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Thanks for the recommendation on a sealer, it stopped the leak on the boot side.  Now it "only" leaks between the reed cage and head.  Just used a gasket without anything sealer. Tried tightening them a little more, but it still leaks.  Torques to 90in lbs, 7.5ftlb  Then tried some anaerobic sealer, lightly on both sides of gasket, and let it sit overnight.  It reduced the leak but sill seeps some.  The good news it looks like the crank seals are good.  This is my first Daytona, the barn find bike is still in boxes...  Should I try to reed cages or another sealer?  The mating surfaces were clean and appear to be square/plumb, so to speak.  Thanks in advance!! 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284528802926?hash=item423f3cfc6e:g:640AAOSwXZphkSiF

Replacing my intake manifolds they were leaking.  What's the trick to stop leaks?  What torque specs? I hear 10Ftlbs, which seems like a lot tp me, 120InLbs.  New gasket between case and Reed box (no RTV sealer), black RTV around the manifold circle and reed case.  Torque diagonally.  Thanks in advance...

https://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/mcy/d/lewisville-1979-yamaha-rd400-daytona/7391869810.html

No afflation with the seller..

Replacing my intake manifolds.  What's the trick to stop leaks?  What torque specs? I hear 10Ftlbs, which seems like a lot to me, 120InLbs.  New gasket between case and Reed box (no sealer), black RTV around the manifold circle and reed case.  Torque diagonally.  Thanks in advance...

What's the best way to clean up the wheel lips while retaining the original black paint?  The spokes cleaned up nice with scotchbright pad, so the same on the lips? Any other wheel restoration ideas?  Thx

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id def leave it stock, but id also address every seal and bearing on the bike. 

Agreed!!

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Will most likely will have the crank rebuilt. Will add that to the while its apart to do list. This bike 100% stock 3100 mile Daytona. It did sit in a barn in NH for 35yrs. Think I'm leaving this stock.  Have another 79 that will get tricked out, a little.  Thx for your comments.

Case came apart easily. Crank bearings look dirty but are very smooth.  Whats the best way to clean up crank safely?

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Another angle

Does this help?

Sounds like a plan.  Thanks for the info.  I'm not looking for it to be too shinny, just back to the "factory" look.  Still the same process, but just less of it?  I'm in NJ as well, just west of Newark off 78.  Thx Rob

Any head polishing experts? What's the best approach to restore this head to look like new?

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Finally found some time to disassemble the barn find RD. The insides all look really clean, especially the stator assembly. Next up is to clean the engine up before splitting the case to replace all seals. Bike has 3100 on it and compression was 155 in both cold.  Will rebuild the oil pump and carbs, and probably paint and polish the cylinders/heads, but this is very original bike so the plan to keep it that way.  Front caliper is seized so it soaking, and will rebuild all calipers and masters, yuk.  I want to touch up exposed areas on the frame, what the go to paint for this?  I would guess it should be brushed on not sprayed?
Constructive thoughts and ideas are welcomed.

Merry Christmas,

Rob

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That crossover intake setup is USA '79 OEM.

Very cool, its too bad it's cracked. Should I run a crossover intake like an RZ?

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