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I thought it was postponed to allow for increased security   

Any welding should be completed before any machine work.  I don't think polishing would be an issue.

I had a great exchange with the owner, he owned and raced some very cool bikes at the top level of the AMA.  The bike was the real deal and actually sold for a very fair price (I think it could have brought more).

I have cut multiple Daytona heads, 250 and 400,  I cut them so the full fin remains on one side.  Then I cut a fin profile and weld it into the other side for matching heat dissipation. I made a cardboard template of the fin profile to get the shape correct. Daytona combustion chambers have way to much squish gap, once they are cut down they work well. 

I dont have a set of 350 cylinders to check, I know there is a difference between a standard 400 and a Daytona, the Daytona's studs are angled and further apart.  I also have a set of 250 cylinders but they are 1980 250G's from Australia, they did not have the exhaust butterfly and the flat casting, they should be the same as the 2R8's, I think I may have a set of the 2R8's I will check them to if I do.

Beautiful parts. 

The reputation of the Namura brand is they are weak and poor quality.  Quite a few years ago I remember reports of the skirts failing.  I have had great service out of the  Vertex brand in my race bike.  I have never had one failure in spite of the abuse

I wondered the same, its a push-pull assembly, it makes sense, and it could turn the rebound damping adjuster it is on the end of the shock at the top mount.

 

opps meant to edit

Its a beautiful and rare bike.  The dates and the description do not fully make sense, he says it has a K model shock (same as the H/J) but a K was an 83 model.  Not going to split hairs, but it was not raced in 80-81 with a K shock.

It has the right parts all over it, the 3G3 6 transfer cylinder, the factory 350G crossover pipes, wide rims, trick brakes, gorgeous Spondon aluminum frame.  I am curious if the primary gear set was upgraded to the 350 sets (if not it will break gears) and if the lectrons are 38mm. I have two sets of nos Yamaha pistons and 4 sets of rings for one.  A crank rebuild, new seals, pressure check on the shock, and hit the track for a wild fun ride... that bike is light as crap and has about 80 HP.

Id love to own it but I think it will go for 4 or 5 times the current bid (may get shipped to the UK or Europe) and its that $ is to fat for my wallet right now.
I am building a 1984 250L, just got that last few parts purchased in Japan.  If Ahrma would change the reed valve rule I would run the reeded 320cc motor I have in the 350 class.

I heard you could read the Budwiser label on some of them.... 

A few years ago I was was looking for some 7305 roller bearings for a TZ crank. $200 CDN from Yamaha... IF they have stock. They didn't
Some of the banshee sites sell that bearing as an "up grade" (it's not) and I found a site in the south west states that was advertising a SKF 7305N... so I called SKF Canada to get some, and was told SKF doesn't do that bearing.
HUH?? There is picture on this guy's website of a SKF 7305N, so I sent a link of the picture to the guy at SKF.
The guy at SKF looked into it and IF they made that bearing it would be made in their plant in Northern Italy, and he checked the computer files that went back to 1986 or '87 and that plant hasn't made any 7305N bearings.

I am completely shocked, I would never has guessed that a Chinese company would pirate the SKF logo and stamp it on their bearings and ship them in branded SKF boxes.

I know chuck quenzler had good luck getting bearings from vxb, and if memory serves correct he could get them w the clip groove, but we had that conversation maybe 10? yrs ago. I know he got some for me when i did my crank (since he had them on hand) just .02

https://www.vxb.com/

Thanks for the heads up I avoid cheap Chinese bearings......... I will check with them.  on a couple of my race motors and the wheels I am going to try out the ceramic bearings (BUT DAMN ARE THEY PROUD OF THEM!!!!)

The bearing side is beyond my scope,  although if I can develop a source I may carry/stock the correct bearings for RD/TZ cranks (once I get setup)

Tony Doukos has the ability to do some machining on bearings but the best source is worldwide Bearings, they can source and build specific bearings.  They have the knowledge and the capability to provide specialized bearings and have the number off the bearing you need, the Yamaha / Suzuki / Honda part number will not get them what they need.

Doukos racing / Banshee superstore has everything needed for RZ350/Banshee crank's and transmission including trick ceramic bearing kits.  he also provides custom-configured crankshafts. or custom application and racing RZ/Banshee cranks Tony has great options and builds 100% quality racing and stock cranks. He also has offset sprockets and bearing supports for wide-wheel applications. 

www.bansheesuperstore.com




I am interested in building RD and TZ cranks, and any other cranks that are within my scope (2-stroke and 4-stroke singles, etc.).  I have all the tools and experience. I have been doing it for 45 years.  just need to get my stuff set up again.  I have special fixtures and jigs I built to minimize stress on the disassembly and rebuild / trueing (I built the jigs - fixtures Lyn Garland used).  I use ground shim blocks to set the individual crank widths dead on spec with no back and forth. I then assemble the two halves after they are trued to spec. this greatly reduces the stress put on the pins and pin holes during the building process.  I can also rebuild a single side when there is a seizure (if someone is on a tight budget).

Normally a crank comes out of the fixture within the factory spec of .002" runout and dead on widths, I can normally true to a runout of .0003 or less.   I can also weld the crank and rebuild previously welded cranks. If I see a low-pressure press fit indicating a crank is at the end of its life I can weld it so it to keep it stable.

I do not currently have a phasing fixture that would let me re-build an RZ crank center section, they are not keyed in the center like RD's/ TZ's.  Also the cost of a new hotrods RZ/Banshee crank makes rebuilding more costly than just buying a 100% brand new crank. 


My jigs are not structured to do a 4-cylinder crank but I have rebuilt a Skitsu 500cc Yamaha triple, it had a Hockle crank, it came out 0/0/0.  I have not done a Kawasaki triple.