Bearing Spin?

[IR8D8R]

I used green in a mechanical assembly job many years ago to fix precision bearings onto shafts for a commutator block. This stuff will not set up properly unless it is under pressure. Any over-application outside a tight-fit joint will stay liquid for hours or days. The amount required to cement is almost invisible. You can't have enough to squeeze out of the joint or it will end up in the bearing. Nearly impossible to get it out of a small bearing once it's in.

It doesn't fill gaps very well either and when it does it isn't as strong as it is under a press-fit.

Looking at this application I would say that it probably would be good enough on one side of the case only and applied with a swab to the center of the case journal. You don't need a proud bead as long as there is a good match between surfaces. Oil free everywhere and I might buff the outside of the bearing with scotch brite to break any glaze.

If the application is done correctly you need a torch to get it apart without damaging things. Especially on threaded joints. Probably have to put the case into an oven at about 500 degrees if you cemented the whole bearing.

IR8D8R

[m in sc]

^ correct. ive used it a few times, the stuff is ridiculous but behaves exactly as described.


Sometimes, its hard to keep stuff from spinning.   

[retaRD]

There are different formulas, one is press fit, one is slip fit.

[SUPERTUNE]

I used green in a mechanical assembly job many years ago to fix precision bearings onto shafts for a commutator block. This stuff will not set up properly unless it is under pressure. Any over-application outside a tight-fit joint will stay liquid for hours or days. The amount required to cement is almost invisible. You can't have enough to squeeze out of the joint or it will end up in the bearing. Nearly impossible to get it out of a small bearing once it's in.

It doesn't fill gaps very well either and when it does it isn't as strong as it is under a press-fit.

Looking at this application I would say that it probably would be good enough on one side of the case only and applied with a swab to the center of the case journal. You don't need a proud bead as long as there is a good match between surfaces. Oil free everywhere and I might buff the outside of the bearing with scotch brite to break any glaze.

If the application is done correctly you need a torch to get it apart without damaging things. Especially on threaded joints. Probably have to put the case into an oven at about 500 degrees if you cemented the whole bearing.
IR8D8R

When dealing with pressed bearings on shafts for pressed fit repair that have spun and worn really bad to the point there's gaps and slop in the bearing race or housing and not even close, Use Loctite Quickmetal 660 press fit repair.
I have used it for at least 20 years with really good results.
There is a few Youtube videos too.
Chuck