I let my TZR250 sit for way too long (we're talking years), so I'm currently going through the recommissioning process...
The "To Do List" is quite long:
- Clean & rebuild carbs
- Replace fuel hoses
- Replace in-line fuel filter
- Add in-line manual fuel shut-off?
- Delete carb de-icing circuit
- Rebuild petcock
- Flush fuel tank
- Replace bad temp sending unit
- Flush cooling system and check
- Change trans oil
- Check & replace spark plugs
- Replace chain
- Replace front & rear tires
- Rebuild rear brake master & caliper
- Rebuild front brake master & calipers
- Replace battery
- Clean & detail
Carbs have been thoroughly cleaned in the ultrasonic and rebuilt with all new brass.
TRZR250_carb_dirty_resized.jpg
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Replaced all fuel hoses.
Bypassed the carburetor de-icing circuit.
New tires and chain
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Currently working on brakes.
Rear master is done, caliper will be completed today, then I'll move to the front.
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The mailman just dropped some more needed bits. The front master kit arrived just in time for the rebuild :thumbs:
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nice!!!
Have I mentioned how much I regret selling mine?
(https://i.ibb.co/1KkYs4k/3xv.jpg)
Quote from: pdxjim on June 23, 2023, 03:22:32 PMHave I mentioned how much I regret selling mine?
Yeah, you should have never let that one slip through your fingers.
Progress! :cheers:
Got the caliper rebuilt and the rear brake system installed on the bike. Just need to fill and bleed. Pistons were OK and everything cleaned up well even though it was pretty grimy and crusty in there.
The "To Do List"
Clean & rebuild carbsReplace fuel hoses- Replace in-line fuel filter
- Add in-line manual fuel shut-off?
Delete carb de-icing circuit- Rebuild petcock
- Flush fuel tank
Replace bad temp sending unit- Flush cooling system and check
- Change trans oil
- Check & replace spark plugs
- Replace chain
- Replace front tire
& rear tire - R
ebuild rear brake master & caliper - Rebuild front brake master & calipers
Replace battery Charged, seems to be OK- Clean & detail
Go get 'em Russ, that's awesome :thumbs:
Excellent work
Quote from: SoCal250 on June 23, 2023, 08:31:49 PMGot the caliper rebuilt and the rear brake system installed on the bike. Just need to fill and bleed. Pistons were OK and everything cleaned up well even though it was pretty grimy and crusty in there.
The rear brake work that was completed Friday. :thumbs:
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Currently working on the front. Made some progress yesterday.
Removed the whole system from the bike. The master has been disassembled and run through the ultrasonic and is now awaiting reassembly with the rebuild kit. Brake lines have been flushed.
Today's task is master reassembly, then breaking down the calipers and cleaning them up in preparation for assembly with new seal kits.
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I've run into several road blocks:
1) The front master is cleaned, rebuilt and ready to go back on, then I realized I hadn't removed the reservoir elbow to clean under it. It's not being cooperative. (Started a thread in Turning Wrenches about it.)
2) Several pistons are stuck in the front calipers. All outboard ones -- two on one side and one on the other. I've scrubbed around the outside edge of the bores to clean up the gunk but can't get them to budge. Even tried rotating and pulling with tiny vice-grips with a towel on the very edge of the exposed piston (outside the seal area) and no movement. They're now soaking in PB Blaster.
I think I'm going to have to get creative with some small C-clamps and pieces of rubber sheet to seal the crossover ports, and a larger C-clamp for the pistons. And then hit it with air again on the separated halves.
Russ, try these:
(https://i.postimg.cc/m2WZjDH4/IMG-8549.jpg)
They're just big-ass external snap ring pliers that every bike tech I've known used for caliper pistons. They're serrated (knurled?) on the tips and you can get a good bite on the inside diameter of the pistons.
(https://i.postimg.cc/449Nptnw/IMG-8550.jpg)
I think I got mine from Motion Pro
Looks like fun so far. It appears you have a SP/SPR swingarm on there. Are your forks fully adjustable by chance also?
Quote from: 85RZwade on June 27, 2023, 12:43:16 AMRuss, try these:
I think I got mine from Motion Pro
I had been looking for something like that but I think I was using the wrong search terms and could only find reverse snap ring pliers. I finally found the right type so I just ordered some Bikemaster piston removal pliers which should be here in a few days. I'm thinking with a little heat on the body and the pliers I may be able to get them out. In the meantime I'll give it another shot with air to at least see if I can get them to move out of the bores a little.
Quote from: busa1300 on June 27, 2023, 03:54:38 AMLooks like fun so far. It appears you have a SP/SPR swingarm on there. Are your forks fully adjustable by chance also?
Yes it had SP forks as well. They have dark colored tubes and are from a 3XVB I believe, as is the swingarm and body panels.
Watch this video. It may help with removing your stuck brake pitons.
Quote from: kpke on June 27, 2023, 07:57:58 AMWatch this video. It may help with removing your stuck brake pistons.
Thanks Ken! Watched it and I remember you sharing that method a while back. I'll give it a go today. If it works it will save me some time because I won't have to wait for the special piston pliers I ordered.
Nice to see you getting it going Russ! I sure miss mine a bunch. It was slow compared to my RGV but it was still a blast to ride and super loud with the Sugo pipes and TZMike silencers! FYI an RGV petcock will bolt right up and you can eliminate the crappy stock vacuum operated petcock.
https://www.thetuningworks.co.uk/store/product_info.php?cPath=122&products_id=879
I hope to see it at the extravaganza this year!
Quote from: Acme Moto on June 27, 2023, 05:49:15 PMFYI an RGV petcock will bolt right up and you can eliminate the crappy stock vacuum operated petcock.
Thanks for the tip Max! Definitively good to know and I'll probably make that switch later.
Quote from: SoCal250 on June 27, 2023, 12:17:14 PMQuote from: kpke on June 27, 2023, 07:57:58 AMWatch this video. It may help with removing your stuck brake pistons.
Thanks Ken! Watched it and I remember you sharing that method a while back. I'll give it a go today. If it works it will save me some time because I won't have to wait for the special piston pliers I ordered.
Spent 45min to an hour yesterday using the ratchet and sockets method on the 3 pistons. Mine are stuck! They don't even wiggle or move at all. I tried light force, a lot of force, going back and forth, etc. Nothing. Going to try again with some heat on the caliper bodies.
Some progress! Finally. :whoop:
So I used the method Ken shared above, but this time I also employed a suggestion from my friend so-cal-sdr200. He suggested heating the calipers in hot water and then dropping an ice cube into the pistons.
So, I got a pot of nearly boiling water, put a caliper in it for a few minutes and then melted a few ice cubes in a piston and went at it with the sockets and ratchet extension wedged in there. It took a lot of twisting back and forth and spinning but they finally came out! I repeated the heating/icing process for each of the stuck pistons. One of the larger ones was stubborn enough that it required reheating the caliper because it took so long. The seals were gooey and sticky on the exposed surfaces and very hard and not very flexible on the portion that was in the lands.
All parts came out unscathed and fully serviceable. So I ran them through two 20-min cycles in the ultrasonic. Next is the reassembly process which should be pretty easy. And I'll likely have to do some repainting on the caliper bodies since my previously pristine OEM paint is no longer very pretty and missing in places due to all the brake fluid.
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Glad you got them out.
Quote from: Kawtriplefreak on June 28, 2023, 07:45:00 PMGlad you got them out.
Thanks. Me too!
After their bath in the ultrasonic :thumbs:
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I put a set of TZ Nissin calipers on mine
Unintentional stoppies now...
(https://www.advrider.com/f/attachments/img_5562-jpg.2752810/)
(https://www.advrider.com/f/attachments/img_5584-jpg.2752811/)
Cool! :taz:
Made some decent headway yesterday. :olaf:
Front brakes are done! Decided to just run the front master as-is and hope that the internal chamber for the reservoir is clean. The spare YZF600R unit I ordered won't be here until maybe tomorrow anyway, but I do have a couple of the O-rings on hand now in anticipation of taking it apart sometime in the future. Did a little cosmetic paint tough up on the caliper bodies with some VHT caliper paint so they're now looking presentable and pretty close to how they were when I started.
Front tire is mounted and balanced.
Coolant reservoir tank has been flushed and cleaned.
Also I found that the battery I had is very 'iffy'. I was able to charge it up but it's more than 6 years old. And of course with my luck the replacement I ordered from MotoBatt was received with damage to the positive terminal and is unusable because they didn't pack it correctly. :rolleyes: They are sending a replacement which should be here tomorrow.
The "To Do List"
Clean & rebuild carbsReplace fuel hoses- Replace in-line fuel filter
- Add in-line manual fuel shut-off?
Delete carb de-icing circuit- Rebuild petcock
- Flush fuel tank
Replace bad temp sending unit- Flush cooling system and check
Flush coolant reservoir tank and clean- Change trans oil
- Change trans oil #2 (after running)
- Check & replace spark plugs
- Replace chain
Replace front tire & rear tireRebuild rear brake master & caliperRebuild front brake master & calipers- Recheck brake hardware torque and banjos. Fill & bleed front and rear
Replace battery Charged but questionable, 6yrs old. New battery ordered- Clean & detail
Today's tasks:
Fuel tank flush and petcock rebuild,
Cooling system flush,
Transmission oil change (I'll do it again after it's running),
and Cylinder inspection with borescope and install new plugs.
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Excellent progress!!
A little more progress today but yet another roadblock.
-Drained and flushed the cooling system. Refilled with distilled water for now, and I'll drain and refill it with coolant mix after it's been run for a little bit.
-Drained and refilled the transmission. The oil was very clean but I did get some dark sediment out at the end when I tipped it to the side to get the last bit out. Obviously it wasn't stirred up, but I'll be changing it again after it's been run for a short time.
Swapped in a set of new Iridium plugs. The old standard plugs looked OK, I don't think they have many miles on them. (The bike only has 4800 miles.)
-Checked the cylinders with my brand new borescope, which seems to work pretty well. No surprises. :thumbs:
Front cylinder and plug showed more carbon and appeared a little oily. Top cylinder and plug looks to be running a little leaner.
Then started working on the fuel tank. That's where the issue popped up. I discovered that the lock was frozen. Doh! At first I couldn't even get the key into but I soaked it with some white lithium spray, so now the key goes in fine but the lock does not turn. :sad: Tried to remove the entire cap assembly by removing the small bolts around the ring but I couldn't get it to come out. Wondering if it needs to be unlocked to release? (I posted the question in Turning Wrenches). Letting the lock soak overnight and I'll return to it tomorrow. I may try pushing from the inside with a rod fed through the petcock hole on the bottom. From the top there's nothing to grab onto and obviously I can't pry on anything since it's surrounded by paint.
The "To Do List"
Clean & rebuild carbsReplace fuel hoses- Replace in-line fuel filter
- Add in-line manual fuel shut-off?
Delete carb de-icing circuit- Rebuild petcock
- Flush fuel tank
Replace bad temp sending unitFlush cooling system and checkFlush coolant reservoir tank and cleanChange trans oil- Change trans oil #2 (after running)
Check & replace spark plugs- Replace chain
Replace front tire & rear tireRebuild rear brake master & caliperRebuild front brake master & calipers- Recheck brake hardware torque and banjos. Fill & bleed front and rear
Replace battery Charged but questionable, 6yrs old. New battery ordered- Clean & detail
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Bottom cylinder:
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Top cylinder:
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And my the used YZF600 front master showed up that I bought as a back-up/spare. It looks very nice for a 20 year old part!
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Looks there could be a possibility that the lid will come out, but not easily. Have very little room to pull the center of the cap back to get the lock lever away from the edge of opening....and the one hidden bolt...96ABB24E-F1E1-425E-A5FA-448326C68DE7.jpeg
Quote from: busa1300 on July 01, 2023, 08:22:21 PMLooks there could be a possibility that the lid will come out, but not easily. Have very little room to pull the center of the cap back to get the lock lever away from the edge of opening....and the one hidden bolt...
Thanks Randy. The lip that the latch catches on is part of the tank correct? Wonder if I would be able to tilt and slide out the cap assembly if that inner screw was removed?
I was thinking about drilling the lid to access that hidden screw with an Allen wrench, but from your picture it looks like I may have to drill through the inner bracket too. And hopefully that small crosshead screw in your photo is out of the way enough.
https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=5725.msg48237#msg48237
A little more progress today, but the fuel cap is a blocker currently.
Torqued all the brake hardware today and filled front & rear with DOT4. I did quite a bit of bleeding but neither one is firm yet. Letting it sit overnight and I'll hit it again tomorrow.
Got the petcock cleaned up and rebuilt. It wasn't too bad but the in-tank filter was toast. The screen was just disintegrating when touched. I decided it was going to create further issues so I just trimmed it off. and I'll run an in-line filter.
Received the new replacement battery from MotoBatt today for the damaged one, so I tested all lights which are OK, and the PVs cycle with key on, which is also good.
The "To Do List"
Clean & rebuild carbsReplace fuel hoses- Replace in-line fuel filter
- Add in-line manual fuel shut-off?
Delete carb de-icing circuitRebuild petcock- Remove fuel cap, fix lock
- Flush fuel tank
Replace bad temp sending unitFlush cooling system and checkFlush coolant reservoir tank and cleanChange trans oil- Change trans oil #2 (after running)
Check & replace spark plugs- Replace chain
Replace front tire & rear tireRebuild rear brake master & caliperRebuild front brake master & calipersRecheck brake hardware torque and banjos. Fill & bleed front and rearReplace battery- Clean & detail
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Have to decide which of these to install in the primary fuel hose before the splitter.
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I know on mine with the 36mm carbs, there is basically no room for a filter....it's going to be tight getting clamps on....
Looking at your cap.
I'm trying to remember .but I think it's the same as a R6 cap and you should be able to replace it with no key twist close racing cap for the R6
Quote from: busa1300 on July 02, 2023, 03:11:21 PMI know on mine with the 36mm carbs, there is basically no room for a filter....it's going to be tight getting clamps on....
I was able to get in in there, and an in-line shut-off too. :eek: I decided to go with the K&N glass filter.
I need a couple 90* elbows though to prevent kinking. It wasn't fun to get all that in under the tank with the airbox and cables. What a patience tester!
Quote from: soonerbillz on July 02, 2023, 03:39:50 PMLooking at your cap.
I'm trying to remember .but I think it's the same as a R6 cap and you should be able to replace it with no key twist close racing cap for the R6
I'll get an OEM replacement down the road. I was seeking a solution that would work ASAP. No time to order things right now.
I looked at the cap from my FZ6, it's similar but the bolt pattern is different. I thought I might be able to borrow it. No dice though.
Cap still available but not cheap.
https://www.revzilla.com/oem/yamaha/yamaha-4fm-24602-20-00-cap-assy?sku_id=1492482
Cheaper from Japan
https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya/yamaha/cap-assy-4FM246022000?q=3XC-24602-00-00&selectItem=1
Was able to get some more work done yesterday...
Brakes are bled and nice and firm now.
Fuel line is cut to length and routed. I installed the K&N fuel filter and a metal in-line fuel shut-off too. Just need to get two 90* elbows because it's pretty tight in there with the airbox and cables also fighting for space, and the hose wants to kink.
And the big task was getting the fuel cap off. Couldn't get to the latch screws from the petcock hole due to the angle and one of the screws I couldn't even see. I also tried to push on the latch with a long rod but the angle was not good and I couldn't really get to it.
I was able to drill an access hole in the top of the cap for the internal 5mm screw. That worked great! My placement was right on target and it was easy to get at it and unthread it. However, even with the cap completely unbolted it would not come out because the latch was still holding it onto the tank.
The next option was to drill out the lock. The lock cylinder was really stuck in there! The cap eventually came off but it wasn't easy. Then I was able to drive out the lockset on the workbench and remove all the tumblers, then file the sides of the barrel so it would slide into the bore and rotate. There was no way that lock barrel was going to turn with the key. The barrel and the bore had corroded and become fused together, requiring cleaning, filing, and polishing.
It now can be turned with a screwdriver and the latch can be opened and closed. The lock isn't pretty but it works, and with the small key flap closed no one will even know (except for the small hole drilled in the top). And it's only temporary until I can get a replacement.
The final step at the end of the day was to put some gas in it and test fire. Unfortunately, after many kicks I couldn't get it to fire. One strange thing I noticed is that while I was kicking it I heard the power valves cycle a couple times. Normally they only cycle when the ignition is first turned on. I was tired and it was late so that task can be revisited today.
Only a few more items left on the checklist:
The "To Do List"
Clean & rebuild carbsReplace fuel hosesReplace in-line fuel filterAdd in-line manual fuel shut-off- Add two 90* elbows to main fuel hose
Delete carb de-icing circuitRebuild petcockRemove fuel cap, fix lockFlush fuel tankReplace bad temp sending unitFlush cooling system and checkFlush coolant reservoir tank and clean- Flush and replace coolant #2 (after running)
Change trans oil- Change trans oil #2 (after running)
Check & replace spark plugs- Replace chain
Replace front tire & rear tireRebuild rear brake master & caliperRebuild front brake master & calipersRecheck brake hardware torque and banjos. Fill & bleed front and rearReplace battery- Clean & detail
- Fire-up & road test
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I know mine can take forever to get kicked over. Turning the lights off helps, as well as having petcock on prime till it starts.
Good luck, hope it all works
Yup. Petcock on prime, and lean it over till fuel runs out the overflow hoses.
Spent a few hours yesterday and a few more today.
Installed the chain.
Swapped out battery for the better freshly charged new one.
Pulled the tank and airboxes again and re-checked fuel hose routing and rearranged/trimmed it. Added an elbow to ease a sharp turn and found that the main hose before the "T" was completely kinked off against the airbox. I actually need a 2nd elbow to improve the routing but there are none within a 25mi round trip. A few stores actually show they have them in stock but there has been so much theft lately that in reality they have none when they physically check. :rolleyes:
Tried to start it using the method from Jim above and I was able to get it to fire on the top cylinder only. It won't run for more than 15 sec at a time. The bottom cylinder does not seem to be getting fuel, the plug was dry and didn't even smell like gas. Tired of working on it so I put it away.
The "To Do List"
Clean & rebuild carbsReplace fuel hosesReplace in-line fuel filterAdd in-line manual fuel shut-offAdd 90* elbow to main fuel hose Add 2nd 90* elbow to main fuel hoseDelete carb de-icing circuitRebuild petcockRemove fuel cap, fix lockFlush fuel tankReplace bad temp sending unitFlush cooling system and checkFlush coolant reservoir tank and clean- Flush and replace coolant #2 (after running)
Change trans oil- Change trans oil #2 (after running)
Check & replace spark plugsReplace chainReplace front tire & rear tireRebuild rear brake master & caliperRebuild front brake master & calipersRecheck brake hardware torque and banjos. Fill & bleed front and rearReplace battery- Clean & detail
- Fire-up & road test
Quote from: SoCal250 on July 04, 2023, 03:31:05 PMTired of working on it so I put it away.
At least it looks good :thumbs:
Sounds frustrating! Sometimes you gotta walk away for awhile...better yet, ride away :burnout:
Quote from: busa1300 on July 05, 2023, 01:56:47 PMQuote from: SoCal250 on July 04, 2023, 03:31:05 PMTired of working on it so I put it away.
At least it looks good :thumbs:
Quote from: 85RZwade on July 05, 2023, 02:08:22 PMSounds frustrating! Sometimes you gotta walk away for awhile...better yet, ride away :burnout:
I simply ran out of time. Too many hiccups along the way. I worked on this thing almost every day for 2-3 weeks I wanted to ride it for an event and needed sufficient time for shake-down and road test prior. Just didn't work out so I'm taking old reliable, the FZ6.
It's nearly completed so should be easy to button up the project once I have time to revisit. I think I need to go back and reassess the fuel line situation. Due to the routing I may have to 86 the filter and inline petcock. I really wanted to run a filter because there isn't one on the tank petcock or in the carbs any more.
would a 90 degree help?
The mikunis on my RGV's have the filters in the carbs where fuel line hooks up (as well as the petcock)...could use those as worst case scenario
I believe they are still available from The Tuning Works in UK... or maybe still from Suzuki... Could also order a RGV petcock while you are at it and be good to go.
https://www.thetuningworks.co.uk/store/product_info.php?products_id=823
https://www.thetuningworks.co.uk/store/product_info.php?products_id=879
I have the OEM filters that fit into the Mikuni TM28s but decided to omit them because they would get stuck inside the fuel line when it was removed each time, resulting in sacrificing the hose to get them out.
What type of fuel hose do you use on yours? I believe the OEM hose is 10mm to the factory T-fitting and then 8mm. I couldn't find the OEM hose anywhere so I'm currently using standard black 3/8" to the T and then 5/16" to the carbs.
I'm thinking of ordering some Tygon to replace it and see if that works any better.
Most aftermarket hose in those sizes causes issues because of bigger wall thickness than the OEM style.
im running some 3/8 i ordered from mcmaster carr, and its thin walled.
https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/163/5235K52
and these from the fitting of the tank to right before the petock. at least on the reserve line.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/263047897604?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=uxGRsaqrR2S&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=9DXeqLNdSLW&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
from the petock im running regular old rubber fuel line (automotive) to the tee, then parts unlimited blue urethane from the t to the carbs.
The TZR project is in a brief pause currently. Took a short vacation and now awaiting parts again.
I've decided to re-engineer the entire fuel delivery system since that's the source of the last issue I was facing. And I didn't want to have to go through it twice when I finally got around to upgrading to the RGV petcock that Max and Randy suggested earlier. By replacing the petcock with the Suzuki unit I can eliminate the need for the inline filter and shut-off valve, which will make the hose plumbing much more simple and easier to route.
So...I've ordered an RGV250 petcock and T-fitting. Once that's here I'll take measurements and order new hose from McMaster, similar to what Mark suggested above. The outlet on the RGV petcock is slightly smaller OD than the TZR OEM unit. Thinking I should be able to use 5/16" hose for the entire system, but need to confirm once I have all the bits in hand.
A replacement fuel tank cap is also on the way. Should be here by Monday.
And in the meantime, I was able to get my solo seat cover 'upgraded' with 10 World Championships! :metal: Thanks to Eddie, Kenny, and Wayne! :patriot: Now I need to find a local paint shop to clear it for me before I reinstall it.
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thats sweet!
yeah the fuel delivery system is def something to be desired. I absolutely hate it on the 1kt. I cant imagine on yours but im pretty sure its similar. you have the petcock on the actual tank though, right? (not remote)
Quote from: m in sc on July 18, 2023, 01:34:56 PMyeah the fuel delivery system is def something to be desired. I absolutely hate it on the 1kt. I cant imagine on yours but im pretty sure its similar. you have the petcock on the actual tank though, right? (not remote)
Yes, the petcock is a single assembly attached to the the bottom of the tank, and vacuum-operated (ON-RES-PRI). It has a large single outlet (about 10mm OD if I remember correctly).
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at least you don't have to drain the fucking tank everytime you remove it. like i do. :bang: :gentleman:
Quote from: m in sc on July 18, 2023, 02:07:45 PMat least you don't have to drain the fucking tank everytime you remove it. like i do. :bang: :gentleman:
Will a petcock from a 1990 3MA fit under your tank? That is what I am using on my RZV500R, which has a remote on/off/prime off to the left side.
Quote from: SoCal250 on July 18, 2023, 12:57:14 PMAnd in the meantime, I was able to get my solo seat cover 'upgraded' with 10 World Championships! :metal: Thanks to Eddie, Kenny, and Wayne! :patriot: Now I need to find a local paint shop to clear it for me before I reinstall it.
20230718_093101_TZR_autographs.jpg
Cool seat cover :thumbs:
How did you manage that?
That would really look good on my 3XV2 :whistle:
Quote from: busa1300 on July 18, 2023, 07:19:44 PMQuote from: SoCal250 on July 18, 2023, 12:57:14 PMAnd in the meantime, I was able to get my solo seat cover 'upgraded' with 10 World Championships! :metal: Thanks to Eddie, Kenny, and Wayne! :patriot: Now I need to find a local paint shop to clear it for me before I reinstall it.
Cool seat cover :thumbs:
How did you manage that?
That would really look good on my 3XV2 :whistle:
Went on a charity ride that Wayne hosted. Even though the TZR wasn't ready to ride I brought the tail cover in my backpack with a Sharpie.
Got to ride with Kenny, Eddie, Schwantz, Shobert, Chandler, Ricky Johnson, and Checa. It was epic! :righteous:
Quote from: m in sc on July 18, 2023, 02:07:45 PMat least you don't have to drain the fucking tank everytime you remove it. like i do. :bang: :gentleman:
I don't have this on my TDR. Why you need to drain the tank to remove it?
because theres 2 10mm fuel lines coming straight out of the tank that loop around the frame to the remote petcock on the rh side of the frame, wedged in between the frame rail and the fairing.
Quote from: m in sc on July 19, 2023, 06:57:24 AMbecause theres 2 10mm fuel lines coming straight out of the tank that loop around the frame to the remote petcock on the rh side of the frame, wedged in between the frame rail and the fairing.
Great job SoCal. If that ride comes up again in the future please post up here or send me a PM please.
Mark, I'm sure you saw this in another post. These shut off the fuel when disconnected. They are 3/8" very equivalent to 10mm. Available in straight also.
(https://i.imgur.com/uCDJSQA.jpg)
i bought one, doesn't flow enough. I did a pressure drop/flow test on it, flowed less than a 6mm id hose, which is what feeds the fuel t. I have a few ideas what im going to do, but i do appreciate it. :gentleman:
Quote from: m in sc on July 19, 2023, 10:23:25 AMi bought one, doesn't flow enough. I did a pressure drop/flow test on it, flowed less than a 6mm id hose, which is what feeds the fuel t. I have a few ideas what im going to do, but i do appreciate it. :gentleman:
3MA-24510-00-00
(https://www.oldpartsshop.com/image/cache/catalog/TZR/Fuel%20Tap%203MA-24510-00%20(3)-500x500.JPG)
now THATS interesting. However, i cant access the bottom of the tank when its on so would always be on reserve or ON, so id have to modify it. its a shit design, not going to lie.
The replacement fuel cap arrived early so I replaced that yesterday. I went for one of the better repop units instead of OEM or the really cheap Chineseium stuff on eBay. Seems to be well made, fits nicely and looks good. Even came with a large rubber gasket under the mounting bracket which my original did not have. And it was about 1/3 the price of OEM.
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Now I'm stuck in a holding pattern waiting for parts.
I had decided to go with an OEM Suzuki petcock as opposed to the repops available on eBay, and with my luck it is now backordered (despite the availability displaying as '3-4 days' when I submitted the order).
Shipping Estimated Date:7/31/2023-8/7/2023 :rolleyes:
Once that is here I can eliminate the inline filter and shut-off valve that I installed previously and then replumb new fuel hose
The "To Do List" (revised and getting shorter)
- Petcock - replace with Suzuki unit
- Fuel hoses - replace & re-route
- Carbs - check & adjust after running
- Coolant - flush and replace #2 (after running)
- Trans oil - oil change #2 (after running)
- Paint - clearcoat solo seat cover
- Chain - re-check slack after running (30-40mm)
- Fire-up & road test
- Clean & detail
I haven't posted an update in a while so I thought I'd add the latest news. The Suzuki RGV petcock arrived, as did the hoses I had ordered from McMaster. I got some black thin-walled hose that Mark had mentioned previously and some Tygon, thinking I could use some of each for the different sections or just go with the one that worked better.
A few weeks ago (Aug 11) I finally found the time to install it. I pulled the entire fuel hose assembly out so the previously installed inline filter and inline shut-off valve were deleted. This allowed for a much cleaner hose install and more direct plumbing with shorter runs and fewer turns. Decided to go with the yellow Tygon since it is less prone to kinking than the thin wall black. Since all the hose is now the same diameter (3/8", 8mm) I also replaced the OEM T-fitting with a brass 3/8" piece because the OEM Yamaha part is 10mm in and two 8mm out. I have a Suzuki OEM 8mm T-fitting on order (now backorder) but it's been a month and no signs of it yet.
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The Suzuki OEM petcock has an 8mm brass outlet.
One interesting fact the petcock is configured for an optional dual outlet, it just needs to be drilled and tapped for a 2nd outlet fitting.
I'm sort of considering modifying the petcock someday so I have two outlets. Then I would be able to run hose directly to each carb and delete the T-fitting.
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RGV250 petcock installed.
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I'm now getting fuel to both carbs but it still will not start. It only runs for about 5-10 seconds on the rear carb. After kicking it 30-40 times and also trying to bump it on the street I was exhausted and gave up. Need to do some further investigation to see what the issue is an verify there's spark on both cylinders.
The "To Do List" (revised and getting shorter)
Petcock - replace with Suzuki unitFuel hoses - replace & re-route- Carbs - check & adjust after running
- Coolant - flush and replace #2 (after running)
- Trans oil - oil change #2 (after running)
- Paint - clearcoat solo seat cover
- Chain - re-check slack after running (30-40mm)
- Fire-up & road test
- Clean & detail
i def have petock envy. looks great :olaf:
Russ, I had the same problem with my 3xv. It was difficult to start and would not stay running. Checked everything multiple times and finally found the lower intake manifold was cracked. Replaced with a new one and all good!
Sad story connected to my 3xv. A good friend/collector had two 92' 3xv5's and one was blinged out with all the the period correct Sugo and Daytona trick bits. He gave me the stock one as a gift as I wrenched on all his bikes for him and he felt it was appropriate to give it to me. His wife had been battling cancer for years and it became terminal. He was starting to sell bikes to pay for medical bills so I gave the bike back to him so he could sell it. A month later he died of a heart attach at 50 years old and a month after that his wife passed. He was a good dude and I miss dearly. Sorry to hi-jack your thread!
Quote from: Acme Moto on August 30, 2023, 05:20:36 PMRuss, I had the same problem with my 3xv. It was difficult to start and would not stay running. Checked everything multiple times and finally found the lower intake manifold was cracked. Replaced with a new one and all good!
Sad story connected to my 3xv. A good friend/collector had two 92' 3xv5's and one was blinged out with all the the period correct Sugo and Daytona trick bits. I gave me the stock one as a gift as I wrenched on all his bikes for him and he felt it was appropriate to give it to me. His wife had been battling cancer for years and it became terminal. He was starting to sell bikes to pay for medical bills so I gave the bike back to him so he could sell it. A month later he died of a heart attach at 50 years old and a month after that his wife passed. He was a good dude and I miss dearly. Sorry to hi-jack your thread!
Thanks for the tip Max, I'll look into that when I have the time to get back at it. This thing has always started in 1-2 kicks since I bought it back in 2004. Guess I shouldn't have mothballed it for so long.
Really sad story! :sad: Sorry for the loss of your friend.
Had the autographed solo seat cover clear coated at Lanzini Body Works. Very happy with the result, he did a great job and even touched up a couple tiny scratches in the red paint. Found out Mitch the owner is also a 2-stroke nut and owns a mint Y/B RZ350 and a restored JT2, both of which were in his shop.
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Haven't had much time to work on the remaining items for this bike, but at least one more thing can be crossed off.
The "To Do List"Petcock - replace with Suzuki unitFuel hoses - replace & re-route- Carbs - check & adjust after running
- Coolant - flush and replace #2 (after running)
- Trans oil - oil change #2 (after running)
Paint - clearcoat solo seat cover- Chain - re-check slack after running (30-40mm)
- Fire-up & road test
- Clean & detail