Yamaha TZR250 refresh

[busa1300]

Looks there could be a possibility that the lid will come out, but not easily. Have very little room to pull the center of the cap back to get the lock lever away from the edge of opening....and the one hidden bolt...

[SoCal250]

Looks there could be a possibility that the lid will come out, but not easily. Have very little room to pull the center of the cap back to get the lock lever away from the edge of opening....and the one hidden bolt...

Thanks Randy.  The lip that the latch catches on is part of the tank correct? Wonder if I would be able to tilt and slide out the cap assembly if that inner screw was removed?

I was thinking about drilling the lid to access that hidden screw with an Allen wrench, but from your picture it looks like I may have to drill through the inner bracket too. And hopefully that small crosshead screw in your photo is out of the way enough.
https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=5725.msg48237#msg48237

[SoCal250]

A little more progress today, but the fuel cap is a blocker currently.

Torqued all the brake hardware today and filled front & rear with DOT4. I did quite a bit of bleeding but neither one is firm yet. Letting it sit overnight and I'll hit it again tomorrow.
Got the petcock cleaned up and rebuilt. It wasn't too bad but the in-tank filter was toast. The screen was just disintegrating when touched. I decided it was going to create further issues so I just trimmed it off. and I'll run an in-line filter.
Received the new replacement battery from MotoBatt today for the damaged one, so I tested all lights which are OK, and the PVs cycle with key on, which is also good.

The "To Do List"

• Clean & rebuild carbs
• Replace fuel hoses
• Replace in-line fuel filter
• Add in-line manual fuel shut-off?
• Delete carb de-icing circuit
• Rebuild petcock
• Remove fuel cap, fix lock
• Flush fuel tank
• Replace bad temp sending unit
• Flush cooling system and check
• Flush coolant reservoir tank and clean
• Change trans oil
• Change trans oil #2 (after running)
• Check & replace spark plugs
• Replace chain
• Replace front tire & rear tire
• Rebuild rear brake master & caliper
• Rebuild front brake master & calipers
• Recheck brake hardware torque and banjos. Fill & bleed front and rear
• Replace battery
• Clean & detail

Have to decide which of these to install in the primary fuel hose before the splitter.

[busa1300]

I know on mine with the 36mm carbs, there is basically no room for a filter....it's going to be tight getting clamps on....

[soonerbillz]

Looking at your cap.
 I'm trying to remember .but I think it's the same as a R6 cap and you should be able to replace it with no key twist close racing cap for the R6
 

[SoCal250]

I know on mine with the 36mm carbs, there is basically no room for a filter....it's going to be tight getting clamps on....

I was able to get in in there, and an in-line shut-off too. I decided to go with the K&N glass filter.
I need a couple 90* elbows though to prevent kinking. It wasn't fun to get all that in under the tank with the airbox and cables. What a patience tester!

[SoCal250]

Looking at your cap.
 I'm trying to remember .but I think it's the same as a R6 cap and you should be able to replace it with no key twist close racing cap for the R6

I'll get an OEM replacement down the road. I was seeking a solution that would work ASAP. No time to order things right now.
I looked at the cap from my FZ6, it's similar but the bolt pattern is different. I thought I might be able to borrow it. No dice though.

[busa1300]

Cap still available but not cheap.

https://www.revzilla.com/oem/yamaha/yamaha-4fm-24602-20-00-cap-assy?sku_id=1492482

Cheaper from Japan

https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya/yamaha/cap-assy-4FM246022000?q=3XC-24602-00-00&selectItem=1

[SoCal250]

Was able to get some more work done yesterday...

Brakes are bled and nice and firm now.
Fuel line is cut to length and routed. I installed the K&N fuel filter and a metal in-line fuel shut-off too. Just need to get two 90* elbows because it's pretty tight in there with the airbox and cables also fighting for space, and the hose wants to kink.

And the big task was getting the fuel cap off. Couldn't get to the latch screws from the petcock hole due to the angle and one of the screws I couldn't even see. I also tried to push on the latch with a long rod but the angle was not good and I couldn't really get to it.
I was able to drill an access hole in the top of the cap for the internal 5mm screw. That worked great! My placement was right on target and it was easy to get at it and unthread it. However, even with the cap completely unbolted it would not come out because the latch was still holding it onto the tank.
The next option was to drill out the lock. The lock cylinder was really stuck in there! The cap eventually came off but it wasn't easy. Then I was able to drive out the lockset on the workbench and remove all the tumblers, then file the sides of the barrel so it would slide into the bore and rotate. There was no way that lock barrel was going to turn with the key. The barrel and the bore had corroded and become fused together, requiring cleaning, filing, and polishing.
It now can be turned with a screwdriver and the latch can be opened and closed. The lock isn't pretty but it works, and with the small key flap closed no one will even know (except for the small hole drilled in the top). And it's only temporary until I can get a replacement.

The final step at the end of the day was to put some gas in it and test fire. Unfortunately, after many kicks I couldn't get it to fire. One strange thing I noticed is that while I was kicking it I heard the power valves cycle a couple times. Normally they only cycle when the ignition is first turned on. I was tired and it was late so that task can be revisited today.

Only a few more items left on the checklist:

The "To Do List"

• Clean & rebuild carbs
• Replace fuel hoses
• Replace in-line fuel filter
• Add in-line manual fuel shut-off
• Add two 90* elbows to main fuel hose
• Delete carb de-icing circuit
• Rebuild petcock
• Remove fuel cap, fix lock
• Flush fuel tank
• Replace bad temp sending unit
• Flush cooling system and check
• Flush coolant reservoir tank and clean
• Flush and replace coolant #2 (after running)
• Change trans oil
• Change trans oil #2 (after running)
• Check & replace spark plugs
• Replace chain
• Replace front tire & rear tire
• Rebuild rear brake master & caliper
• Rebuild front brake master & calipers
• Recheck brake hardware torque and banjos. Fill & bleed front and rear
• Replace battery
• Clean & detail
• Fire-up & road test

[busa1300]

I know mine can take forever to get kicked over. Turning the lights off helps, as well as having petcock on prime till it starts.

Good luck, hope it all works

[pdxjim]

Yup. Petcock on prime, and lean it over till fuel runs out the overflow hoses.

[SoCal250]

Spent a few hours yesterday and a few more today.

Installed the chain.
Swapped out battery for the better freshly charged new one.
Pulled the tank and airboxes again and re-checked fuel hose routing and rearranged/trimmed it. Added an elbow to ease a sharp turn and found that the main hose before the "T" was completely kinked off against the airbox. I actually need a 2nd elbow to improve the routing but there are none within a 25mi round trip. A few stores actually show they have them in stock but there has been so much theft lately that in reality they have none when they physically check.

Tried to start it using the method from Jim above and I was able to get it to fire on the top cylinder only. It won't run for more than 15 sec at a time. The bottom cylinder does not seem to be getting fuel, the plug was dry and didn't even smell like gas. Tired of working on it so I put it away.

The "To Do List"

• Clean & rebuild carbs
• Replace fuel hoses
• Replace in-line fuel filter
• Add in-line manual fuel shut-off
• Add 90* elbow to main fuel hose Add 2nd 90* elbow to main fuel hose
• Delete carb de-icing circuit
• Rebuild petcock
• Remove fuel cap, fix lock
• Flush fuel tank
• Replace bad temp sending unit
• Flush cooling system and check
• Flush coolant reservoir tank and clean
• Flush and replace coolant #2 (after running)
• Change trans oil
• Change trans oil #2 (after running)
• Check & replace spark plugs
• Replace chain
• Replace front tire & rear tire
• Rebuild rear brake master & caliper
• Rebuild front brake master & calipers
• Recheck brake hardware torque and banjos. Fill & bleed front and rear
• Replace battery
• Clean & detail
• Fire-up & road test

[busa1300]

Tired of working on it so I put it away.

At least it looks good 

[85RZwade]

Sounds frustrating! Sometimes you gotta walk away for awhile...better yet, ride away 

[SoCal250]

Tired of working on it so I put it away.

At least it looks good 

Sounds frustrating! Sometimes you gotta walk away for awhile...better yet, ride away 

I simply ran out of time. Too many hiccups along the way. I worked on this thing almost every day for 2-3 weeks  I wanted to ride it for an event and needed sufficient time for shake-down and road test prior. Just didn't work out so I'm taking old reliable, the FZ6.
It's nearly completed so should be easy to button up the project once I have time to revisit. I think I need to go back and reassess the fuel line situation. Due to the routing I may have to 86 the filter and inline petcock. I really wanted to run a filter because there isn't one on the tank petcock or in the carbs any more.