yl1e-shocks-covers_4.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/shocks/yl1e-shocks-covers_2.jpg)
roughing in of the seat pan repair... i wire wheeled and smoothed all this out, finished the welding and painted it before sending it out. yes, the front had been cut off.
and while the seat is being finished (he didnt like the ebay cover i gave him to use so is making one from scratch), i went ahead and fit the knockoff dyna-s onto the motor. since this thing lives at sky-high rpms, figured it was worth it.
I did NOT want to make it a non-reversible mod, so i had to get creative. modified the ignition trigger, bored it out a hair, milled the non magnet side flat (to accomodate a set screw), and hand cut a pickup plate. I wanted to keep the elec starting as well.
modified magnet trigger:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/elec-ign-etc/yl1e-elec-ign_01-rotated.jpg)
mounted, then trued on the lathe since this was going to have the 'low' spot on the magnet side, i had to turn it a bit assembled.
I do know i could have used a sunken set screw to mount it, but wanted an externally accessible screw i used some case sealant in the gap as some 'insurance' it would stay put. I did not mod the points cam, so this can be taken off , wire wheeled and be used for points.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/elec-ign-etc/yl1e-elec-ign_05-rotated-e1670869241906.jpg)
drawn template for pickup mount to bolt on. I have some being laser cut but i got impatient and made one by hand.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/elec-ign-etc/yl1e-elec-ign_09-rotated.jpg)
bare points plate:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/elec-ign-etc/yl1e-elec-ign_02-rotated-e1670869211960.jpg)
mounted:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/elec-ign-etc/yl1e-elec-ign_17.jpg)
mounted with temp wiring:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/elec-ign-etc/yl1e-elec-ign_20.jpg)
running. advance unit is noisy w cover off.
Sounds great :patriot: :patriot:
thank you. hopefully will be at gap in may to cause my own mini traffic jams. :toot: :vroom: :dawg:
nothing major, but got my laser cut versions of the ign plates (only needed one) and an nos oil pump cover.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/oil-pump-cover.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/elec-ign-etc/cut-ign-plate-rotated.jpg)
got my seat back for the little YL1E today, was hand made cover/foam and is absolutely accurate to original . Bill did a fantastic job as usual. used a correct reproduction cover , but with thin material, as a guide. the stenciling on th eback was sone with vinyl dye and a die cut template.
Dare is say its done for now. :celebrate:
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/seat/yl1e-seat-new_5.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/seat/yl1e-seat-new_8.jpg)
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/seat/yl1e-seat-new_4.jpg)
i made the pan repair so it didnt rest dead on the tank on purpose, but i am sure it will settle onto it a bit over time.
(https://www.2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/seat/yl1e-seat-new_2.jpg)
Dressed up looking spiffy!
:clap: Looking sharp!
You're making me want to install an electronic ignition in one of my RD125s. It would be a little easier as there's no governor to deal with. Hmm...
would be easy. thats the advance unit for the starting feature, the regular YL1's dont have them, just the 'e' models. so, like 1 year production. thats why i had to mod it. :devil: :dawg:
so, 4th was super tall on this, could actually hit a higher speed in 3rd than 4th. even though the gearing was stock, decided to go up 2t on the rear sprocket, was def worthwhile doing. can hit 55 or so in 4th now and actually maintain speed up a hill w out shifting to 3rd and screaming it. small bike victories. saw 64 on a slight downhill :eek: on the testride. also.. the sprocket carrier nut was chewed up pretty good. turns out a stock rd350 front sprocket nut is the same thread but larger hex... had to relieve the back side a bit to clear the chain adjuster but much better. :bacon:
Saw 64 on a slight downhill! Holding on for dear life! :omg:
so, rode it in yesterday, and its just not making the power up high i think it should... albeit it does run well.
i don't get it, everything is dialed in like it should, dead stock by the book except the dyna ignition.
Im going to throw in a new set of coils since i still have the originals in there, maybe they are just not up to the task at high rpm. Not missing, smooth as glass but? i checked the gps, it was a max of 52 mph and not that i need to go faster, but its supposed to go a bit faster. slightly frustrating. it has a fresh topend, cleaned pipes, baffles, stock filter and airbox, jetting, and the plugs look good. and im not -that- fat. lol.
Are you hearing a good popping sound from the exhaust, like it is nice and clear? Mine had a few bits of carbon break loose and plug those tiny little slit exit holes in the baffle.
yes, they sound good. i cleaned the baffles a few mos ago, but do plan on looking at them again incase some shit boke loose.
for those interested, update:
Thurs night i did swap the coils to new ones, got some emgo round bodies that people used to use on rds a lot, direct stock fit on this. that seemed to help the midrange a bit.
yesterday, i checked fuel flow, seemed ok but the tank vent seemed a bit.. lazy to breathe, so cleaned it, also looked at petcock, all seems to be ok. of course, i caused a leak so had to address that with a new wavy washer.
so pulled baffles today, there was 'some' shit that had broken loose, but not enough to clog them. i did open up the spark arrestor some, should allow any carbon to get thru now. vacuumed out the pipes with the shop vac, they are super clean inside now.
checked everything, went out and rode it, hit a gps 56 mph, speedo was reading 63 or so. lol. might have been some GPS lag but its running perfect, just slow, so i guess it is what it is. The up 2 teeth on the back sprocket didn't seem to hurt top speed at all, or help it, but it def helped midrange and 4th gear climbing whereas before 4th would just bog down.
I mean, its a 56 year old 100 cc twin... I'll live with it being a snail. but man its fun.
quick ride video.
camera is right over the left pipe mounted off the plate, so its a bit... loud. :dawg:
top
indicated speed on this run was about 58-59.which means i hit 53-55 probably.
Sounds fun! And you're right, you're not "that" fat. :whistle:
LOL. i miss the 180 lbs days but, well, that was a LOOOONG time ago. :toot: :vroom:
tracked down a period rack for this thing, it actually crosses over to a 'yj2 campus 60' as well, so i looked on ebay and ONE came up . chrome was garbage but, i bought it any way.
going to get it powder coated over the winter i think, and i had to relocate the turn signals (this is actually where i have seen a few factory signals mounted).
(https://2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rack/yl1-rack_3.jpg)
(https://2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rack/yl1-rack_4.jpg)
(https://2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rack/yl1-rack_8.jpg)
(https://2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rack/yl1-rack_2.jpg)
donut hauling: enabled. :whoop:
:righteous: :righteous:
Nice, ready for in-town errand duty! :thumbs: I use my RD125 rack all the time!
broke it in right sunday morning :dawg:
(https://2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rack/370273048_7119213221440343_2828292397313595477_n.jpg)
(https://2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rack/369987612_7119213261440339_2799843791225161662_n.jpg)
(https://2strokeworld.net/wp-content/uploads/70-yl1/rack/369975174_7119213021440363_7624483556147513314_n.jpg)
This is The Way.
Excellent
spare set of cyls back from the shop being bored to freshen up the top end .. one on it has a slight tick that might be? piston slap. 38.5mm bore of fury.
I had a hell of a time finding a shop that could go under 40mm.
Sweet
Needs Nitrous :bacon: :bacon:
Quote from: m in sc on April 24, 2024, 04:19:00 PMspare set of cyls back from the shop being bored to freshen up the top end .. one on it has a slight tick that might be? piston slap. 38.5mm bore of fury.
I had a hell of a time finding a shop that could go under 40mm.
More POWAH! :olaf:
Back when I worked at a machine shop in the 70's we did those tiny ones on the Sunnen power hone. It could do .010" no problem petty quickly.
yeah, its hard to find around here now, anyone that can do it that small. The local shop that does automotive was going to do it with connecting rod hone machine they have, but got backed up and it sat there for 6 mos, which, i get. so i sent it elsewhere.
The shop that did do it was way the fuck out of line price wise though, I sent it thru my local guy, and it was so high he refused to charge me any markup. to the point, he also wont use them anymore (as he also was rebuilding heads for him as well). he got invoiced $300 to bore those. thats insane. I would have been 'ok' w 100 a hole my cost, due to adding a middle man, but ffs.