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This thread somehow opened up a pandoras box of cool race cars for sale.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1994-nissan-300zx-300zx-v8-imsa-gts-race-car/?fbclid=IwAR2K28s5UUgTE_tE8FWLIizn2TtgA_r_5twn6trtFAXplDLIpO2XYsaavBk

Also, I have a Ferrari 338LM that is for sale out of my shop. It's currently being semi-restored. Basically I am replacing fuel cell, doing the timing belt, replacing fluids, taking it for a spin around the neighborhood, then pickling it. It's right hand drive, right hand shift, which is pretty interesting. It raced in LeMans in 96. 1 out of 2 built to LM spec. It will be a show piece at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix this year, then sold.

Make sure they do good concrete work, proper drainage, steel mesh, etc.. Nothing like having a great building sitting on a deteriorating slab on grade. My shop is a detached slightly large two car garage with craftsman styling that matches my home. It's a nicely constructed little building, however the floor is downright falling apart. Fixing it is going to be a major pain. I worked in concrete restoration for a 12 years, I shudder at the repairs my floor will need.

I might have 14mm bushings for RFY's in stock. I'm not actively supporting that hardware lately, so I'd have to look, but I had a ton of stuff at one point.

I machined a custom lever that added some leverage. It was a lot of work. I should have bought that arm for $15. That wouldn't have solved the issue with the old lever having fallen off though.

Hang in there. It will be worth it.

The GT750 is a convoluted mess of a motor, but they sure are sweet when they work.

I have the 15L version of that tank and at the car shop we have the 30l one. They both work great. My 15l has seen some shit, including my dog getting caught in the cord and pulling it off the work bench. I had to pull it apart and solder up a few connections to get it to work again, but after at least 5 years of having it, I find it pretty invaluable. It's an extra set of hands cleaning while I get to do other stuff.

I like the Simple Green HD concentrate. It can be found at a Home Depot. I find it works great on castings.

It's too nice.

I use TA for all sorts of cleaning. They use to sell it in gallons for like $4 at the one grocery store near me, that was the ticket. I haven't seen it in a few years though.

It a cheap solution to soak a carb in. It degreases well, it's easy to deal with because it's not dangerous and easy to dispose of.

Is it magical? No, not really. Hot water and dish soap is probably just as good. There are other light acid cleaners that will clean up aluminum too.

I think real Pine-Sol is hardly available these days, the pine oil is no longer used in the product. I'm not sure if pine oil was critical to the effectiveness of the product on carbs or not?

More is better, but too much is just right.

The quality of the parts that John supplies are fantastic, but I'd rather be geared longer. I find it too short stop light to stop light and too short at highway speed.

I am on touch up ports with TM28's and modded DG's. It runs very smoothly at throttle pickup but runs out of steam quick once on the pipe. It's not a high rev build. I modded the DG's to be a mid range pipe and given the smaller carbs it all adds up.

The livery on the Suzuki has got it going on.

My buddy was an engineer on a similar but different concept. I can't recall the name, but they had funding from Ford for a while. The eventual conclusion was that it just had too much mass. They could get good power out of it, but since so many parts were moving it only worked well in a narrow range of power. They eventually lost funding and my friend went to Ford proper.

I've never seen the need to run any volatile/flammable solutions in mine. I have a pretty decent range of things I clean. Usually, simple water and dish soap will do the trick. A presoak and quick scrub goes a long way to making the ultrasonic run work. When I want to shine aluminum I use the Simple Green HD (it's purple). For brass I will use brass solutions, google it, tons of info on that from the gun hobby. For jets, I just put the brass solutions in a glass jar, toss all the jets and other brass bits in there, then submerge that in the tank. That way I don't have to dump the full tank of whatever solution I have in there.

I have a 15L tank. It's good for most everything, especially most motorcycle parts. At the race car shop I now work in (got laid off from my 12 year construction job a month ago due to pending bankruptcy) we have a 30L. The 30L takes longer to warm up and of course uses more solution, but you can do larger parts or more parts at once. Just something to consider when you buy. The reason I say to go larger is because eventually you are going to want to put something large in there. For example, I did a cast iron frying pan once and it came out amazing. Also, the prices have halved since I bought mine. I think I paid nearly $400 for my 15L.

Finally, and as a former safety professional, flammable solvent in an ultrasonic tank is a bomb waiting to happen. Usually, when a flammable solvent is needed, the tanks is "explosion proof." They come with all sorts of controls and systems to help reduce the bomb like features of the system. It's going to be a bad time if you explode your tank in your home shop. I understand for IR8D8R's use it may be required, but at a minimum, run it outside. 

Buy the largest one you can afford. eBay has a ton of great options. I've had one for years now.