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A few folks have inquired so I figured I'd share what I found and use frequently to save money on standard shipping charges.

www.parcelmonkey.com

I am not in any way affiliated with them. I started looking around for ways to save on your typically high shipping charges from FedEx and UPS. As an example, a 15x15x12 box that weighs 20 lbs, if you were to go to the UPS site and ship it across the lower 48, would run you anywhere from 70 to 100 dollars or more depending on insurance.

Through parcel monkey that same shipment would run around $35.

I am not 100% sure how they do it, but I think they buy up a bulk rate and resell them to site users at a slight markup. In the end we both win. I've shipped 8 or so packages ranging in sizes and weights from 70lbs or less and have never paid more than $55.

A great example was the label I paid $30 for I emailed to Mr Ritter so he could send my cylinders and heads back. It got sent next day air from UPS. I didn't pay extra or anything.

Just thought I'd share what works for me.

I finally started painting and bolting parts back on the frame. I stuck the forks on and thought, I'll get the front end together. After fighting the ball bearings and using what felt like a half pound of grease to keep them on the bearing race. But... Oops. I need the parts back from the painter. 

It's looking good though and I'm excited!

Just as the title states, I have a visible gap with the TDR reeds I picked up on my Rd350 modified reed cages. I understand that reeds don't close all the way when running, but I also hear if they seal good they lend to easier starting. I have tried sanding down the reed block a bit to see if it helps, but I'm gaining little traction and don't want to mess it up. I still have the stock metal reeds and if needs be I'll just run those.

Anyone have any tips?

Hooray!

I should have checked this before. 

So, if I remember correctly, after you clean and flush out the crank , one should test the bearings in the crank for any funky noises right? So, you spin the bearing dry correct? Brake kleen and a few spins later. Well, I think mines got issues, here's a video.

The crank sounds fine with a drop or two of 2t oil in each bearing. Which, well, makes sense.  This project jumped a level in expense I wasn't anticipating.

After racking my brain over what tool to buy to pull the fork seals. I immediately thought of a slide hammer puller, but why spend the money?

A 3/8" x 8" carriage bolt, a 5/8" washer that just fits the inside lip of the seal, a 3/8" washer and a regular nut. Grind the larger washer sides to fit it inside the fork tube and past the lip of the seal.  Provide your own 1/2" impact socket of choice and pull the seal in 10 seconds without the muss and fuss.  Courtesy of a small YouTube channel.  Works a treat.

After John finishes the porting and mills the heads, he's also milling the cylinders for RD400 gaskets. I'm switching out to fiber reeds (.020 Stage 2 TDR reeds) and installing reed spacers (EC 9mm ones).

I was running a 200 main jet on the Dave F mod (Drilled, not threaded for air jet).
I'm guessing I'll have to go up on the main jet to start over? So, should I try the 220 again or go higher?

Anybody hedging there bets on a big old bubble of GME Hedgefund goodness? Or is it just me? Holding my own at 5 shares. 

Not looking for drama, just asking if anyone is playing the game.  I couldn't resist a shot at some extra tendies.

Called a local shop to get the frame powder coated. Was told $250.  Hell yeah, not a bad price. So I'll check that off the list and drop it off with my tax return.

Called a local chrome shop for the fenders.

$350 to $400 a piece... OK goodbye.

Holy 

So now what? Lol

Before anyone jumps to conclusions, I mean there's rust INSIDE the fork tubes.

Picked up a NOS set of tubes off Fleabay a while ago. I'm sure surface rust will come off, but running along the inside of the tubes, basically the whole way down is what looks like mild pitting. Assuming the Amazon brush I ordered can scrub the corrosion away, will this internal pitting cause any issues with the fork piston running? I'm sure some oil might leak around it, but do you think it could cause trouble?

The outside of the forks was what sold me, one fork has one visible pit spot I'll gently sand down and fill with super glue, but it's well past the fork travel, more near the middle of the tube. Just turn it backward and whistle away. 

Well, my pie plate fix for the snowmobile air box... isn't. At least, it quit being "a fix" at some point, either on the trail last year, or who knows. But, the middle of that tinfoil is gone. Probably through the motor... Sled was always hard to start. I think this GAPING hole in the airbox that some genius decided was a good idea, is the culprit. So, now what do I try? Either fix it again, or track down a 60 dollar airbox for a 600 dollar sled. 

Although my silicone job was top notch.

So, some here know my bike is on just about every piece possible. Boxed up, torn down and ready for some action. I'd like to get it rideable for the gap this coming May if possible.

1. The Frame:
Stripped of visible rust in spots I could get to, needs painted. New gas tank is at painter getting dents pulled and rust repaired still. Oil tank and side cover need work and paint. Need decal set for tank. I can reassemble it and run it at the gap with the old tank if I need to. My headlamp bucket and ears are bent and ears cracked in need of welding and of course paint. OR, I can replace it with an EMGO lamp from EC. Thoughts?

2. Electrics:
I already have and was running the Vape system. The main harness to run the front and rear lamps is still intact but has a few broken wires I had jumpered to get me by. I either need a new harness I can streamline into what's important, or I need a good used one I can strip down and lose the excess wiring. Keeping things stockish.   

3. Speedometer and tachometer:
I need to get a hold of Mark and coordinate that. Life's been getting in my way recently, but that should be covered. NBD.

4. Drivetrain:
Still running a standard 530 chain and sprockets. All less than 3k on them. Still in good shape. Would be an extra expense to swap, but should I? Chuck mentioned last year he would want to swap the RD250 gearing for his 400 conversion. Makes sense to me which leads me into...

5. Motor:
Obviously seized it and its completely apart. I bought a cooler to ship this bad lad in. So, I can loosely reassemble it and send it on its way. This is the largest expense and is my Achilles heel atm.

The crank:
It's a bit discolored (blued) on the seized side little end rod, just barely blue on the other side. Other than a few flecks of aluminum I found in the bottom end, it looks like it's in good shape. Vito's crank, specifically. Can they be rebuilt? Or should I just fork over for a new one?

Engine cases:
Fully disassembled and top portion vapor honed. Just need to stop being lazy and do the bottom case. That requires elbow grease first.

Cylinders:
I want to do a decent street port. I want to ride it. My friend want's me to just go absolutely bonkers with it. He said: You already have a street bike, just go nuts with it. I'm on the fence about it. I like the idea of additional power, but the ability to still ride it to shows, etc. without dying. Aside from the banshee intakes and crossover tube. The carbs were basic Dave F'd and that's really it.

Pipes:
I have the JL retro's and they work fine for my needs. But, I'll take any input.

Basically, what if anything can I do to expedite thing's? I wanted to write down my work list and take any input on the best course of action you guys take. 

Well, I got sick of trying to find someone locally and took the plunge myself into vapor blasting. Harbor Freight cabinet, some essential parts and duct tape means i can at least start cleaning parts! This was done with armex soda in a slurry solution. Cabinet leaks and makes a mess, but I don't care. I'm getting awesome results so far.

So, this might surprise some of you, but I haven't taken the shift mechanism out of my  RD motor yet.  What after the shift lever and bushing comes out do I need to take out,  and how do I go about it without springs flying and parts missing?

Well... this was not how my night was supposed to go. Didn't have my camera on or I would have shown you the actual moment. But, I was riding home from the girlfriend's house. She's around an hour from me if you take the freeway. The ride to her place I plotted out on surface streets and got there in just under 2 hours earlier today. It's late, I'm tired and its getting dark. So, I decide to forgo the surface street fiasco's and just take the freeway. All was well for around a half hour (minus the fact that 75mph on this bike is torture, and I was fully aware of this lol).

A mustang cut in front of me and slowed down as a car in front of them braked. I rolled off the throttle pretty heavy and snapped it back open. That slow... methodical melting sound started and I immediately pulled the clutch in. Motor shut off right away as was expected. I managed to make it across 3 lanes and coast to a stop. A nice and soft kick check confirmed. Solid as a rock. Like a Chevy.

After the initial whoopsies, and choice words, I began pushing my dead soldier along the side of the freeway. About 300 feet or so before I tried the kicker by hand. Well, it rolled over... tight, but rolled over.  Waited a few more minutes and kicked it for real. She felt ok. Fired it up and happened to be on the 11 mile exit. Rode 35 to 45 mph home with the deafening slap of the right side piston. But, I do have to say the bike did indeed make it home under it's own power. Ran on both cylinders too.

I'll check it tomorrow. But, I have a feeling I ran it lean. It was around 70F. 200 mains, Dave F, 3rd position.

[EDIT: Please move to Haus of Projects. I'm just a bit tired and dumb tonight.]

EDIT: Please move to Haus of Projects. I'm just a bit tired and dumb tonight.

So you might remember I've debated painting my bike off and on for a while now.

I decided my best course of action was to leave my original tank as is and just try to find a better option. Well, Ebay struck me the other day and I now own an old RD350 tank that will do nicely.


So I start by checking around for body filler. Found it exactly where seller said it was. Was around a 1/4" thick. As you can see this dent has a decent crease in it. I'm not PDR guy, so I might be paying someone to pop that out.


Good application of heat mixed with a razor scraper and the yellow rattle can paint peels right off revealing primer, and the old orange paint.


Looks a lot better after an hour of scraping. So, off to a dent specialist and this tank will be ready for a fresh coat. Inside looks good as well as all the seams. I'll update as I progress.

So the chaps over at aircooled RD club have a handy list of paint codes for the UK and EU bikes. But, I couldn't locate the code for the US spec bikes.

Anyone have a list?

I'm I'm asking cause I just picked up another tank in good shape and want to have a few cans of legit paint mixed up.

Just so others are aware, I was struggling with finding a flasher that was the correct voltage and hookup for the RD250. My main issue was the various flashers I tried would either not blink at idle, or blink, but change blinking rhythm with the RPM of the motor.

The solution was one I snagged off the Honda OHC forum (Thanks Google). It's an electronic flasher. Never thought of it before. But, using the Novita EP-35 (available at any auto parts store for around 12 bucks) has now solved my flashing woes. This is a 3-pole flasher, with one pole being positive, one load, and one negative. I just made a quick ground wire and hooked the flasher up to my bike. It flashes correctly now and comes on instantly. 

Ok not to waste money on what is very likely the same cylinders that come out of India,  but these are a curiosity to me. It seems like a bad deal, but almost worth buying just to see how bad they actually are.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/64mm-RD-350CC-LH-RH-Cylinders-Pistons-Complete-Kit-For-YAMAHA-1973-1974-1975/184408765114?hash=item2aef9e72ba:g:~g8AAOSw5XRfO~2H

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/918710795282696/

Well, it would behoove a seller to at least wash a motorcycle and take good pictures for the pricetag.

Also, these look kinda cool, just crusty.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/627362154831764/

I have a Koso Speedometer currently installed on my handlebars. It works but looks dumb. I was curious about a bracket to mimic the shape of the original speedometer that I could silicone the speedometer into and essentially replace the speedometer in the dash.

Might a 3d printer come in handy here? I have the Koso XR-01.