No wonder the exhaust leaks

[Striker1423]

GT750 left side exhaust opening.

Really bad casting flaw. Don't know what else would cause that. Gonna goop the shit outta the new gasket and smash it in there as tight as I can. Maybe it'll work...prolly not.

[teazer]

Looks like someone used caustic soda to remove carbon and it ate the casting. 

You could try a high temperature epoxy but if it was on the bench you could machine it say 6mm deeper and make a 6mm thick "spacer" to replace the missing metal.

It might also be possible to clean out the mess and have it welded up and machined back to stock dimensions.

Both of those require barrel removal which can be onerous.  And if the barrels have to come off, then they may as well be bored and ported and.......  It never ends..

[Striker1423]

So basically goop it up and sell it.

I'm getting another headache.

[pidjones]

Looks to me like about six crushed copper gaskets were left in it.

[85RZwade]

That shit'll buff out 

[Striker1423]

It's been properly gooped. No leaks so far.

Runs, rides and has all gears. All gauges seem to work. Temp gauge goes for a wild shake now and again lol. Gotta look into how to tape that down. Carb sync to follow. Clutch lash noise is the next issue. It's real bad.

[teazer]

That's odd.  With helical primary drive gears there should be little noise from that side even if the wrong gear sets had been fitted for that set of crankcases (they were selective assembled at the factory but the difference is small).

At low idle speed they often sound like the kickstarter ratchet is touching and makes a racket but that's usually carbs out of synch or one lazy cylinder making the rocking couple worse than usual.  Most Gt750s shake a bit at low revs some as high as 1,800 revs but most around 1,200-1,500.

If it's all all revs, check where the sound is coming from. It might be a loose electric start gear on the crank or really badly worn clutch shock absorber springs.

[Striker1423]

It sounds like its coming from the left side. I had attempted to take the starter out to verify it was ok, but didn't realize you had to remove the water pipe stanchion to get the starter past. So, I gave up, slid the starter back into its slot and torqued it all back down.

I know from the Suzuki forum these bikes really need a good carb sync, so I may be ordering a set of mercury sticks. It does the same sporadic noise like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_uajrfaOy4

It appears the consensus there is something to do with the clutch assembly? Starter clutch and I'd be removing the points etc and I'm really trying to not even touch that mess.

[teazer]

The starter motor can stay in place unless it absolutely has to come out.  The drive train is all accessible from under that large left cover.

You can leave the points and the short points drive shaft in the left cover and remove the whole cover with all that mess of parts as one assembly.  The points shaft is keyed to the crank through a pin and slot.  Pin is on the starter clutch and slot is in the points drive shaft.

That will give you access to the starter clutch.  I have had one come loose and have seen many sheared or distorted woodruff keys.

That link is probably the worst idle I have heard on a GT750 but they all do that to some degree.  Some sound like one cylinder isn't firing consistently (the Phat Trakka did that) and others shake like you cannot believe ( my Dunstall did that) and others are smooth as a baby's bum (are we allowed to say things like that anymore?).  I had two that were fine after some careful carb synch work and two that I could tame a lot but never eliminate, so just blip the throttle and let her rip.

I have checked timing and jetting and crank phasing and some just shake more than others but are fine above say 2,000 revs.

Carb synch certainly helps but doesn't always fix the problem.

[Striker1423]

Right mine sounds like the one in the video pretty consistently. However, it does go away with throttle applied. So, would it behoove me to take the side cover off and at least have a look?

[m in sc]

I suspected clutch backlash. The grom w the LT250R moor sounds like its going to grenade at cold idle. 

[teazer]

If it's from the right side it may be backlash especially in the cush springs in the back of the basket and will benefit from synching carbs and getting ignition timing spot on on all three pots.

If it's from the left side, I would buy a spare left side gasket and 2L of trans oil and pull the left side cover off whole as an assembly just to check. Left side gear train is straight cut but light load and not a lot of lash.  Clutch gears should have very little lash but the cush drive might have some.

Right side cover is more of a PIA to remove because of the inner and outer covers and the clutch pull mechanism.  Don't be tempted to hold the pull shaft with vice grips as you undo the two nuts. the shaft end that's hanging out and tempting you to grab it is where the gearbox oil feed seal sits.

[Striker1423]

I guess I can just take the left side cover off. Will acquire the gasket and fresh oil. Think I'll run Belray as I do on the RD. Don't know what's in it now.

I ordered the petcock rebuild kit from HVC and started acquiring fork rebuild parts. Big part will be the fork tubes themselves. Then tires, tubes, rim strips, and lastly, chain and sprockets. I hear folks switch to 520 x-ring chains, but that they have to run a couple sprocket spacers?