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I use a 6' length of PT 2x10 and one of those aluminum brackets from Harbor Freight [emoji41]

My chopper would end up rubber up, like a BMX bike.

the ready ramp is good. with anything, use the pins to secure them to the bed or a strap.

or

pull the trailer w the truck.  i much prefer hauling on a trailer then in a truck bed. (hence why i no longer own a truck)  but thats just me.

You've seen my trailer.  It was tricky to back it up even with my small car, with a truck it'd be even more of a PIA.  Plus it has 10" wheels, I'm not really able to get on the highway comfortably. 

I use Ready Ramp and cannot say enough good things about it.  I have had it for over 15 years and used it on multiple trucks including working for a bike shop for a few years and picking up bikes on a regular basis. 
I currently have a F150 that has a decent lift and the FPP chambers on my RD clears with no problem.  (I do always try to park on a downhill when loading if possible)

Its nice that it folds and also serves as a bed extender with straps that snap right into your tailgate latches.

https://readyramp.com/features/

Never heard of them.  I dig the functionality.
But the weight limit is about 600 lbs.. I imagine it might work though.  I don't have a Goldwing, but my chopper isn't light.

I'm looking to buy a motorcycle ramp.  I'd been using a tilting 3 rail trailer for years with my car, but I just got a 3rd Gen Tacoma and need a good ramp to load bikes with. 

The reason I'm asking for opinions here is a lot of us have RD's with chambers, and the last thing I wanna do is use my JL's like a skid plate.  The curved ramps look to mitigate that, but what are y'all using?

I'm also gonna be loading a stupid Harley chopper, so weight capacity is kind of a concern. 

Thanks in advance.

Invaders are chopper garbage, but that set right there is pretty rare.
How about a set of Hallcraft Satellites?

Buy once cry once?
Pitbull.

I can't believe how much I've used mine.
If you haven't already been on Little Machine Shop www.littlemachineshop.com prepare to blow some money.

For those that are not technically inclined, just go with the 2015 Yamaha SR400 entire front suspension, inclusive of brake set-up. The rake is the same as the RD350. New tech, vintage looks and parts are not +35 years old...

Do you have that on your bike?  Any pics?

Nice setup RetaRD!
So the XS hub is wider than an RD hub from center to disc mounting flange?

Also, that specific Ducati/ Brembo disc looks great, but is heavier than most other 320 mm discs, because the hub/ carrier is steel, not aluminum.

Thanks.
From what I recall, no, the rotor mating surface is the same distance from center, as I used the same rotor spacers from my earlier FZR rotor/caliper setup I ran on a stock RD hub.  I would have to check and verify that though. 

I was referring to the spoke flanges being slightly wider, which with a 298mm rotor would not easily clear an XS hub, but 320mm does enough, with some very minor shaving of the caliper. 

True, the stock Duc rotor isn't the lightest, but now that I have the setup dialed in I can try to source and aluminum hat version of the rotor.  The 320mm Duc rotor is still much lighter than a stock RD rotor with all the benefits of larger size and floating. 

I'm using a Ducati 320mm monster rotor, silver dot caliper (aluminum pistons) and a Yamaha warrior master from a quad.  Stainless braided line.  Best brakes out of ALL my bikes.
I laced the wheel with an XS650 hub, which has a wider flange width than the RD, so I did shave a LITTLE off the back of the caliper to clear the spokes, but with an RD hub it would've probably cleared, since the rotor is 320mm.
I took a gamble on the warrior master, as the perfect size master for the surface area of the silver dot pistons didn't offer a lot of options.  I knew the warrior quad used two 2 piston calipers with pistons that weren't large like the RD, looked factory, and were cheap and plentiful.  Worked out perfectly.

But no, not the stock rotor.  Clearance wouldn't be possible and brake performance is hugely improved with a larger modern rotor.

You state that it runs fine in your first post. I wouldn't do anything that might jeopardize that to just even the pulses at idle.

Agreed.  This is just an idle sync issue most likely. 
Don't worry about exact turns on the idle screws per each side with markings, do what the bike wants.
If you slowly turn one idle screw in on one side while going out on the other, you'll see a difference. 
It won't take much adjustment at all.

Either percolator, or cowboy coffee Kent Rollins style. Throw grounds right in pot and bring to rolling boil. Cold water over surface to settle grounds and pour coffee.

I do this when I'm camping.
I was blown away the first time I had seen it done.

NYSingh, don't be afraid to look 'outside of the box'.
You may well find that adjusting the carb cable on the colder cylinder; tighter by 1/4 of a turn at a time may well rectify the issue. I always set up my bikes dynamically, not staticly. Airscrews included. You have the MASSIVE advantage of combustion temperature gauges (whether cylinder head or exhaust). Jet engines use the latter, its a most useful method of combustion control.


Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

I agree, and do the same thing.
Once I know all other settings are the same... airscrew, idle, timing, floats, etc.. I'll set the carb cables to match EGT between each cylinder, holding it just off idle. 
It's often a very small adjustment.
I also adjust the idle screws to balance the cylinders out at idle as well, using EGT.

My EGT split throughout the RPM and throttle position range is usually within 10 degrees, and sometimes dead nuts the same.

I love mine. 
Best part is they work better on a Phillips than Phillips work on Phillips.
No cam out.

Thanks for the replies.
I'm addressing multiple geometry issues, most stem from the same issue. 

Been following him a for a while, he's passionate.  I dig it.

I have a request.
I need to know the height of a stock RD 350 with stock tire sizes, from the ground to the bottom of the frame, just forward of the exhaust mounts. 



I'm guessing it's 10.5", just wanted to confirm. 
I'm trying to correct a geometry issue with my bike since going to the Motolanna swingarm.  The shock mounts on the swingarm are further back and the swingarm is about 2" longer than stock.  My bike currently sits lower than stock in the back with this setup... steering is a little slow and I don't have good ground clearance. 



Thanks in advance.