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Best ignition?

Started by pdxjim, April 09, 2019, 06:05:58 PM

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pdxjim

What's the "best" complete ignition currently available for aircooled RD350?

Factor in price, ease of setup, reliability, availability, etc.

Will be going on race bike but would like the option to power lights and run a battery in the future
Wasting time on 2T forums since the dawn of the internet. '89 TDR250, '13 300xcw, '19 690smcr, '56 Porsche 356A

quocle603

Basic electronic ignition would have to go to Vintage Smoke Ignition from Nick.

As you already saw, the HPI is a great option. Mark Haase is one of the few people who have experience with it.

There are many people who have installed and experience with the VAPE CDI (formerly Powerdynamo/MZB). You can put a Zeeltronic on the kit to give the ignition kit a curve. You can get a lot of information from people on the forums about it.

He doesn't make them anymore, but there is Chinoy RD CDI but I have no idea on the ignition. The guy who makes them knows a lot about RDs and has been a big resource for people.
Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC

m in sc

IMHO, the BEST all around cdi setup is the powerdynamo if you can get the new version as it has a full charging circuit thats easy as pie. the hpi is an ac unit which can be used to dc conversion but the output isnt really high.

for stock alternator setups, nicks dyna is sweet.

I currently have one of each of these on my bikes.

I always though the chinoy cdis were garbage. Others will argue, but thats personal preference. (and experience replacing them for people after they shit the bed).

:twocents:

quocle603

#3
Quote from: m in sc on April 10, 2019, 02:24:00 PM
IMHO, the BEST all around cdi setup is the powerdynamo if you can get the new version as it has a full charging circuit thats easy as pie. the hpi is an ac unit which can be used to dc conversion but the output isnt really high.

for stock alternator setups, nicks dyna is sweet.

I currently have one of each of these on my bikes.

I always though the chinoy cdis were garbage. Others will argue, but thats personal preference. (and experience replacing them for people after they shit the bed).

WELL SAID!  :clap:

Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC

Tuck

My Powerdynamo (static) has been flawless. Very straightforward and easy to install. Just don't forget to feed your neutral wire thru the wiring loom.


2 Stroke Jamoke

+1 for powerdynamo,  I have about 2000 flawless miles on mine. Installed one on a yamaha r3 and a dt250,  both are working beautifully!

quocle603

#6
Tons of good reviews on the powerdynamo kit. I was considering this kit as well but decided that I did not want to re-wire my entire bike and spend the money if i am just going to keep it stock.
Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC

pdxjim

#7
Great info from just the man I was hoping would chime in.

Still looking hard at the HPI as it's half the price of the Powerdynamo and has modern curves built in.

Any more insight would be helpful as I know next to nothing about this stuff
Wasting time on 2T forums since the dawn of the internet. '89 TDR250, '13 300xcw, '19 690smcr, '56 Porsche 356A


Dvsrd

Quote from: quocle603 on April 10, 2019, 10:45:48 PM
Tons of good reviews on the powerdynamo kit. I was considering this kit as well but decided that I did not want to re-wire my entire bike and spend the money if i am just going to keep it stock.
Well, you don't need to rewire the entire bike. Just removal and replacement of the wiring between alternator, reg/rect and battery. And new wiring between the new cdi box/coil and the cdi pickup (all necessary wiring is included in the PD kit) It is possible to keep the stock points wires if you should want to, just coil them up and tuck them away. The only additional item needed is a generic 12 V relay to keep the ignition lock and kill switch working. The relay is then controlled by the stock +12VDC supply to the stock coils. Easy and not really an irreversible mod. And it works great!

m in sc

^ its not hard to wire up, pretty well documented.   :twocents:

idr5c

I'm running the HPI on my race DS7, works great so far. The lighting coil is small, but I think with LED lights and such it could be made to work on the street.

The HPI rotor is very light and that is supposed to improve crank life in track use.
Stephen Phillips
WMRRA #494
http://www.wmrra.com

m in sc

Quote from: idr5c on April 17, 2019, 12:40:50 PM
I'm running the HPI on my race DS7, works great so far. The lighting coil is small, but I think with LED lights and such it could be made to work on the street.

The HPI rotor is very light and that is supposed to improve crank life in track use.
thats what i did. if i was running a battery woud be ok using regular bulb, but at idle no good w out battery..

quocle603

Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC

SUPERTUNE

Race RD's and others without lighting:  PVL no question.
Street and recreational race with lighting:  powerdynomo suits well.
Not a fan of the race powerdynomo, had one less than a year old go bad. Might have been bad luck, but was a major headache at the track when it crapped out...
HPI seems to work well, I don't have experience with them yet.
Race RD's don't need much of a aggressive timing curve as the powerband without powervalves to expand power in the lower revs where more timing is needed.
So the straight curve powerdynomo does fine and the PVL in racebikes allows retard of timing in the upper revs helps gain more rpm when using high compression ratio's
Chuck
RD machine work, boring, porting, cranks and engine building.


Chuck 'SUPERTUNE' Quenzler III
Team Scream Racing LLC
1920 Sherwood St. STE A
Clearwater, FL. 33765
cqsupertune@tampabay.rr.com