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https://youngstown.craigslist.org/mpo/d/southington-1974-yamaha-rd350/7510005849.html

I have neither the time nor space but messaged him anyway cause, well, because.

I still might go get it but maybe one of you really needs it.

Doesnt look like it has reeds on it to me so maybe wrong on year, I have more pics as well.

If ridin bikes hasnt gotten him yet, I dont think it's gonna get him:)

I saw him do the demo laps at indy on the tz750 10+ years ago, dude was goin alot faster than I thought he would and looked like he could have done it one handed, wavin and throwin candy.

Theres probably some vids online, ya know, that internets thing.

Long sleeves with American flag and a cowboy hat, I think he could get through tech

I always intend to go but the Pittsburgh Vintage GP typically conflicts and is a much easier and less costly trip.  Also not a fan of the ama either so happy to take my $ elsewhere.

You'll have fun though, it's nice and big, typically well attended and nice to ride around to spectate.

The guys I know that go religously shop early if theyre looking for something specific and arent to concerned about price and shop late for deals on stuff that sellers dont really want to take home.

The Triumph/BSA rally guys will be there selling their raffle bike tickets, grab a flyer and come to the fall rally.  Its low key camping style but its a good location, they do group rides and you can compete in observed trials at almost any level of talent or bike practically for free.

Been workin on an AC only, points and carb setup recently while I'm waiting for my machinist to visit for the 400.

Incredible simplicity, almost wireless operation:)

Now kinda wondering if there was ever a flame ignition bike.

When ya got nothing to lose, anything might be better:)

Funny that the manual did actually have a good recommendation, atf(5?) or 10 wt sounds pretty light for old stuff and I'd certainly head for the syrup for older setups.  Maybe that stinky fish oil isnt so bad after all.

Lots of good suggestions above, modernish triples def have their own good feel to them. I'll throw into the hat an old cheap ass ZX-6 or the always popular Vstrom, not sure if u can put SV suspension on an Strom but if so, thats well developed.  Pretty sure ppl were racing those FZ07s as well but havent been on the scene in a while.

I realize you mentioned "modern" but considering some older stuff, old Connies go real cheap here and go well and my ST1300 hauls the mail but are both pretty big, heavy and old at this point.  Hard bags FTW though, if you've never had em, well, you dont understand:)  Lots of vintage gold wings seem to be going for little money if want to go full size, younger guys have been bringing them around and they really are good bikes, def more touring tho.

I remember being suprised at the number of people that declined your offer, its not like someone else is on the bike controlling your right hand. 

Dead stator, meh, its an old engine, things break.

I've seen plenty of adults whisky flip the kids 80/85 goin up hills on the pipe, maybe thats where all the hesitation comes from.

Just saw one of the old yzs yesterday, the Gromdinger is about the same size, think yz sits higher but is softer.

If theres nothing obvious, having a look at the plugs is easy and if your timing is marked even close, thats pretty easy to listen for to see if its close while the plugs are out.

Fresh fuel from a different station is pretty easy too, the cage wont mind a MC tanks worth of bad gas.

It is indeed badass, very well balanced and easy to ride like a regular person if so inclined. 

Plenty quick and fast but totally manageable, less bananas than Jaime's 750, we'd all buy em if they made them that way.

I'm sure M can nitpick it but I dont remember anything other than it being a very fun bike.  We'll, I think the speedo didnt wasnt done yet when I was on it but it is/was? totally unnecessary @ the gap, you are well aware that you are going faster than the legal limit.

Still waiting for him to find a new shiny object and need the space:)  I'm afraid its a keeper tho.

If you have both halves, well, thats how long it was:)

Any hardware store will have a tester for the pitch and dia, you probably will have to clean up your end so it will start tho.  If you find a long one, buy a nut for it too and you can put on the nut,  hacksaw it to length, then run the nut off, repeat and dress with file as necessary.  Can do with a cutoff wheel but since its hardened, maybe better to do it by hand.

Thats not a big bolt but no way that should break at 12-14, even if made of chinesium.  That said, I'd still listen to M's advice. 

The last trailer hitch I put on came with 10.9 M12 fine 1.0? 1.25? and I think car calipers are 10.9 often but will probably be too long and too big. The neighbor and I have a big ass drawer full of old fasteners I could look through if you get the spec and get stuck.  You could also tap your own if you find a long one with partial threads.

My local shops arent local anymore and then you get into well, thats not our tire and we charge $300 for em and we dont have any in stock and you'll have to drop the wheel off for a day.....I could buy a new bike with fresh tires on it faster:)

I used to have a car guy local that would do it, super cool and was always in and out even when he didnt know I was coming.

Still dont know why most car guys say they cant do em, imma have to take a look at this special car only machine the next time I'm in.

The tireman at the track showed me how to use the fancy pneumatic machine and then I did a bunch of changes to help remember.  The tireman is underappreciated on a busy, hot day.

Waaaay better than doing them by hand, the bead breaker alone makes me want one but they sure are heavy and take up alot of space.

A different guy has some hitch mounted setup that is manual but also is a pretty slick setup.  There was frequently no vendor for the tires he ran and competitors started wanting $20 per wheel and he was goin through quite a few of em and doesnt mind wrenchin.

My favorite is to ship buy em off of Wheelers at deals gap, they change them happily and are a true old school shop and motorcyclists.  Kenny also knows a thing or two about those fiddies if you are trying to make a fast one.

Anneal and clean gaskets, make sure heads are flat, check to see if cylinder is flat, be sure head studs are clean and that the bolts thread easy, make sure you use the washers.  Reinstall and tighten slowly and evenly in an alternating crisscross manner, use a torque wrench and just keep going back and forth.  Theres probably a pic in a manual for which order to do them in but I doubt most people follow it.

Assuming its sealed, heat cycle, then check em all again. I try em at the low end of the spec kinda thinkin that its less likely to warp the head and I can always go up but thats probably all meaningless if you do it evenly. 

Sometimes I'll use a very thin film of goop on ones that dont like to stay in place.  Permatex copper certainly doesnt hurt anything.  In theory, neither should be necessary.

Doing them slowly and evenly is the trick imho.

Done probably less than a 50 so not a pro, there are certainly plenty of them here though, you can always check the manual, it should be in there:)

If you are up in the panhandle or at least above Wheeling, I'm not far at all and could help, but again, not a pro, just patient and persistent.  Been done quickly in the pits by racers 1000s of times so you should get it.

Lol, I type too slow but here it is in one place:)

Considering your experience, 100% will do a leakdown and not just throw it together, promise.  Been meaning to build a rig for that for quite a few years.  Could switch to four strokes but that doesnt seem likely to happen:)

Did notice a drip under it as well walking past it tonight....oh well, add it to the list, still totally worth the effort.

Going to have an experienced eye evaluate the cylinder and do what needs to be done. Should only be 1 up at worst imho.

Glad to click around and see the Grom is still healthy and thanks again for the ride, keep me on the top of the list for when you are done with it:)  Sucks that we cant buy stuff like that brand new, it really is a great bike.

Finally, thanks to you and the mods for keeping the forum alive, was disappointed to miss the gap but should get down there with some old race friends early fall, will represent the 2 stoke brotherhood and spread the word

Well since mine is on the floor in pieces, this is mine open and closed, 77 400, pretty sure stock. It will definately stay on riding it slowly, warming it up, I dont remember if it vibrates closed if you forget to close it, feels like it might but I think I can ride it with it on.  The little cam like arm is pretty stiff and, without looking it up, I'd guess is what makes it "spring" closed or open.