Metric Dial indicator: $8-10
5/8 ID Rubber grommet: $1.50
14mm Spark Plug Fouler: $4
Indicator tip: $2-3
I had some issues making one at first with spacers and set screws, but this was the easiest and fastest way to make one that is effective.
Completed:
(https://i.ibb.co/W2prQmy/59404740-279243486352715-8999527536912236544-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yQBzDHy)
Purchased at auto store:
(https://i.ibb.co/ZTYmLdb/s-l500.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Purcahsed at Lowes Hardware:
(https://i.ibb.co/6shhKq8/59853452-2338142953118341-8620237291375296512-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vz55NMh)
(https://i.ibb.co/RNqrK5w/59523495-2051297178330783-5568571995735457792-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kJtbTdC)
Stuff the grommet inside (use soapy water or windex), then slide the indicator in.
(https://i.ibb.co/qN0hJMM/59362542-1255994124550818-6939111839598903296-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VgHbwWW)
Or you can just buy a 100-200$ yamaha one.
Nice. I never thought about using a plug fouler for a base. Where did you buy the indicator and extension tip?
The tip came with the indicator that I got from a buddy of mine. But I believe he ordered both of them from Aliexpress (China).
tip: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M2-5-Thread-1mm-Needle-Diameter-Dial-Test-Indicator-Contact-Point-40mm-Length-Measuring-Gauging-Tools/32989827276.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.64b963b4psiNec&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10130_10068_10890_10547_319_10546_317_10548_10545_10696_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_537_536_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_52,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=c537be8d-1b10-4c14-bf0a-d894ec08bee1-0&algo_pvid=c537be8d-1b10-4c14-bf0a-d894ec08bee1&transAbTest=ae803_5
indicator: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/0-01mm-Dial-Gauge-Accuracy-Measurement-Instrument-Precision-Tool-Dial-Test-Indicator-Gauge-Measurement-Instrument/32809561189.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.23.697b63b4KItmMZ&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10130_10068_10890_10547_319_10546_317_10548_10545_10696_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_537_536_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_52,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=9cbd6ff2-4ac4-4a29-a9a6-29a0ac8091c7-6&algo_pvid=9cbd6ff2-4ac4-4a29-a9a6-29a0ac8091c7&transAbTest=ae803_5
Awesome!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PVL-ENGINE-IGNITION-TIMING-TDC-T-D-C-INDICATOR-FOR-YAMAHA-SPARK-PLUG-THREAD-/163660070563?nav=SEARCH
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Quote from: Banshee Hp on May 08, 2019, 12:10:45 AM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PVL-ENGINE-IGNITION-TIMING-TDC-T-D-C-INDICATOR-FOR-YAMAHA-SPARK-PLUG-THREAD-/163660070563?nav=SEARCH
That's a much better option than a gauge held in place in the base only by rubber. In an ideal world it should be positively secured to ensure accuracy.
Unfortunately the Ebay listing says "(WILL NOT CLEAR COOLING FINS OF AIR-COOLED HEADS)" It would be cool if you could purchase the machined base with a longer housing by itself to use with a small face dial gauge.
This one I got from Yambits has served me well. :twocents:
https://yambits.co.uk/as1-dial-gauge-ignition-timing-tool-p-27294.html?osCsid=4erorvm26au4l6p1nschppk464
I bought one of these like 20 years ago. The one in the link below is for a small format spark plug, but I know they offer a full size one because I have one. I just couldn't find a proper link.
http://www.crpracing.com/ltigaad.html
I have the Central Tools #6491 kit (selling for about $200 currently). For those who have a gauge already and just need a base and/or extension tip, Central Tools parts are available separately.
(http://www.centraltools.com/all_images/replacement_parts/6491parts.jpg)
Central Tools #4317 - Replacement 14 mm Adaptor, (~$29)
Central Tools #4211 - 1.5" contact, (~$5)
Central Tools #4222 - 2" contact, (~$7)
The 4317 has a locking collar to firmly hold the gauge in place while still allowing for some adjustability.
Quote from: SoCal250 on May 08, 2019, 11:47:22 AM
I have the Central Tools #6491 kit (selling for about $200 currently). For those who have a gauge already and just need a base and/or extension tip, Central Tools parts are available separately.
(http://www.centraltools.com/all_images/replacement_parts/6491parts.jpg)
Central Tools #4317 - Replacement 14 mm Adaptor, (~$29)
Central Tools #4211 - 1.5" contact, (~$5)
Central Tools #4222 - 2" contact, (~$7)
The 4317 has a locking collar to firmly hols the gauge in place while still allowing for some adjustability.
Got that exact kit off ebay for 60 bucks used. Works a treat.
Quote from: SoCal250 on May 08, 2019, 11:47:22 AM
I have the Central Tools #6491 kit (selling for about $200 currently). For those who have a gauge already and just need a base and/or extension tip, Central Tools parts are available separately.
(http://www.centraltools.com/all_images/replacement_parts/6491parts.jpg)
Central Tools #4317 - Replacement 14 mm Adaptor, (~$29)
Central Tools #4211 - 1.5" contact, (~$5)
Central Tools #4222 - 2" contact, (~$7)
The 4317 has a locking collar to firmly hold the gauge in place while still allowing for some adjustability.
I had bought this originally and the needle fell off the first time I used it. I went to Hell and back trying to get a refund. I even had to threaten to get an attorney involved.
They did finally refunded my money, but man what a pain in the ass it was!!!
I got the one from yambits and its worked perfect.
All of those are great. I just wanted to share what I mocked up, and it works great for me. To each their own.
I almost went as far as designing and 3D printing a design I made.
I've got the central tools one. Great little piece
Quote from: quocle603 on May 08, 2019, 05:15:34 PM
All of those are great. I just wanted to share what I mocked up, and it works great for me. To each their own.
I almost went as far as designing and 3D printing a design I made.
If you did that I'm sure they would sell like hot cakes for the DIY crowd!
If you can print one with a set screw that is dimensionally stable over a wide variety of temperatures for like $20 shipped you have a winner. All the end user would have to do is add a $10 1" dial indicator. The indicator of course is invaluable.
I'm sure I could machine them on my mill out of aluminum in like 2 minutes of machine time, but with it requiring 2 setups it almost doesn't seem worth it. Somebody with active tooling on a lathe could churn these out so fast the entire DIY crowd would be supplied in a single night shift.
Unfortunately the Ebay listing says "(WILL NOT CLEAR COOLING FINS OF AIR-COOLED HEADS)" It would be cool if you could purchase the machined base with a longer housing by itself to use with a small face dial gauge.
[/quote]
You can get just that from Motion Pro. Just search adapter kit for aircooled engine
Quote from: rodneya on May 09, 2019, 12:56:04 AM
Quote from: SoCal250 on May 08, 2019, 01:08:21 AM
Unfortunately the Ebay listing says "(WILL NOT CLEAR COOLING FINS OF AIR-COOLED HEADS)" It would be cool if you could purchase the machined base with a longer housing by itself to use with a small face dial gauge.
You can get just that from Motion Pro. Just search adapter kit for aircooled engine
Good find. It's only ~$13 and it has a set screw to capture the indicator.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0249
One problem though: Adapter kit
does not allow two stroke timing kit to be installed on Yamaha RD two stroke twins when the engine is in the frame. Adapter kit with two stroke timing kit does work with engine out of frame.
I'm using some one ish inch mandrel pulled steel axle stock, cut to length to just clear the fins. That, with some electrical tape to snug it up in a cleaned out spark plug threaded body. More tape on the indicator, just one or two raps, and it's pretty tight. I've seen an indicator with a one inch diameter face that looked ideal for in frame clearance. Total cost was $20 for the dial gauge at my local tool store.
Just the weight of the gauge was enough to hold it against the tube but I added the tape just because. A tap and screw is more proper, but I ain't that way, so far. :devil:
The one I linked to earlier will fit a 2" diameter indicator on an RD350, but it's tight.
Quote from: SoCal250 on May 09, 2019, 11:30:06 AM
Quote from: rodneya on May 09, 2019, 12:56:04 AM
Quote from: SoCal250 on May 08, 2019, 01:08:21 AM
Unfortunately the Ebay listing says "(WILL NOT CLEAR COOLING FINS OF AIR-COOLED HEADS)" It would be cool if you could purchase the machined base with a longer housing by itself to use with a small face dial gauge.
You can get just that from Motion Pro. Just search adapter kit for aircooled engine
Good find. It's only ~$13 and it has a set screw to capture the indicator.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0249
One problem though: Adapter kit does not allow two stroke timing kit to be installed on Yamaha RD two stroke twins when the engine is in the frame. Adapter kit with two stroke timing kit does work with engine out of frame.
I just cut a piece off the top to make it a bit shorter and made a new set screw hole, so that I could use it with the motor in the frame
Not Homemade, but I've used this little gem with great results. You don't even have to remove the tank.
(https://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll297/vialfmly/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6101_zpsing5jwxh.jpg)
Can't seem to locate the eBay listing where I purchased it, but it's identical to the "Buzzetti Micrometer Timing Tool".
Mine isn't branded, and I only paid like $20-25 for it. So I'm sure if you hunt around you can find one cheaper.
Quote from: Redbird on May 12, 2019, 04:58:27 PM
Not Homemade, but I've used this little gem with great results. You don't even have to remove the tank.
(https://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll297/vialfmly/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6101_zpsing5jwxh.jpg)
Can't seem to locate the eBay listing where I purchased it, but it's identical to the "Buzzetti Micrometer Timing Tool".
Mine isn't branded, and I only paid like $20-25 for it. So I'm sure if you hunt around you can find one cheaper.
How does that work? I'm guessing you just set it at where ever you want to be BTDC and it acts as a kinda stop? Crank her over till the piston meets tip and Bob's yer uncle.
Quote from: rodneya on May 09, 2019, 12:56:04 AM
Unfortunately the Ebay listing says "(WILL NOT CLEAR COOLING FINS OF AIR-COOLED HEADS)" It would be cool if you could purchase the machined base with a longer housing by itself to use with a small face dial gauge.
You can get just that from Motion Pro. Just search adapter kit for aircooled engine
[/quote]
FWIW and I hate to say this because it seems like I am "that guy"...well I have bad luck with at least three RD related products I purchased online and this is one of em. So mine must've had some bad threads or something because I can only get in like two or three turns and it's just not going to thread in nicely like the sparkplugs will. It works but not correctly. This was before I new about this forum much less the existence of this thread unfortunately. I didn't want to deal with the hassle of sending it back nor the extra shipping costs so I just make due with its shortcomings and don't force it. Now that I have a Vape Ignition it sorta kinda did it's job and unless I rebuild the engine any time soon I really don't need it and even then the rotor has a machined keyway and timing has been verified by me so I'll probably never need it. At the time it frustrated me enough to wanna get a die to clean up, recut the threads. Like I say don't know if I was just a victim of a lazy production run of these but it would probably work wonderful if it would actually thread all the way in.
Quote from: RDryan on May 14, 2019, 06:47:25 PM
How does that work? I'm guessing you just set it at where ever you want to be BTDC and it acts as a kinda stop? Crank her over till the piston meets tip and Bob's yer uncle.
Yup. Thread it into the sparkplug hole and "zero" the tool by lining up the marks. Loosen the set screw and locate TDC by watching the rise/fall of the center post. Lock center post with set screw and rotate crank backwards a bit (for clearance). Then turn the dial on the tool to the desired advance (each mark on the tool equals 1mm BTDC). Once desired advance it set, rotate the crank forward until it contacts the tool/stop. Then set your points/ignition.
Pretty neat.
Quote from: Redbird on May 12, 2019, 04:58:27 PM
Not Homemade, but I've used this little gem with great results. You don't even have to remove the tank.
(https://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll297/vialfmly/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6101_zpsing5jwxh.jpg)
Can't seem to locate the eBay listing where I purchased it, but it's identical to the "Buzzetti Micrometer Timing Tool".
Mine isn't branded, and I only paid like $20-25 for it. So I'm sure if you hunt around you can find one cheaper.
https://www.treatland.tv/replay-ignition-micrometer-p/replay-ignition-micrometer.htm
DING! We have a Winner!
Thanks ;D
I need to save that now so I don't forget it later :haw:
Question for you all with electronic ignitions. First off, I haven't done much wrenching in many years, so please bear with me.
Do all electronic ignitions available today (I see several who say they have "Vape" ignitions) use optical triggers? For those with optical triggers, it's my understanding you use the devices above, with a dial indicator, to set timing. It's also my understanding you cannot use an old-fashioned "timing light" to try and time an optical-triggered electronic ignition, in this case, an old XR700 Crane ignition.
I farmed out the rebuild of my RD400 to someone who insisted on doing the entire rebuild themselves w/o any input from a certain person banned on the old board. When discussing the ignition, he related to the builder how it had previously been timed using a dial indicator. When the rebuild was done (several years ago) it ran perfectly and never went out of time for over 15,000 miles. I took the bike on several 1-1/2 day, 550 mile trips without incident. That was before an recent ill-advised venture into a rebuild in which clearances for Wossner pistons, but from another bike were used, with disasterous results.
At that point, partly because of a very significant change in work hours, far more than before, I decided not to ask him to rebuild and farmed it out. It had nothing to do with the previous rebuild or the troubles he had with the Daytona which were eventually solved, and that bike was ridden for another 70,000 miles (!) before sold. It was merely a question of not having the time to do so anymore, as he no longer works from home.
I got the bike back, and after doing a once over, safety-wiring the injector lines on, & a couple minor things, then doing a couple of static heat cycles to ensure the head torque remained okay, took the bike out for it's first ride. About 13 miles from home, the bike seized. The builder is speculating that the ignition -- presumably the module -- failed. But the bike had been running fine and idled perfectly. If the timing wasn't set right, being retarded for instance, wouldn't the bike not have been idling perfect? He says that would cause a lean condition, but that makes it sound like rather than the ignition failing, that it wasn't timed properly? I don't know exactly how the timing was set but he was having issues trying to use a timing light, at least initially. That's when the process of using the dial indicator was told to him. I don't think he had any faith in listening to him about how it had been set on the successful top & bottom end rebuild that had been done years before. At this point I haven't talked directly to him yet, just texted, but it appears from what little correspondence we have, that he possibly blames the seizure on ignition failure. Now, we have instructions on how to test the module and other components of the ignition we can provide to him. I really would like to know what the cause of the seizure is and basically put it on him to figure it out and get a bike back that will run for several thousand miles, not 13. I also acknowledged it will be some time because of a huge amount of family issues he has to deal with before he can have time to pursue reason(s) behind what happened, and told him I understand that has priority for him right now.
So, the point of all my long-windedness to know what the proper and best way there is to set ignition timing on an optically- triggered XR700 ignition. 1976 RD400C. The bike has stock porting, stock pipes, 145 mains, 27.5 pilots.
easy. use the dial gauge to set piston, make the timing mark (on a 400 i would go 1.9-2mm btdc) then time using a timing light. with optic systems like the crane/allison, or newtronics, you need to shield the pickup from light when using a light.
vape (mzb) and other cdi's use a proximity/magnetic trigger.
sure fire way (pun intended) to get timing right is to use a light after verifying the marks with the dial gauge.
more than likely, the timing was too far advanced.
Hey girl...a blast from the past!
That was hard to read through.
In a quick answer... Mark replied in brief.
RD's can seize many ways and much easier to do now than ever before as the gas we buy today compared to what we did 10-15 years ago!
In order for me to understand all the hoopla, I need facts, Was the engine bored with new pistons?
What brand and what clearances were used? How big is the bore now? As you go to the much larger bores I add clearance to the now thicker and heavier pistons and never stock clearances in the OEM manual unless your going to run fuel you DON'T buy at any unleaded street pump.
Oversized pistons can drive up the stock compression really high after 1mm over.
Carb jetting we used just several years ago now seem a bit too lean if run too hard.
Vape (MZB powerdynomo) and the HPI are working well. Dyna are fine too. No ones using optical ignitions anymore.
Like Mark said, if you use a timing light on them you have to make a rolled cardboard sleeve to shield any light from getting to the pickups.
Always use dial indicator to make reference marks for proper timing then verify with a timing light and make needed adjustments.
Here's pic's and a video of me verifying timing with a light on a Vape (MZB)
The reference marks for my pointer are 2.0mm and 1.8mm BTDC, so middle is 1.9mm
I also verified my charging voltage, but the Vape doesn't care about it to run as they are 2 separate systems, but I need to, to have all my lights and electrical relays work right.
Chuck
P.S. It's great to see you back! :clap: :celebrate:
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400/large/20180915_142557.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400/large/20180915_142639.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400/large/20180915_143918.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400/large/20180915_142649.jpg)
Video here.
https://imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400?p=249&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3 (https://imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400?p=249&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3)
Quote from: SUPERTUNE on June 27, 2019, 08:05:42 PM
In a quick answer... Mark replied in brief.
In order for me to understand all the hoopla, I need facts, Was the engine bored with new pistons?
What brand and what clearances were used? How big is the bore now? As you go to the much larger bores I add clearance to the now thicker and heavier pistons and never stock clearances in the OEM manual unless your going to run fuel you DON'T buy at any unleaded street pump.
Oversized pistons can drive up the stock compression really high after 1mm over.
Carb jetting we used just several years ago now seem a bit too lean if run too hard.
Thanks so much, Mark and Chuck. It's good to be back, but not for this reason!
All new top & bottom end: ProX pistons @ 65.5mm, clearance s/b whatever those call for.
How much additional clearance do you suggest with that oversize of pistons, Chuck? Perhaps that was the issue, using the standard ProX clearance??
Bike was nearly empty when we took off. I didn't want to put very much non-ethanol in, I don't like to run it at all, but to get to the Amboy where there is non-ethanol, I put in maybe one gallon. The bike wasn't run hard, never did more than 40mph as I was trying to get used to it again.
This board is invaluable with guys like you and Mark giving me all the stuff I need, it's much appreciated! What's keeping me from wrenching now is severe arthritis, my fingers & hands can seize up worse than that engine with too much gripping, but I might just tackle the RZ or my custom RD next, minus the boring and crankshaft work.
I can't really spring for a more modern ignition, assuming the module on this one is still okay. I've already spent more on the bike than I thought it would be, so I hope the ignition's still good.
Thanks again guys. If it wasn't raining right now I'd go for a spin on the HS1 or RD125. I need to hear more ring-dinging!
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400/large/20180915_142557.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400/large/20180915_142639.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400/large/20180915_143918.jpg)
(https://photos.imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400/large/20180915_142649.jpg)
Video here.
https://imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400?p=249&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3 (https://imageevent.com/supertune/paulsrd400?p=249&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=3)
[/quote]
ahhh back when my bike ran. how I miss it!
Quote from: Quicklimegirl on June 28, 2019, 12:19:16 AM
Quote from: SUPERTUNE on June 27, 2019, 08:05:42 PM
In a quick answer... Mark replied in brief.
In order for me to understand all the hoopla, I need facts, Was the engine bored with new pistons?
What brand and what clearances were used? How big is the bore now? As you go to the much larger bores I add clearance to the now thicker and heavier pistons and never stock clearances in the OEM manual unless your going to run fuel you DON'T buy at any unleaded street pump.
Oversized pistons can drive up the stock compression really high after 1mm over.
Carb jetting we used just several years ago now seem a bit too lean if run too hard.
Thanks so much, Mark and Chuck. It's good to be back, but not for this reason!
All new top & bottom end: ProX pistons @ 65.5mm, clearance s/b whatever those call for. How much additional clearance do you suggest with that oversize of pistons, Chuck? Perhaps that was the issue, using the standard ProX clearance??
Bike was nearly empty when we took off. I didn't want to put very much non-ethanol in, I don't like to run it at all, but to get to the Amboy where there is non-ethanol, I put in maybe one gallon. The bike wasn't run hard, never did more than 40mph as I was trying to get used to it again.
This board is invaluable with guys like you and Mark giving me all the stuff I need, it's much appreciated! What's keeping me from wrenching now is severe arthritis, my fingers & hands can seize up worse than that engine with too much gripping, but I might just tackle the RZ or my custom RD next, minus the boring and crankshaft work.
I can't really spring for a more modern ignition, assuming the module on this one is still okay. I've already spent more on the bike than I thought it would be, so I hope the ignition's still good.
Thanks again guys. If it wasn't raining right now I'd go for a spin on the HS1 or RD125. I need to hear more ring-dinging!
Q,
For Pro-x at that bore size of 65.50 size .0025-.0026
Forged pistons would be .0033-.0034
C
I use what ever the pump puts out at any station........air leak or really bad timing. Thinking air !
Quote from: Redbird on May 12, 2019, 04:58:27 PM
Not Homemade, but I've used this little gem with great results. You don't even have to remove the tank.
(https://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll297/vialfmly/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6101_zpsing5jwxh.jpg)
Can't seem to locate the eBay listing where I purchased it, but it's identical to the "Buzzetti Micrometer Timing Tool".
Mine isn't branded, and I only paid like $20-25 for it. So I'm sure if you hunt around you can find one cheaper.
I know this is old but I just ordered this item to check my timing. My bike seems down on power the last 2-3 outings. I had to rebuild once due to slipped timing and do not care to do that again.
Can someone tell me what the best (or easiest) method to tell when the timing is triggering (I have the vape system)? Listening for the sparkplug fire (out of the hole grounded in the bike) using multimeter?
I also plan on checking everything else this weekend, head torque, plugs, air filters. Check for leaks using something to spray at the posable air leak points.
Thanks for any suggestions on the checking timing...
with a vape? timing light. gauge to verify marks, has to be running to verify. :gentleman:
can I just find 1.9MM BTDC and verify it is sparking by moving it into this area? It was sent right by Chuck for sure. I want to be sure it did not move. I do not own a timing light, I can get one if I really need it.
it needs to be spinning to charge the primary coil to fire the ign coil. buy a timing light..? they aren't that expensive.
Thanks Mark. Do I not need a timing light that works on 2 strokes ?
Any inexpensive suggestions?
I've used this for a thousand years to do everything from TDC to crankshaft runout and all other myriad or measuring.
It always took some figuring setup..on making mounts. But works perfect every time. It cost a bunch back then..but now they are ebay cheap..
What is the model or manufacturer?
I would like to look for one.
Ahh......... Starret! I inherited some Starret and Mitutoyu machine tools from my cousin, still haven't figured out all you can do with them :umm:
any timing light will work. i have one of these, it works really well and does have a 2 stroke mode. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/anm-cp7529
Quote from: paul1478 on August 17, 2021, 07:55:46 PM
What is the model or manufacturer?
I would like to look for one.
If you are asking what dial indicator I posted.. it's a model 196 Starrett.
You can find the indicator alone pretty cheap online.. and there are cheap Chinese knockoffs too. But to be honest you really need the other parts in my kit to make it precise.. really helps.
I use a old compression tester that I modded to screw on the clamp. The ball rod slips down the hole into cylinder... works well.
https://www.economycycle.com/shop/yamaha-rd250350400r5ds6ds7-parts/electrical-ignitions-lighting/ignition/central-tools-dial-gauge-timing-kit/
worth it.
I saw that Mark. 200 for what I hope is just verifying. I will try and use the one I ordered.
I will set it the piston at 1.9 MM before TDC, mark the rotor as noted above by Chuck, use a pointer attached to the case and verify with the light.
Also,
good news about the timing light. I saw mixed ideas on what can be uses, some said needs to be 2 stroke. maybe that is only for showing RMPs and that will not matter on this.
Paul
https://ladspecialties.com/14mm-adapter-for-1-and-2-indicators/
I don't have this exact one but mine is similar.
Quote from: paul1478 on August 18, 2021, 01:16:43 PM
I saw that Mark. 200 for what I hope is just verifying. I will try and use the one I ordered.
I will set it the piston at 1.9 MM before TDC, mark the rotor as noted above by Chuck, use a pointer attached to the case and verify with the light.
Also,
good news about the timing light. I saw mixed ideas on what can be uses, some said needs to be 2 stroke. maybe that is only for showing RMPs and that will not matter on this.
Paul
regarding the light, yes, pretty much its rpm readout is the difference. its nice to be able to offset the degrees on it though, for use with a programmable curve.. or on a distorbutor with advance system (car).