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I cleaned the carbs (chem-dip, rinse, air gun)  last summer and rode it. Ran the bike through with sta-bil, then ran the carbs dry before storing it. When I did the work, I looked over the carb quickly and the jets weren't clogged, so I swapped the main jets to the 190 and put them back in the bike. Since the carbs will be coming off again, I'll dunk them in the chem dip. As far as the air jet, I always blow the passages out after dipping the carbs, but they are un-modified and perhaps something came dislodged?

To properly clean the carbs you must dissamble them and remove the jets, then clean them with parts cleaner (e.g. Chem-Dip), then rinse and blow out with air gun. Dunking alone does not do much. The pilot and needle jet are usually the things that clog up first. I used to use a toothbrush on mine with Chem-Dip before I got my ultrasonic cleaner. 

Oh im sorry I did disassemble them fully. Should have mentioned that.

Sounds lean to me too but how did it run before, or is this the first time running it since the 350 conversion and the mods? Are your carbs clean? Have you had the needle jets out and are they clean? There are many things that can make it run like that.

This was the first time running it after all the mods were performed. I did run it on the center stand on the points once the pipes were on just to hear it for the first time, but switched it over to electronic the next day.

I cleaned the carbs (chem-dip, rinse, air gun)  last summer and rode it. Ran the bike through with sta-bil, then ran the carbs dry before storing it. When I did the work, I looked over the carb quickly and the jets weren't clogged, so I swapped the main jets to the 190 and put them back in the bike. Since the carbs will be coming off again, I'll dunk them in the chem dip. As far as the air jet, I always blow the passages out after dipping the carbs, but they are un-modified and perhaps something came dislodged?

The multiple carb mods I'm reading about are a bit of voodoo to me, as I know I would botch that kinda job with my mickey mouse set of tools. So if they require it in terms of reliability, perhaps I can ship them off to someone.

The EC manifolds were a very tight fit inside the reed cages, so I put a thin coat of Permatex case-half sealer on both sides of the gasket and one side of the carb boot to ensure a seal. Doesn't mean it worked I guess lol, but I was in a hurry as usual to hear the thing run.

I have my 1975 RD250 converted over to a 350 fresh bore with Jim Lomas street retro pipes and an Economy Cycle crossover tube (large fuel line style) and manifolds. As well I converted her to electronic ignition with a Vintage Smoke Dyna setup at 1.8 btdc  (1.81 left and like 1.79 right. As close as I could get).

The air filter that came out of the bike from stock was unbaffled and the jets were 120 mains on a 30 pilot. Stock needle and 0-8 needle jet.

I replaced the main jet with a 190 main to start , left 30 pilot in it. Then ran it around the block a few times. It seemed kinda all over the place. Initially started fine after rebuild, but seemed to not like idling the other day. Turned idle screws up half a turn and raised idle to about 1400. Still stalls on occasion. Tried setting air screw to 1 and 3/4 out from 1 and 1/4, still died when cold. Seems to idle fine when hot.

I know I made a lot of changes to the bike all at once so it's a rough start with tons of new info, but the main thing was it seemed to be running rough,  surging at slow speeds every now and then, not taking throttle well. Carbs were synced before taking off bike and a quick check with my finger inside carb bells showed they matched each other at full throttle when I put them back on.  Top end felt lax as well.

I have to pull plugs to see but I wonder if its lean? 190 seemed a good spot to start since it is 5 main sizes over stock.

This is cross posted in ac rd club. Suggestions so far have been larger 35 pilot and main jet, and plug the EC crossover. Also pressure test motor. Which I might be able to do but for now I'll check with propane or ether around motor.

Springs always face the outside. So, I'd say yes. :)

Also, make sure to put a little 2 stroke oil on the lips of the seals.

Tuck that's a different bike. Unless you were joking at that flew right over my head...

I always remembered what Toomey pipes sounded like on Banshees and of course the supercross circuits when I was growing up. My only question is... has anyone ever put a set of fattys on an RD? Would it look stupid... yes. But damn it would be sexy.

She's a beauty.  I might have to consider saving up my pennies. What would shipping cost I wonder...

Anyone have any luck with aftermarket versions?

Hate posting something so simple,  but I know some bikes allow this so I want to be sure. Is the key supposed to be removable when the bike is on? I noticed this last year when I went to leave the local burger joint. I turned the bike on and my glove caught the key ring and out it popped onto the ground.

I'm just glad it never fell out while riding. But, I have a feeling my ignition switch is a little tired.

So, this bike has been my project for the last year and a half.

I'm a glutton for punishment, so after just getting it running great on the 250 top-end, a set of 350 cylinders were gifted to me, and the work to change her over is set to be done before spring. But, here she sits after over-hauling a majority of the bike minus the cosmetics. The list is so long it hurts and the pricetag just north of 3K made many of my friends and family shake their heads in disbelief as this bike belonged in the junk-yard according to them (HA!).

https://imgur.com/gallery/1vhJMRp

The only question now is... to see if I should have the tank, oil tank, and side covers repainted given the extent of the chrome damage etc...

Lol, talk about a "survivor". Damn thing looked even worse before I had it.

EDIT:

Insert foot in mouth.

That is all.