Fresh start, fresh problems

[~JM~]

I have often made "Dip Tanks" out of a plastic 5-gallon paint can. I use low odor mineral spirits & generic Dexron type ATF. Usually 1 qt. ATF added to 1 gal. mineral spirits. Cleans fairly well & the parts have a bit of lube to protect them after the mineral spirits evaporates.

[Striker1423]

The parts have finally shown up and I've been scrubbing the crap out of the case halves to make them as clean as I can get. Then I have the carbs to take apart and convert. So, quite a bit of work left to do, but I'm close to putting the cases back together.

[Striker1423]

Well it's back together and I'm chasing after an air leak near the carbs. I'm headed to bed, but maybe I can take a better look at it tomorrow.

[SUPERTUNE]

I worked a late night on a RD350 on premix one time and forgot to plug the oil injection holes!!
Big air leak...
I use heavy grease on the reed gaskets and use 1211 3Bond silicone to glue the manifold on the reed cage, I never trust the manifolds to seal when dry, some use another set of gaskets there...
Chuck

[Striker1423]

Chuck,

I used the Permatex Motoseal before I took the motor back apart and it seemed to work fine. But was gummy. So, I left it off this time. I just ordered some 1211 off Amazon. Should be here tomorrow.

On another note,  I can kinda see why John has these manifolds on sale. They are very pliable and dont screw down very well. The corners bend in and the cap screws just wont tighten well. I thought about buying a small 1/8" sheet of  aluminum and cutting out two pieces of square covers that would fit over the manifolds before I screw them down. Kinda like a big washer. There was something similar on the old Kawasaki G3 I had that covered up the carburetor side of the case. The cable ran through a large chunk of rubber that sealed off the intake. Strange design sideways carb and all, but it worked.

This a decent idea or should I just buy another set of manifolds? Banshee ones or something.

[m in sc]

i havent had an issue with them, they have the aluminum in there int he flange..... i mean, only supposed to be like 7-8 ft/lbs. i always use a lockwasher under them. 

[Striker1423]

So mine tighten up on 3 corners but the last corner has no support inside it. Kinda like the aluminum had the corner cut off or something. I would have to check with my small needle torque wrench, but the thing wont tighten. Maybe a thicker washer is worth a shot.

[m in sc]

... sure the threads in the cyl are ok? (just spitballing here)

[Fffrank]

I worked a late night on a RD350 on premix one time and forgot to plug the oil injection holes!!
Big air leak...

Sorry to hi-jack but what do you close off the oil injection holes with?

[Striker1423]

Frank,

Whatever works. Some people glue them shut. A lot of people simply glue the injection nozzles shut and leave them in so they dont ruin the carbs for future injection use.

Mark, to clarify the bolts tighten OK in the cylinder, just the manifold on that corner folds over like it's made of rubber only with No support inside it. 

[m in sc]

WEIRD. MUST BE A DEFECTIVE ONE THEN.  sorry caps.

as far as plugging holes, ive used an m4 tap and stuck a screw in there but its not reversible. 

[SUPERTUNE]

I use the OEM Banshee 31K manifolds, at $64 a set for Yamaha quality i'ts a no brainer for me...
To plug RD oil injection holes in the carbs, use a 6-32 tap and about 3/8 length philips screw with some Yamabond.
If you do this you can go back to the stock oil nipple with some red loctite and no issues.
Chuck

[m in sc]

^ nice. thats a .138" dia. way better than my suggestion.  Noted. 

[Striker1423]

Well I ordered the banshee manifolds, crossover tube and clips from the local yamaha shop. Was a bit more than I anticipated. But, hopefully that helps. The threebond 1211 should be here today.

Hoping this solves the issues. But will I need to cut off the reed stuffer on the back of them? Hiw does that effect the reeds working?

[SUPERTUNE]

Yes, will need to cut off the stuffer on the back of the manifolds. I use a new razer blade then grind the rest flush with a sanding roll on my porting grinder.
I also port the reed cages to match the Banshee manifold too while I'm in there.
No stuffer makes better mid to top end power with a slight loss of very low throttle. If using the YZ125 fiberglass reeds that makes it almost a even trade out. Stock metal reeds are a bit stiffer than the YZ modern reeds.
Chuck