Hi
Yeah so, having serious issues with getting the vintage smoke rear set /shifter arm to work proper. It does not work actually
So My question is, maybe getting another shifter arm,
Does anyone know how many tooth a rd400 shifter arm has? That goes on the shifter axle
30 tooth? 🤔
How can it not work? What is it not doing?
Properly a combination of things. I think i have it adjusted as good as it gets, with the arm etc
But still, so Diffixult to shift and it tends to lossen up when i have had it working for a bit.
Will try to work more on it tomorrow, just havet had much luck with it so far.
Maybe some Knew Which things to do/ adjust with this set..
Post a pic of how it's set.
Quote from: RDFL on August 08, 2020, 04:26:50 PM
Post a pic of how it's set.
Yes........post a pic.
Yambits does made a replica but I think more info is needed here.
What component comes loose?
Have you contacted Nic for advice?
Pictures would help.
Hi guys
Sorry for not being able to formulate 100 procent, my english is a bit rusty.
I have np prier experince with gears, so might just be a rookie but maybe i figured it out.
Not sure, havent ridden yet after this setup iam Trying now.
As it sits now, in neutral.
Problem on last ride, the shifter arm came lose on the gear axle? Allthough it was on there tight
And the shifter arm was touching the foot peg.
Looks better as it sits now, but have yet gone for a test ride
The arm need to be CLOSE TO PERPENDICULAR to the stay!
I dont have it licensed but just took it for a Very short ride down the street
It shifts, so far so good.
Need to go ride it proper to really test but thanks guys, i just need to fiddle a bit more with the lever and the whole mecanism 👍
And one more thing. I think the splined shifter arm could benefit from being 10-20 mm lenger, to achieve closer to stock leverage/ feel. This in addition to it being set up perpendicular to the linkage stay.
Yes true. But this require aluminium welding and a billet piece of aluminium, i dont have either 😁
But maybe in the future
As stated, the two arms need to be parallel. Here is a pic of another brand, but you can see a more correct setup...
(https://i.ibb.co/WBBH29N/36-F52057-59-F7-471-E-B2-E7-457-C587-D490-C.jpg)
Yes so i tried to adjust further
Looks like this now, allthough not been on testride with this yet.
That should work better.
Quote from: Jspooner on August 09, 2020, 12:18:36 PM
That should work better.
Definitely. But still stiffer shifting than stock. If pedal lever is 50 mm c-c, the arm should be 60-65 mm.
The way you have the linkage rod attached diagonally from inside the foot shift lever to outside the selector arm makes it stiffer to shift.
On the 400 you should be able to install the linkage on the inside of both. On the 350 there isn't enough clearance and the linkage rod needs to go on the outside of both. Then it gets in the way. The photos on the manufacturer's website show only the 400- mounted inside.
These shifters are a little stiff at first but they do loosen up. I have one on my RD350.
Chuck suggested drilling and tapping a second hole for the linkage on the shift lever closer to the pivot point to shorten the throw. I have not tried this.
I will probably replace this rearset in the future. I am not in love with how it shifts. The design is elegant looking but function isn't great.
I have other problems:
1) The mounting threads on the footpegs are integrally machined rather than a replaceable bolt. The material is very soft steel. If you forget to fold the kick-start side peg and kick hard it will strip the threads off the steel when the kicker hits.
2) Also the ball-spring mechanism that holds the pegs folded down is weak and the peg folds up too easily. I am constantly folding them back down while riding.
IR8D8R