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Need some help restoring an RD400 Daytona frame. Previous owner had removed the foot peg mounts to add their own home made rear sets. I am now trying to replace those studs to install footpegs. I ground out the old remains of the studs and machined new ones. Question is, how far do they stick out of the frame? If anyone has a frame, I need the measurement from the frame to the end of the stud.
Thanks!

Had the same problems with my T500 only it was 3rd and 4th gear. Split the cases and noticed pitting on the offending gears. Picked up another complete transmission set on Ebay. No pitting on any of the gears. Swapped and noise gone. Lately had the same problem with 6th gear on a Suzuki 650 V Strom. Common issue on that bike I found out later.  Must be a problem with gear manufacturing at Suzuki.

Race Tech responded with the info I needed. Many thanks! These were obviously never set up by the previous owner, just dropped in and run. They are set up for the Daytona correctly now. Just need to finish the rest of the bike now.

OK. Have the damping rods switched. Modified the ones to use the emulators by drilling the damping rod holes correctly. The directions refer to a DVS set up. Being as I am not the original purchaser, I do not have this info. It would appears these valves were never set up. They have a silver spring with no paint mark I can see and were adjusted one turn in. Enough to hold the assembly together it seems. Only one bleed hole. I emailed Race Tech Support to see if I could get the DVS info. Haven't heard back. Maybe someone that has set these up can offer some advise.

Thanks for the info. Looks like I will need to modify the stock damper rods for the emulators and move the modified dampers to the spare set. Then a comparison will be in order. I'm rather slow with my projects, but will get there eventually.

OK, here is the second part to the fork rebuild. When I dismantled a second set of RD400F forks, I found they had Gold Valve emulators installed. The damper rods also had been modified. The 2 top holes and one of the bottom holes had been filled. Seems to me I have seen this done to older Yamaha dirt bike forks in the past. May be a common mod to old Yamaha forks or something done when adding the emulators? I have never used emulators before.
Also noticed one set of forks (stock looking) had long progressive looking springs with no spacer. Only required about 10mm of compression to install caps. Other set (modified) had shorter springs with long, about 5" spacer. Required about 2" of compression to install caps. Also had Goki air caps.

I am rebuilding a set of forks for my latest RD Daytona project. Dismantled and cleaned everything. Installed new fork tubes. After reassembly, noticed one leg would stick in the compressed position. Other leg fine, no sticking. Switched back to the old fork tube, same thing but not as bad. Noticed small ridge on bottoming cone as if it were hitting a sharp edge. Sanded it off and tried again. Same thing. Have another set of the same forks, so I tried them. Same thing. One side sticking other side ok. If I remember correctly it was the right side. Strange, 2 sets of forks, 3 sets of tubes, all do the same thing on one side. Both sets of forks have the same nick in the bottoming cone. Is there a known problem with these forks or is this a strange coincidence? When I took apart the spare set, I noticed they had been modified. I will ask about that on another post.

Thanks all fort the response. Good to know there is a family of knowledge.

Found this on a Japanese site. Advertised as Calfab for KZ1000. Hmmm? Maybe both Calfab? Different type design? The top one was actually mounted to a Daytona. Had an early H1 gas tank mounted too. No telling on the bottom one.

I have 2 aluminum swing arms that are supposed to be for a RD400 Daytona. I'm trying to identify what brand they are. Pretty sure the top one is DG. Not sure about the other.