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Thanks. That is how I've always done static timing. I use a light with a battery in it and the light goes out when the points open. Never had the issue where the right side goes to ground when the left points are closed. Gonna put everything back together and see if I can get both sides to spark

Thanks for the link. Really good instruction. I've never set the points with the ignition on. I've always just used a continuity tester or a meter.  With the 12 volt bulb with the 2 leads, one clips on the points terminal, where do you connect the other lead?
Thank you.

Reviving this old post.
I thought i had this fixed, but i cant seem to set the point timing on either side without disconnecting a coil wire or propping open the opposite side points. When one side is closed, the other side goes to ground through the coil, the ballast resistor, and the opposite side points. If i unplug either coil wire or prop open the opposite side breaker point, it works as normal (test light goes out when points open). When i put a meter on the red wires coming out of the ballast resistor, i have continuity. Is this normal? Never had this problem before.

You could fabricate an adapter plate to fit a different petcock.

I tried flipping the condenser. Same thing. Then I switched it back the way it was and it ran on the right clyinder and the Left was arcing. Complete opposite of what I had. Not sure what's going on here. Maybe I'll take Czakky's advice and try throwing the old. condenser back on.

I swapped the points and I got a good spark on the right side. So now I have new points  and condenser installed, timing set at 2mm BTDC and new plugs. Spark still noticeably weak on right side. Started it and it runs like shit on the right cylinder. I noticed the right side points are arcing a lot ( not at all on the left). Do I have a grounding issue? I tested the coils and they both show the same resistance and really close to the specification. When I swapped the leads, the right coils produced a good spark so I think the coils are ok.
Killin me.

I actually bought new points, but the pivot pin is much smaller than the hole on the adjustment plate so i didn't install them. Guess i'll find some NOS ones.

[it won't run on the right cylinder]

Besides having to block open the opposite set of points to get the test light to go out on the side i'm trying to set
(having the same problem as Forexer and NEVER had this problem with this bike), it won't run on the right cylinder.

I had the same exact problem when I did my static timing on my 77RD.

Here's a video I found on youtube showing the issue 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pq3bMRn2xyU

What I ended up doing was disconnecting both point leads and the condenser wires and then and only then could I get it to static time properly.

Good Luck!

I have very weak spark on the right side (new Iridium plugs). I swapped the orange and grey leads going to the coils and the right coil produced a strong spark and the left coil was weak  so I'm assuming i can eliminate the coil as the problem. The condenser is new and the points seem to be in great shape. The reason i was dicking around with it in the first place was because it ran on one cylinder one morning when i was going to ride to work. That night i pulled the plugs, checked for spark (ok) and took it for an 8 mile ride. It ran fine. Next time i tried to run it, it was back to one cylinder. So here I am. Electrical shit makes my brain hurt.
Any thoughts on my next step?

Timing light seems like sounds advice. When I removed the condenser, the right side wire just fell off and there were several cracks in the insulation. I ordered a new one and some sudco points from a place in Ohio. Nearly 2 weeks to get to eastern PA.
I could have walked there and picked them up faster. 

So i just kept disconnecting wires till i got to the Kill switch. When i turned the kill switch to "off" it worked like it should - test light on when points are closed, goes off when they open. Yeah, I'm getting a little older, and short term memory is probably not what it used to be, but i don't ever remember having to have the kill switch in the off position to set timing before.
Derp.

I removed the condenser completely. I pulled one of the points off and checked it in my hand to make sure the insulating washers weren't the problem. It is both sets of points. Never seen this before. Normally, hook clip my light  to the little bolt clamping the lead to the points and when i open them, the light goes off. 

Good Video. I'm just trying to check static timing . I am apparently shorting out somewhere. I should not have continuity with the points open but i do. I'm guessing my problem is under the gas tank as i lifted it up and pulled it back some. Draining the gas now so i can pull the tank and take a look. Absolutely hate the cross-over hose set up 

Trying to set timing today on my 78 RD400. When i hook up my test light to either side the light stays on when i open the points. I did unfasten the gas tank and lift it a little and slid it back to make it easier to get the dial indicator in. The only way i can get the light to go out is by disconnecting the lead from the points. Tried a multimeter as well same thing. Any thoughts?

She's a beauty!

Nice looking bike.
I once reversed the polarity when  connecting my battery and the rectifier was toast.
As Chuck mentioned, could be the battery.  I had one die suddenly in my SV but it still read 12.7V with no load. Just shorted out or whatever.