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if he hadn't crashed at the t.t. in 1978 who knows what he could have gone on to win? top man and top racer 
cheers, gil.

not much of a problem there me old flower, because i'm using gt550 barrels and standard ts185 pistons. the only problem being the piston crown height. the 550 pistons are 23mm and the ts pistons are 24.5mm. but that's hardly difficult to remedy. i've made alsorts of thicknesses for base plates on the gt250's i've built, including a 4mm pair for the gt350 i built. 64mm liners and ts185 pistons. easy enough to do - even by hand 
cheers, gil.
p.s. my watercooled gt250 with rd250lc top end used 3mm base plates. btw, don't try rd350 pistons in your big bore as they only use 14mm gudge pins and you need 16mm.

definitely iron barrels, teazer. after talking to uncle ron at fahron this morning i asked him about squish, as obviously the 550 doesn't have squish bands. he reckoned it was an easy fix, just machine the heads out to accommodate the oversized pistons, then reprofile the combustion chambers to get the compression ratio right. mine of information that old lad is 
cheers, gil.
p.s. ron isn't doing bad, he still works 6 days a week and he was 78 last month. hope i last that long 

wade, yes i am. i'm about to build - when he gives me the green light - my mate a big bore gt550. using ts185 standard pistons will give you a 598cc. you'll need to fit base plates, but there's a place over here [sorry, i forgot their name] that makes several different thicknesses of 550 base plates. we were going to go the whole hog and build a 636cc engine, but decided on the 598 as that would let him have 4 rebores, just in case he needed them. plenty of meat on gt550 liners 
cheers, gil.
p.s. crown height on a 550 piston is 23mm. crown height on a ts185 piston is 24.5mm. hence the base plate. and 550 engines will stand being ported without blowing the crank to bits 
p.p.s. there's actually a web page with a 636 engine build on it - 66mm pistons, but i'm blowed if i can find it.

many thanks again 
cheers, gil.

thanks mark, i'll relay that information to him. the 3 phase reg/rec he's using afaik is just a universal, which i think is the same as i had on my gt550 or 750. 3 yellow wires, a red and a black. unfortunately he's one of these people that wiring frightens to death and basically all he wanted to do was get rid of his old regulator and rectifier and fit an up to date reg/rec 
cheers, gil.

basically, we need to know where the green wire that used to come from the generator to the regulator now go? or what it actually does. the wiring diagram for his bike is no help at all 
cheers, gil.

mate is having tremendous problems with the wiring on his air cooled rd250. with a new 5 wire reg/rec on it he can work out where those wires go, but what now feeds the green wire that goes to the points? a wiring diagram would be most useful before he drives me mad. many thanks for any help 
cheers, gil.

definitely a later gt250a/b/c. judging by the square rear light and you can just see the 2 strengthening struts in the barrels. only the 250a onwards had these. the ramair barrels had 3 struts. doesn't look like a gt250 tank though, although it does suit it 
cheers, gil.

i'm still getting the same, but only on my laptop. if i don't log out i get this same message and have to log out - then it goes normal, then log in again. if i do log out i just have to log in and everything ok. weird, but true 
cheers, gil.
p.s. on the p.c. it's fine, just this bloody laptop.

just a smear of grease on each face works for me. no more ripping them in half when you remove the barrels and mine have never leaked 
cheers, gil.

i sorted the oil lines after an idea from a mate and that was to drop the ball onto its seat and give it a sharp tap. i did that and everything now spot on. rebuilt crank back from uncle ron and now the engine is fully rebuilt. the only problem is the oil pump return arm - it doesn't fully return. but i'm on it and see if i can fix it. the invader is no show pony - he actually rode it every day in all weathers 
cheers, gil.

t200 invader engine, now rebuilt:

crank has to come out to change the main bearings anyway    this was my ts250 motor as i bought it and engine after a visit to the aquablaster 
cheers, gil.

before:


after:

i put new ball bearings in all 4 banjos, after thoroughly cleaning them of course. left them hanging overnight and the left side was perfect, it had lost no oil. the right side though had lost about half the line of oil, so still leaking. these things are dead easy to get apart, but if i have to recut the seat i'm at a loss. the only thing i can think of is to superglue another 1/8" ball bearing to a length of rod and use fine grinding paste on it to lap the seat in. what a ball ache though 
cheers, gil.

i was thinking the same thing mate. one and a half swings on the kickstart to do that to a conrod? nah, just can't see it. it was definitely hydrolocked as when i told him to drain the cranks he got about half a pint - his words - out of the right hand side. i also found the nrv on the right - that feeds the right big end and mains - wasn't working. took the spring and ball out and rolled the ball around between my finger and thumb. it definitely didn't feel round. tried it with a not quite so old gt250 ball and it's almost cured it. new 1/8" ball bearings on their way and that should be cured 
cheers, gil.
p.s. where the piston was stopped it was just below the transfer port, which made me think circlip in the first place. needs a rebore anyway, with the score down the barrel, no matter what. touching wood here, but i've never had a piston circlip come out. i always use the 'C' shaped ones, not the ones with legs on them. and i always use british made circlips from imd pistons - i've actually bent genuine suzuki ones while trying to fit them.